Pioneer chainsaws

[Jasonrkba]

I got my 1120 running today and couldn't find the bar nuts. Nothing I had laying around would fit. What thread and size do I need?

 

[svk]

In many ways very similar to a Homelite XL-12 but the 11-60 has an auto oiler as well as a manual oiler. 58cc.

Good power and fairly quiet considering the vintage if the diffuser is still in the muffler.

If you look at the very first post in this stickie you will find a mediafire link (in the signature area) that will contain the IPL and repair manual for the 11-60 and many more Pioneer models.

Thank you.

What are these worth, ballpark as a complete saw, either running or not running?

 

[fossil]

I don't know. I don't think there's much on a market for them in Canada. Not sure about your area.

 

[fossil]

I got my 1120 running today and couldn't find the bar nuts. Nothing I had laying around would fit. What thread and size do I need?

They should be fine thread 5/16" -24

 

[Jasonrkba]

They should be fine thread 5/16" -24

Thank you sir.

 

[Beavers]

Anyone have a photo of a clutch puller on a pioneer 600 series saw?
I think I will have to make one.
Thanks

Here is my Puller. lt works great. lt would do the job of pulling the clutch spider off . just lock the crank and use a hand wrench or Air tool. some can be harder than others because the shaft is keyed and corrosion builds up in key way especially if the old clutch has never been pulled before.
No heat has ever been used by me pulling these clutches.

Good luck!

 

[Beavers]

The puller is cranked down hard. I'll try a little more heat and if that doesn't work I'll check to see how it's doing at Christmas.

Tim this Pioneer puller l use to remove those Pesky flywheels without much trouble. these are all the tools l use but sometimes l will use a impact to tighten screw . lt has been mention before here that the trick is to hit the puller bolt head because that will release flywheel. l never use heat . The Pioneer puller in pic is 1/2" thick plate. l screw the 2 bolts all the into flywheel threads. The odd time l might tap the end of that puller and find it releases the flywheel.

Hopefully you can draw something from my expierences and good luck to all.

 

[fossil]

Tim this Pioneer puller l use to remove those Pesky flywheels without much trouble. these are all the tools l use but sometimes l will use a impact to tighten screw . lt has been mention before here that the trick is to hit the puller bolt head because that will release flywheel. l never use heat . The Pioneer puller in pic is 1/2" thick plate. l screw the 2 bolts all the into flywheel threads. The odd time l might tap the end of that puller and find it releases the flywheel.

Hopefully you can draw something from my expierences and good luck to all.

Thanks Brian.

I've tried everything I know so far. A lot of pressure on a forged steel steering wheel puller that doesn't defect one bit. As tight as a butterfly impact gun will take it, penetrating oil, smacking the puller bolt while under pressure and heat. No luck so far. I am trying some ammonia which is good for releasing rusted areas in case there are any.

No luck. I'm just going to leave it under pressure for awhile and see what happens. The seals need replacing so it needs to give up sooner or later., I'm in no big hurry.

I left the last P41 for a couple of months before it finally gave up.

Except for a Jonsereds 801 that was stuck with retaining compound on both sides, I never had any issue at all except these two P41's. They are usually a 15 minute job gathering the puller and putting it on and pulling the flywheel.

Patience will win the day as I doubt many of us need the saw we are working on. I need it like another stray hole in the head.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The best penetrating fluid known to man is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and transmission fluid, it will get into places most other penetrating fluids fail at. This has even been tested at laboratories and is a proven fact. It works even better if the temps are in the warm category.

 

[Acornhill]

The best penetrating fluid known to man is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and transmission fluid, it will get into places most other penetrating fluids fail at. This has even been tested at laboratories and is a proven fact. It works even better if the temps are in the warm category.

PB BLASTER


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[fossil]

The best penetrating fluid known to man is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and transmission fluid, it will get into places most other penetrating fluids fail at. This has even been tested at laboratories and is a proven fact. It works even better if the temps are in the warm category.

PB BLASTER


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I've tried PB blaster. No luck with that so far.
I'll give the acetone and tranny fluid a try.

Thanks guys.

 

[pioneerguy600]

PB BLASTER


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No Sir.

 

[Jasonrkba]

I swear by Arokroil but I've never tried the 50/50 mix.

 

[Jasonrkba]

They should be fine thread 5/16" -24

Just for people searching this in the future it was indeed 5/16" -24.

 

[fossil]

The best penetrating fluid known to man is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and transmission fluid, it will get into places most other penetrating fluids fail at. This has even been tested at laboratories and is a proven fact. It works even better if the temps are in the warm category.

Thanks Jerry. That tranny / acetone mix worked.

I thought I would have a good look to see why the P41's stick so hard.

For a quick measure I used a protractor and the P41 crankshaft only has about a 5 degree taper.
Another saw I measured with a visually more typical taper was about 10 degrees.

That shallow angle would allow a much tighter jam fit with equal torque values.

I'm not sure if the flywheel was ever off this saw but I will be carefully torquing it to spec when it goes back on.

Just waiting for the seals to get it back together and cutting with torque beyond it's displacement like that model does.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thanks Jerry. That tranny / acetone mix worked.

I thought I would have a good look to see why the P41's stick so hard.

For a quick measure I used a protractor and the P41 crankshaft only has about a 5 degree taper.
Another saw I measured with a visually more typical taper was about 10 degrees.

That shallow angle would allow a much tighter jam fit with equal torque values.

I'm not sure if the flywheel was ever off this saw but I will be carefully torquing it to spec when it goes back on.

Just waiting for the seals to get it back together and cutting with torque beyond it's displacement like that model does.

Any discoloration or pitting on the crank stub? You are so correct about the low angle of taper, it really does make clutch and flywheels more difficult to remove. The acetone and ATF mix is an old trick I learned from fellow machinists and engine fitters in the marine trade here where a lot of taper bores are used for fit up, it works on very tight tolerance taper fits and that about sums it up.

 

[fossil]

Nothing on the crank or FW bore that would indicate there was any corrosion. Maybe it was just cranked down a little too hard at the factory.

I made a little dam from plumbers putty around the FW hub to plug the key slot and so I could have a little reservoir to hold more acetone / tranny mix.

I don't remember what the shaft taper was on the P51 but it popped off like any other saw

 

[pioneerguy600]

Happy to hear it came off and there is no corrosion not that it would cause much concern, they have a ton of holding power and never seen a stripped or galled one but have seen many with some corrosion from moisture created mostly from condensation.

 

[Acornhill]

Thanks Jerry. That tranny / acetone mix worked.

I thought I would have a good look to see why the P41's stick so hard.

For a quick measure I used a protractor and the P41 crankshaft only has about a 5 degree taper.
Another saw I measured with a visually more typical taper was about 10 degrees.

That shallow angle would allow a much tighter jam fit with equal torque values.

I'm not sure if the flywheel was ever off this saw but I will be carefully torquing it to spec when it goes back on.

Just waiting for the seals to get it back together and cutting with torque beyond it's displacement like that model does.

I would like to see the P41 in action, please post picks when you start cutting that big wood, glad you are moving forward


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[fossil]

I would like to see the P41 in action, please post picks when you start cutting that big wood, glad you are moving forward


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Will do but right now I don't have anything worthy of big wood. Just some soft pine about 12" in diameter.