Pioneer Holiday 1100G

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Yeah I don't think I will use this set up eny more I will have to find a 404 chain and sprocket I guess I have some drums from when I got the saw that might work do you want some pics of them I have some with out the washer on them will they work
 
I think this will be better drum for my saw and I do not have to change my bar and chain from 3/8 and the 8 tooth was little to fast for my likes let me know if this will work when you can thanks.
 
I think this will be better drum for my saw and I do not have to change my bar and chain from 3/8 and the 8 tooth was little to fast for my likes let me know if this will work when you can thanks.
Yes, that 7 tooth drive is what most all Pioneer 1100 series saws came with from factory. Would be a fine setup with a new chain, don`t use the old chain, the drive links are badly damaged on it.
 
Still waiting for the drum, l I wanted to know if I can rpm test with out the chain and bar on there to see what the max rpm is, I have one of those tipped ones will this work
 
RPM is done/set with the bar and chain on as that is where the working resistance to the engine is set at, an unloaded engine would rev much easier and would need to be reset once the bar and chain is mounted to get the correct RPM set to working conditions with the chain and bar on offering resistance or load to the engine..
 
Got the drum in the mail looks good and it is 3/8 drive just got it on and it work very well smooth as butter I have a inch pound torque wrench what should I torque the nut down to
 
She's all good to go made a few test cuts and its way better there is not chain drag or clutch knocking and the oiler is better because of the 7 tooth drum yes I did use a new chain on this one.
 

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Got the drum in the mail looks good and it is 3/8 drive just got it on and it work very well smooth as butter I have a inch pound torque wrench what should I torque the nut down to
Clutch nut torque 18 - 22 ft lbs.
She's all good to go made a few test cuts and its way better there is not chain drag or clutch knocking and the oiler is better because of the 7 tooth drum yes I did use a new chain on this one.
She's all good to go made a few test cuts and its way better there is not chain drag or clutch knocking and the oiler is better because of the 7 tooth drum yes I did use a new chain on this one.
Surprising when the components all match properly how nice they all fit together and run smooth.
 
Know where I can get side seals.. I think it's got one going out when I pick it up shutting down I do not know why that is my bess guess is a side seal going out dose the same.thing when I turn it on it's side starts to die
 
If it revved up when turned on its side then that may be a bad seal causing an air leak, stalling out is most often too much fuel as in fuel puddling in the intake tract then flowing in too quickly when tipped or turned, try leaning out the L side first at idle.
 
Ok I will try that and see if that works, what is a good carb tuning lean with the idle set low or rich with the idle turned in to idle the same I think lean would hurt it on idle that's what I have heard if you run a saw lean it will damage I looked at the rings in side of the bore through the exhaust port and it all look real good
 
Tune it so that the engine does not load up at idle, that is what I mean about leaning out the setting at idle, when the engine will transition up to WOT snappily without bogging or studdering then it is likely tuned correctly for idle, not too rich or lean.
 

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