Pioneer chainsaws

[pioneerguy600]

Its common for the carb adapters to crack on the Pioneer saws, seen many like this. They can be repaired with JB Weld but need to be soaked out well in alcohol or acetone before the repair. For a final clean I boil them in water with a touch of soap, blow dry.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yes but when I tighten it down it locks up.

The clutch

Here is a couple pictures to show what im dealing with. This was someone's parts saw that im reviving so it may be missing or even have the wrong parts so any help is greatly appreciated.View attachment 747653 View attachment 747654 View attachment 747655

Jason, I think I see two washers behind the clutch drum, there should only be one in the back, one inside the drum behind the clutch carrier and some models like the 40 had one just behind the locking nut while others had none, that washer was not always used as long as the nut tightened the clutch carrier up tight to the step in the crankshaft. Difficult to tell if all your parts are original but the clutch shoes look to be in the correct orientation with the bevel in the trailing position. When the locking nut is torqued down the drum and drive rim should be able to float in and out on the crank stub a good 1/8" or more, if its binding then there is a problem with the assembly or parts compatibility.

 

[Jasonrkba]

I believe that is the oil pump sticking out of the cover you see but I'll check in a few minutes after my morning coffee.

 

[Jasonrkba]

The other drum fits the shaft but it is smaller than the clutch in diameter. The one that was on it fits without the washer that goes between the drum and clutch so im thinking I have some mismatch parts.

 

[p61 western]

The other drum fits the shaft but it is smaller than the clutch in diameter. The one that was on it fits without the washer that goes between the drum and clutch so im thinking I have some mismatch parts.

Might just need a thinner washer to be good.

 

[Jasonrkba]

I matched up with my p40 andd the smaller of the two drums match. I'll see if I have a thinner washer. As is the teeth on the clutch do not marry up with the crank.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Took the clutch apart and milled the core down a little thinner. BINGO! Also milled down the drum to give it 1/16-1/8 play. Just waiting for the JB to cure so I can torque down the carb adapter and do a carborator rebuild.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Excuse the mess.

 

[lil171]

Well.... Just when I thought it was over. I went to replace the fuel line and had a couple of mixed feelings. I was happy that there was only one fuel line. However, I was stumpped when I went to try and replace the line in the tank, a couple questions had arose. How in the world does one replace the line in the tank? Since I could not see the connection in the tank, I looked in the top carburetor area. I see a silver fitting where I had replace the line to the carburetor that had hexagon sides. So I tried to remove the fitting, thinking the line was attached on the other side. Well, it is VERY tight. Also, I coule not find a wrench suitable to fit the hex. Would anyone here happn to know if I have to remove that fitting to replace the tank line? And if so would you also happen to know what size wrench is required to do it? I tried 3/8, 10mm, 9mm without any luck. A crescent wrench has no room to turn in there either. The piece I am asking about is being pointed to with my screwdriver.

And just a couple other quick questions if I may. In the same picture mentioned above, there is a brass 'nipple' also near the fitting (just above the middle of the screwdriver). There was nothing hooked up to it. Is that correct, or is there supposed to be another line going somewhere? And lastly, Can someone please verify that the carburetor pictured is a Tillitson HU-15 series so I can order a gasket kit.

Thank you for all your help and time again, it is greatly appreciated.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Ok guys. I can't remember what this wire goes to? P41S.

 

[chainmaster]

That,s your ground wire there is a ground screw on the side or just ground any where for your kill switch to work you will need to ground this wire

 

[Jasonrkba]

The wire lines up perfect with the carb adapter so that's where I put it?

 

[chainmaster]

yes sir

 

[Jasonrkba]

OMG! That thing sounds good. Brought back from the dead!

 

[Jasonrkba]

...

 

[Jasonrkba]

The on off switch was broken so I sourced one out of my homelite pile, had to do some machining to get the clutch to work, lots of missing nuts and bolts, only available Piston was a little red Barn, I had to do some filing inside of it so the connecting rod would fit properly, probably 10-12 hours of hand sanding salvaging the cylinder, had to replace some old brittle wiring on the coil, clean like crazy, fabricate a bucking spike, clean and rebuild carborator, repair cracked carborator adapter, new seals and all gaskets, new bar and chain. I also noticed a crack forming on the bottom down by the handle. I dremeled it out, cleaned and used the JB weld steel bond stuff. It came out nice..... I think that about covers it.

 

[lil171]

Quite the work you did there. Good job, and it looks great.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Ohh and a half inch of tar looking crap in the bottom of the tank. It's clean as a whistle now.

 

[Jasonrkba]

I have two p20's on deck.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Well I put it in wood today and for a couple minutes I was as giddy as a school girl..... Then the clutch exploded. So I'll have to source one. But it is stronger than any other said have. Now I haven't tried my 925 yet but it's definitely stronger than anything else I have.