Maybe I’m just Bieng a wimp and not hitting it as hard as I should. I’ll get to it again this week.
Pioneer chainsaws
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For which series Walter?
Walter Glover
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Tim, actually for an old Skilshop 1716. But willing to mod most anything that is close wrt oil groove and 5/16" studs
p61 western
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If you can't find any local to you send me a pm. I assume your talking about the p series.
p61 western
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When you think it's hot enough go a little more. The heat is your friend.
p61 western
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Should have skipped down before I replied lol.
I think @Hoggwood has a 1629. Maybe the same plates? Might be able to at east get you a pic if you can't find one.
Walter Glover
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A pic would help for sure
Will try plates that i have
Hoping some stihl or husky would fit as they are readily available
Will try plates that i have
Hoping some stihl or husky would fit as they are readily available
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
OK looks that bar plates from P41 can be made to work. Any husky or stihl like that?
Walter,
I have the original IPL for the PM 340 at work. I will check for you. I am pretty certain they did not have bar plates. I checked with another member who has some in the series and they didn't have plates either. I have the original short bar for the 1629 that has the bar pad paint stuck to it. That lead me to suspect it didn't come with plates, as the saw is essentially new, minus the storage rash. It is the Duo-tronic style Oregon mount bar IIRC. UXL/D196 mounts work dandy with stud shims, though. They did have a very unique spike in the IPL. I enjoyed running mine last fall. Plenty of grunt.
Walter Glover
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Thank you HW
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Can someone point me in the right direction for the fuel tank vent on a 1074?
Mine leaks fuel.from the clutch cover area when I tip the saw. Thinking there should be a duckbill or something to keep that from happening and to allow the fuel tank to pressurize slightly to keep it.from vapor locking.
I am having a hot start problem and the saw runs fine otherwise. My Mac 10-10 did the same thing when the duckbill went bad.
Mine leaks fuel.from the clutch cover area when I tip the saw. Thinking there should be a duckbill or something to keep that from happening and to allow the fuel tank to pressurize slightly to keep it.from vapor locking.
I am having a hot start problem and the saw runs fine otherwise. My Mac 10-10 did the same thing when the duckbill went bad.
If you can't find an OEM one (I think 475489 in the IPL) you can always stuff one of these in the end of the line.
http://www.carbtech21.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CTS-A061022
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So that line behind the clutch cover should have some sort of vent fitting in it on the end? It is currently wide open.
Joab
I'll think of something.
I don't have a 1074 IPL, but if it's like the other smaller P-series -- I've never seen anything except a straight hose coming off of the aluminum fitting that runs between the airbox and the fuel tank. The hose runs back out through a hole in the air box into a cavity behind the clutch cover. I have always thought that the fitting itself had a one-way valve built into it -- the part number on the fitting is 473772 (or 507473772).
Now it's entirely possible I'm just wrong or the 1074 is a little different -- but if it works the way I understand it to, using a one way valve at the end of the hose, like the one suggested, is a good work-around to a defective valve in the fitting. You'd have to pull the fuel line going out back inside the airbox and end it with the valve there. Alternately, something like a Jonsered 490 vent runs inline on fuel hose and would let you still run the hose back out. (If you look around ebay there are also very inexpensive Chinese-made inline check valves available that would work as a cheaper alternative to the Jonsered inline valve.)
Victory!
Went and bought a can of mapp and a new tip today, and a after a couple heat/pulling cycles the FW popped off. new seal in and ready for assembly again. Stihl Scrench works great for piling in the seals on both sides. Thanks for the help guys.
p61 western
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Glad the stubborn flywheel came off for you.
Heat has always worked for me, most come off with the puller and a few encouraging whacks from the hammer but on occasion when necessary I have heated the outer rim of a flywheel with my B tank, when it would melt a 500 F crayon that was a good stopping point, wait a sec or two and hear that ,pop, puller pre tightened up to at least 50 lbs torque. I have not tried an electric heat gun as I doubt it could get the flywheel hot enough, maybe it could but a flywheel will lose heat rapidly due to all the fins on it so I find it needs a hot concentrated heating device.
p61 western
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Yeah I don't think a heat gun will do it either. I have had good luck with even just propane though. The puller is a must though for sure.
Only had to heat a few so far, my B tank is always near by all set to go so I use it more often than digging my propane torch out and finding a cylinder with propane still in it. Puller will remove them most every time, an added whack if necessary, then re tighten and sometimes another wack takes the majority off. Many of these vintage chainsaw flywheels have not been off for many long years.
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