Pioneer chainsaws

[ML12]

I know this is a quality OMC Johnson/Merc replacement. If shipping is to high PM me I'll send it north .
Tom
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/sie...MIrrLH64zD3QIVBEQYCh120wS0EAQYBCABEgKFMPD_BwE

I managed to call around a couple other shops today and finally one of the shops had some. They weren't sure if it was solid core so I went down there after work and sure enough it was!

Thanks for the offer on shipping though, I do appreciate it.

 

[cbfarmall]

I don't think I ever posted this one up. Nice original 750. The clutch cover was swapped as was the cracked top cover. Did seals, new coil, primer, carb kit. Runs beautiful.

The bar is an original Pioneer roller nose along with the chain.

Funny thing, this saw is serial 310003. I have another 750 with 310000.

Chris B.

 

[2stroke_shaman]

I don't think I ever posted this one up. Nice original 750. The clutch cover was swapped as was the cracked top cover. Did seals, new coil, primer, carb kit. Runs beautiful.

The bar is an original Pioneer roller nose along with the chain.

Funny thing, this saw is serial 310003. I have another 750 with 310000.View attachment 675655 View attachment 675656 View attachment 675657

Chris B.

Fine example. I love the original patina on saws. If I paint it I dont want to use it.

 

[p61 western]

Fine example. I love the original patina on saws. If I paint it I dont want to use it.

Lol powder coat and go for it lol. All of mine are actually original patina. Just doing the powder deal on one at the moment.

 

[user15614]

Welcome to the site, and your in the right place for Pioneer help. @pioneerguy600 knows those older saws quite well, and should be able to help you out.

Thank you very much!

 

[user15614]

your 2nd to last pic shows choke lever. there will be a detent where it's open. move it up/down, should feel it.
there is no primer.
toggle switch [same pic] is kill. check for spark, both positions, as switch/on off plate could be backward/upsidedown. if none, points might need attention.
16" is short for these saws, but will get ya started cuttin once ya get it goin.
my 620 got 28" on it.
if ya get spark, check for clean tank & flexible fuel line, put nuff mix in to cover filter, give [+choke] few pulls, watch for fuel in glass bowl.
if ya dont get any, gonna hafta get into findin leaks.
lil squirt o fuel down carb might get it goin.
g'luck.
where in canuckistan are you? if in my area, i'd help if you can come by.

Thank you for the very detailed info. I’m in Oakville.

 

[user15614]

Tha

Check to see if the glass fuel bowl will fill with fuel, the fuel line ,tank filter and felt filter in the fuel bowl base are often problematic in getting these saws to run correctly.The choke switch /handle is mounted on the right side of the carb, the off on switch is also on the right rear of the saw, difficult to say which position, up or down on the switch toggle is on or off as these switches often got turned over previously. Up was usually run and down was most often off position. The points and condenser mounted under the flywheel may still work, lots of times the point contacts need to be polished up to allow electrical charge to flow, the condenser may be all dried out and hold no charge buildup if you cannot get spark to the plug.

Thank you very much!!

 

[rocketnorton]

got a complete 620 a week ago, if ya need anything. stuck solid, but every thing else in decent shape, maybe needin paint...

 

[heimannm]

This one came into my possession recently. I'll clean it up a bit, try to make it run, then put it up on display when the museum opens.





Mark

 

[pioneerguy600]

This one came into my possession recently. I'll clean it up a bit, try to make it run, then put it up on display when the museum opens.

View attachment 676358

View attachment 676359

Mark

Looks nice, that a 600A you have there ,Mark?

 

[heimannm]

I thought it might get your attention.

Mark

 

[ML12]

I am almost finished the restoration. I had to bolt up a bar and chain to see how it looked obviously.



Its come a long, long way from when I got it. I also know its the wrong front wrap handle. I think it came off a 600 series saw. The black wrap on it is bike handle bar tape. The chrome was pretty far gone unfortunately.



I'd like to give a shout out to the members here who helped me out with parts or info @rocketnorton , @cbfarmall , @ray benson

I've also started making a new manual oil pump for it. I figured out the rough dimensions based on the saw and a review of photos/IPLs for the part. The rough machining is done. I just have to round off everything, drill the passages/pump bore and put the parts in.

 

[Sepia]

IEL Pioneer in Thunder Bay, Ontario
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-home-outdoor-other/thunder-bay/antique-pioneer-chainsaw/1386384420

 

[Beavers]

I don't think I ever posted this one up. Nice original 750. The clutch cover was swapped as was the cracked top cover. Did seals, new coil, primer, carb kit. Runs beautiful.

The bar is an original Pioneer roller nose along with the chain.

Funny thing, this saw is serial 310003. I have another 750 with 310000.View attachment 675655 View attachment 675656 View attachment 675657

Chris B.

l have no records of were the production numbers started or stopped. Here is my Data plate

 

[ShipWreckDiver]

I picked up a Pioneer 1074 today. My second Pioneer now, along with my 650 that is going through a full restoration. The seller said it runs but is a bear to start. I got it home, engaged the fast idle, pulled the choke, yanked the cord and it sprang to life immediately. Only two problems, so far;

1)The fast idle doesn't disengage unless I have the air cleaner off and pull the linkage forward manually, beyond where the trigger is able to push it. Is there a way to adjust this?

2)In trying to get the fast idle to disengage I shut it off and when I went to restart it, it first started but then immediately squealed and stalled with a clunk. When I went to yank it again, it felt like I seized the piston. It was frozen and made a clanking sound if I tried to pull it so took the recoil/starter cover off. Was happy the flywheel turns free but the starter mechanism is like nothing I've seen before. The pinion gear fell out when I took the cover off. Apparently that is what jammed. I put it back on and it's a bit stiff/sticky. Looks like Nylon parts, I don't think they want oil. There's a linkage in there that looks to be part of the Easy Arc/decompression system & I'm not sure it's set up right. Anybody familiar with this setup and it's apparent quirks/fixes?

Any help much appreciated

 

[rocketnorton]

i take the decomp rod out of those.
some guys pull start rope out a little when shutting off. dont, with those, or farmsaws. same setup.
also, dont just yank. make sure starter is engaged, then pull.

 

[ShipWreckDiver]

i take the decomp rod out of those.
some guys pull start rope out a little when shutting off. dont, with those, or farmsaws. same setup.
also, dont just yank. make sure starter is engaged, then pull.

Appreciate the info. Never have understood why people pull the starter out while shutting down. Never been in that habit.
"yank" was just an effort to not get overly descriptive.

I feel like the fit between the pinion and the gear on the starter pulley is a bit tight and that it just didn't get pushed back. Again, I'm not sure it should be oiled, maybe graphite powder? Was thinking the plastic may be swelling a bit from years of exposure, maybe a little abrasive powder inside and work it enough to loosen it up?

Any idea about the throttle lock/fast idle button on the handle, is there an adjustment?

I've been able to find an IPL for every other saw out there but the 1074. Is the 1073 roughly similar?

 

[ray benson]

Appreciate the info. Never have understood why people pull the starter out while shutting down. Never been in that habit.
"yank" was just an effort to not get overly descriptive.

I feel like the fit between the pinion and the gear on the starter pulley is a bit tight and that it just didn't get pushed back. Again, I'm not sure it should be oiled, maybe graphite powder? Was thinking the plastic may be swelling a bit from years of exposure, maybe a little abrasive powder inside and work it enough to loosen it up?

Any idea about the throttle lock/fast idle button on the handle, is there an adjustment?

I've been able to find an IPL for every other saw out there but the 1074. Is the 1073 roughly similar?

Check your inbox for the ipl.

 

[rocketnorton]

no fast idle adjust that i know of.
only bad bout lube is chit stickin to it & gummin it up, imo. not a prob, if ya keep it somewhat clean.

 

[ShipWreckDiver]

no fast idle adjust that i know of.
only bad bout lube is chit stickin to it & gummin it up, imo. not a prob, if ya keep it somewhat clean.

There is a throttle lock button that holds the throttle partially open for starting and should kick off when you first pull the throttle. Like kicking down the idle on an old carbureted car after it warms up enough. Most of my Homelites have this. It will release if I manually pull the throttle linkage just a touch further forward than the trigger will.