Make sure you seal up that bar stud (I assume on the 750).
Pioneer chainsaws
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ML12
ArboristSite Guru
I finally got the piston rings in the mail so I could finish off the 700. (they took 2 months to arrive from Greece, although Canadian Customs is likely the culprit there...)
I found a cracked tie strap on that chain, so test cuts will have to wait.
Does the fact that this saw doesn't have the extra plastic chip guard make it an earlier production one?
It's also missing the foot pad, but I don't think i'll miss it.
The oil cap is also clearly from a much earlier pioneer, I've swapped one on from a 650 for the time being until I stumble across a correct one in my spares.
The intake tract is horrific mess on these things, gaps everywhere for saw dust to get in, I likely won't run this one much. I've got the 1750 and 610 for when I feel like running a big pioneer from this era.
I found a cracked tie strap on that chain, so test cuts will have to wait.
Does the fact that this saw doesn't have the extra plastic chip guard make it an earlier production one?
It's also missing the foot pad, but I don't think i'll miss it.
The oil cap is also clearly from a much earlier pioneer, I've swapped one on from a 650 for the time being until I stumble across a correct one in my spares.
The intake tract is horrific mess on these things, gaps everywhere for saw dust to get in, I likely won't run this one much. I've got the 1750 and 610 for when I feel like running a big pioneer from this era.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
While I had the 700 out, I figured I should drag out the rest of my large (100cc+) pioneer saws and take a family photo. I guess the obvious saw I'm missing from this line-up is an RA, but I will find one someday. That and a 750.
And yes, as i'm sure some of you have noticed, the 650 is missing a carburetor, that's because its on the 1750.... and I haven't got around to replacing it.
And yes, as i'm sure some of you have noticed, the 650 is missing a carburetor, that's because its on the 1750.... and I haven't got around to replacing it.
i might know a guy...
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Does your 750 have the automatic oil pump?
It has a manual oiler, I checked out the IPL on 700 shows a plug in the oiler and this 750 does not have the plug so maybe that will do it. There is a small hole inside the crankcase that could supply pressure.The Handle bar is rusted I was thinking of maybe getting it powder coated, have you remover one of those rubber Handle grips before. Or get it sand blasted and paint it.
Never seen a 700 or 750 with a auto-oiler. The cases were set up for it but never machined. That would have been a nice early advantage for Pioneer in the mid 60s.
My 1770 doesn't have an auto oiler either.
My 1770 doesn't have an auto oiler either.
That cover doesn't show up in any 700 IPLs. Thinking the 750 started getting them in a translucent white plastic and then black plastic showed up later.
The replacement grips were glued on. Look for a seam. You may be able to peel it off. Those grips don't ever seem to come loose, however.
Putting bearings and seals in, and putting case together, any info or tips about which side first? Bearings in case or on crank first?
I have no manual or information on this one only the IPL.
Last 750 I did was bearings on crank first and then heat the cases to assemble. I took the dowel pins out and tapped them in after starting all the screws.
Good idea with the dowel pins, I will try that.
Thanks
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Heat is your friend on these cases. I set one bearing on the crank and the other side in the case I think, and I used a lot of heat, so much that I had to wear welding gloves to hang onto the cases.
Otis B Knotknocker
ArboristSite Lurker
Howdy Brian,
Ya know I cuss my chainsaws, the trees, the boss, the people I work with, the weather, and so much more just to earn a living each day. I plan to do my damnedest not to try prying cases apart for a few extra bucks. But I do value knowledge and appreciate your help.
As always Otis.
Does anyone have any good tips on the best way to repair these reed blocks? Would a dab of JB Weld do the trick?
Try Rottman Sales. https://www.rottmansales.com/
Yours is opened up a fair bit. I have used a fine tip soldering iron to wipe over fine cracks but those look like gaps. I think I've heard some guys used JB Weld successfully but be sure it's well adhered if it's on the inside. It might not be pretty if it broke loose and made it up the transfers.
Rottman Sales that Poge suggested quite often has old Pioneer stuff. and are reasonable. Your block is close to done.
Thanks. I’ll check with Rottman.
This one was actually supposed to be a replacement. It a joke that someone would even list and sell this piece of junk.
This one was actually supposed to be a replacement. It a joke that someone would even list and sell this piece of junk.
If you mind me asking, was it an ebay buy on the cracked block?
It was.
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