B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
Did you get a chance to measure the thickness of the outer edge of your wheel last night?
Please check my square grinder wheel specs - considering a cbn wheel
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Did you get a chance to measure the thickness of the outer edge of your wheel last night?
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
Ok, I measured my wheel and this is what I think is best. Your height measurement was good but I'd like to see the top angle at 15. Anyway, it's all easily changeable now that you have a good drawling.
View attachment 280292
View attachment 280292
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
In looking at my current wheel and thinking about that angle I realized that I don't always dress the whole big bevel with the built in dresser (cause it's a crappy quality dresser compared to a good one - I've posted about this before. Even went to Madsens and picked out best looking silvey dressers and they still are poor quality).
I have a good quality norton dressing stick I use to rough the big bevel in because it is so much faster and leaves a better surface. Then I periodically true the outer part of the top bevel with the built in dresser to make sure the angle is what I want.
Bottom line, my current wheel is not flat the whole bevel so I am not sure whether I want 15 or 16. I will go out to the shop right now and true the wheel with the built in dresser and measure it then as it will be flat.
I'll look for a used blue wheel in my parts drawer and if I can find one I'll send it to you to fool with.
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
I dug through my drawer of grinding wheels and so far haven't found a used blue one to give you. Seems I have one somewhere and if I find it I"ll pop it to you to play with (and keep).
I redressed the wheel using the built in dressers. Now that top angle is closer to 15 than 16 so that's a good call. that was the intent of my post, to get a reality check.
Does 7.25 inches overal width cause you a problem?
My current thinking is what you have drawn except two changes.
overal diameter 7.25 inches (I like where this puts things on my grinder although 7 inches would work too)
heighth of edge .085. (More comfortable with this as I seldom dress it past .080)
And I am leaning toward 100 grit. Figure if the soft metal requires it I'll just use a cleaning stick.
In my experience this companies cbn wheels are a bit aggressive at first but then settle down to a surface that stays pretty constant. Talking hardish m42, though.
Is there a way for me to change those numbers in a tool like photoshop? I'd like to leverage all you work.....
I redressed the wheel using the built in dressers. Now that top angle is closer to 15 than 16 so that's a good call. that was the intent of my post, to get a reality check.
Does 7.25 inches overal width cause you a problem?
My current thinking is what you have drawn except two changes.
overal diameter 7.25 inches (I like where this puts things on my grinder although 7 inches would work too)
heighth of edge .085. (More comfortable with this as I seldom dress it past .080)
And I am leaning toward 100 grit. Figure if the soft metal requires it I'll just use a cleaning stick.
In my experience this companies cbn wheels are a bit aggressive at first but then settle down to a surface that stays pretty constant. Talking hardish m42, though.
Is there a way for me to change those numbers in a tool like photoshop? I'd like to leverage all you work.....
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srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
That would be cool if you could find a ceramic blue stone for me to try.
Like I said before my wheel is at 7.25" and I'm just now starting to get the top plate angle I want. I have the slide block backed all the way out but I guess the new block I made added about 1/4" in the mix. 7.25" would work but I'd be more comfortable with 7", there is a lot of room to go forward with the slide.
A height of .085" would be ok. My stone is at .1" now and I don't have a problem getting into 3/8 chain. Before I dressed the bottom of the stone true with a dressing stick I was getting into the tie straps a bit more than I liked. Maybe we can settle on .09" and this should even be able to do .325 and 3/8 lopro if you wanted to, it might be a little short to do .404 without a second operation of cleaning the gullets.
I can change the drawling for you or you can use paint or power point to edit the numbers. You may want to put dimensions on it for the coating widths.
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
Okay I'll go with 7 inches overall diameter in case the wheel becomes of interest to you, and compromise at .09 on the side.
I'd love it if you'd change that number as I would have to screw around with it for too long to figure out the best way to change it and I am already screwing around with too many other things (as I know you are too).
I may just put the coating widths in text as I am not sure the best way to add it into the drawing.
Who know where this will go, but it could be useful. Always looking for faster, better ways to do things.
My Pro Sharp won't do anything but 3/8 full sized and .404. Too bad as I run alot of .325, 3/8 lp (and .043 gauge and 1/4) and think a nk .325 square cutter might be killer for certain things.
I will definitely take another look for a blue wheel to give you, pretty sure I have one I can send somewhere.
Also I'll say I find my 510 does a great job of cleaning the gullets in a square chain, esp with the 1/8 wheel. Match the top angle, set for right distance and depth and then pop pop pop it's done. Esp nice on long chains, like my 183 dl chains. And it does a fair job of setting the height of the rakes.
edit: actually all I have to do is erase the 5 from the .095 and I can use that drawing.
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srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
No sure I understand the plating spec.
And are you saying that your grinder cuts with the bottom of the wheel, too?
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
The bottoms cuts a little. If you don't have it plated then you are solely relying on that corner to cut the gullet. If you came back into the tooth at a little lower height (adjusting the beak) such that the gullet needed to be ground down a little more, chances are the corner would skip above the gullet. If there was no plating there would be nothing to grind it down a little to get your beak correct.
B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
That a really good point, and why I didnt' want to rush too fast. I am in the middle of too many things and didn't take the time to really think about it yet.
With my PS I am often adjusting the "height" screw as I grind dynamically and you are right that sometimes I want to raise the cutter relative to the wheel to make sure the corners are meeting.
So in that case the wheel cuts on the bottom. I've thought about that fact in the past, but spaced on that fact yesterday.
I am inside icing my knees right now (between knee surgeries) and in a bit I'll got out to the shop and ponder that some more including how wide the bottom coating needs to be on my grinder.
Thanks again for the catch, not my style to rush carelessly into things but a friend has been pushing me to come up with the specs and I have not focused on the issue like I should. My bad.
The goal is best specs for something actually useful first time around...
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B_Turner
Addicted to ArboristSite
First I looked at my stone and it's clear I don't use it much on the bottom, no visible wear/markings. Has to do with the way I usually clean gullets and adjust the cutter.
But I agree in certain cases cutting on the bottom is important however little it happens.
It looks like around 3/8 of an inch band from the outside bottom corner should be sufficient for worse case with 3/8 chain (just coincidence). That would be cutter ground back to shorterst length and gullet not previously cleaned out.
Is that what you are seeing on your setup?
But I agree in certain cases cutting on the bottom is important however little it happens.
It looks like around 3/8 of an inch band from the outside bottom corner should be sufficient for worse case with 3/8 chain (just coincidence). That would be cutter ground back to shorterst length and gullet not previously cleaned out.
Is that what you are seeing on your setup?
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
I figured 3/8 would be the worst case scenario.
Philbert Ty
Del can you please respost any of the stilh USG stuff I am looking to get or have made a square ground wheels for my USG . I hope you can help and Ty up front.
Ty
Chris
Ty
Chris
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
B_Turner did you ever get a wheel made? If so, how is it holding up?
Does anyone have the specs for square grind for the USG grinder
I am wondering the same thing about a cbn wheel. My prosharp took a dive onto the floor and I am starting to get it working again. Replaced the motor and had the arbor machined to make it true again. Had a bad wobble after the meeting with the floor. Now I think I need to square the motor / wheel to the chain slide. I keep touching the tie straps on the left hand cutters. I can see the wheel is leaning to one side more than the other.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
I'm glad the stone runs true now. You'll have to shim the motor such that it's square to the chain holder, you might have to move the table in/out to make sure it's lining up with the center of the wheel.
That's a sad story about your Prosharp with parts hard to find.
Wish you the best with getting it back to working order.
Got it working and not shaking now. Just need to square the motor to the chain holder. Was able to use a Simington motor with an adapter plate. Thanks to Madsens. The mounting plate is fully adjustable with 3/8 wrench.
The new motor did come with LED light.
The new motor did come with LED light.
