Pioneer chainsaws

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Many of the small cc Pioneer saws came equipped with 3/8" chains, the powerheads were reed valve induction and had more torque than piston ported saws make, they could pull the bigger cutters really well.
This is something I was unaware of, all my small frame pioneers run a .325 - they are some of my favourite saws. Plenty of torque, I use an 18" bar on most but have a few 14s and 16s.

I may look at putting a 3/8 drive on a couple of them in the near future now that I know this
 
Basic question gents:

This 1200A I have recently attained leaks fuel from the fuel cap. Based on the IPL it seems I am missing a gasket under the fuel cap.

I'll just make my own....can anyone advise approx gasket thickness I would need. Probably doesn't really matter, but just thought i'd ask before buying a cork sheet
Duckbill valve. I made one for an old poulan out of a flexible bottle cap off a seafoam container.
They are pretty thin silicone usually, can't say specifically what thickness but it is pliable

Hope this helps some
 
I'm referring to this gasket in yellow..once again I could make it out of any thickness I guess but I thought I'd ask.

View attachment 1177592
Ah, gotcha. Even a plumbing o-ring would work there
Are you using gasket material, or something like form-a-gasket?
Silicone would work too it's flat like a hose gasket.
No particular reason I am asking, just out of honest curiosity
 
Hadn't thought too hard about it....I was going to either just cut out a cork gasket or grab an o-ring.

I'm just happy that this saw runs well enough as this is my first old Pioneer saw and parts are few and far between (especially in Australia).
 
This is something I was unaware of, all my small frame pioneers run a .325 - they are some of my favourite saws. Plenty of torque, I use an 18" bar on most but have a few 14s and 16s.

I may look at putting a 3/8 drive on a couple of them in the near future now that I know this
The .325 chain cuts better on high RPM saws whereas the 3/8 cuts fine on older lower RPM saws back a bit further in time most saws ran larger chain types.
 
That doesn't sound like any torrington number. Should begin with a B or J. Got a picture. The other option is to measure bearing. Pin diameter, OD and width.

I have been known to take clear pictures of the bearing numbers with my cell phone camera and zoom in that way to read the numbers.
 
Wrist pin bearings were commonly Torrington but your best bet is to remove the bearing you have and check to see if there is a makers name on the end of the cage.

Shouldn't have to remove the bearing from the rod to read it but you will probably need to clean it well. Every Pioneer I've take apart had a Torrington in it. Granted, most are older than this P21.

Looks like that saw shares the bearing with most of the small Pioneers 427662.
 
Got the P50 running over the weekend. First thing I did was remove the kill switch and it ran on prime. Replaced the kill switch and poured some fresh fuel into it and it ran, idled, and oiled perfectly. I will be putting a bar onto this one and probably get a good feel for it, but I love the snappiness of the old reed saws.
 
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