Pole saw

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Noobs with motorized pole saws are hard on trees.

If they can reach it, they want to cut it, whether it needs it or not. Bad cut angles, extra danger by cutting from below, and torn/peeled bark.

I'd agree that you should start with a silky pole saw. If it's too big to cut with that, then you should probably go up there and make a good cut with a chainsaw, or rethink why you need to make a cut that large low on the trunk in the first place.

I've made it several years without really needing a motorized pole saw (there have been a few times i wished i had one). Lots of better ways to spend six hundred bucks.
 
Noobs with motorized pole saws are hard on trees.

If they can reach it, they want to cut it, whether it needs it or not. Bad cut angles, extra danger by cutting from below, and torn/peeled bark.

I'd agree that you should start with a silky pole saw. If it's too big to cut with that, then you should probably go up there and make a good cut with a chainsaw, or rethink why you need to make a cut that large low on the trunk in the first place.

I've made it several years without really needing a motorized pole saw (there have been a few times i wished i had one). Lots of better ways to spend six hundred bucks.
Word brother. You couldnt have said that any better I dont think. I still think one could be handy for big drop hitches with the bucket stood straight up-you know to finish the back cut.
 
Ok here's the real numbers available to me:

Stihl:
HT 101 $599

Ok now I hate this thread even more. Not only was my brand new ht101 (SN 274282339) just stolen only a month after I bought it, but it was $750 with tax. :chainsaw:

Since the thing is registered to me and still under warranty is there any way to flag it as stolen in the stihl database? Maybe some dumbass will take it in for service.
 
Noobs with motorized pole saws are hard on trees.

If they can reach it, they want to cut it, whether it needs it or not. Bad cut angles, extra danger by cutting from below, and torn/peeled bark.

I'd agree that you should start with a silky pole saw. If it's too big to cut with that, then you should probably go up there and make a good cut with a chainsaw, or rethink why you need to make a cut that large low on the trunk in the first place.

I've made it several years without really needing a motorized pole saw (there have been a few times i wished i had one). Lots of better ways to spend six hundred bucks.

I agree a good manual polesaw is useful much more often. But for some things, raising big pin oaks for example, they are like 10x as fast.

Making good pruning cuts with a polesaw is very hard though and takes a lot of strength, stamina, and skill. Most people who use them don't have a clue.
 
I agree a good manual polesaw is useful much more often. But for some things, raising big pin oaks for example, they are like 10x as fast.

Making good pruning cuts with a polesaw is very hard though and takes a lot of strength, stamina, and skill. Most people who use them don't have a clue.
Thats where the expierience thing comes into play again. Many a time I've had guys bigger than me struggle to hand me up three sections, its like the blades all shaky and seems to hardly make it to me. Watching an inexpierienced guy try to cut with one is real painful too, it just looks so hopeless sometimes.
 
OK OK OK. I think you guys have talked me into it. I'll get the damn stihl. I know I'll love it. So now,,, HT 101for $599 or HT 131 for $649??? Hurry and let me know, I'm going shopping tomorrow.

PS. What is the protocol for unsticking a pinched pole pruner 16 ft in the air? I know it's going to happen to me sooner or later.

Yeah, dont pinch the bar :laugh:

Ive seen ALOT of people make too large of an undercut and pinch with those... Including landscrapers cutting 1-2" limbs from the bottom and expecting them not to pinch. If you score the bark//cambium//sapwood then cut from the top down like a foot and a half out from your undercut the bark wont tear then you can make a nice pruning cut. Smaller limbs of course..

You wont get a polesaw out of a bad pinch on a larger limb without another polesaw or going up to cut it out. Time saver turns into a time waster in a hurry.

Its all about your positioning, its not easy to make good cuts with those sometimes. I see alot of people cutting the trunk or larger limbs leaving ugly scars. Really they require more skill to use than a ground saw , definitely more strength and stamina.

Get the Stihl if your a professional. We run huskies at work.. Except for stihl climbers and polesaws. Showing up to a job with homo equpiments kinda degrading.
 
Ive made some big cuts with a manual polesaw. I just pretend im givin it to a babe and shes sayin "Dont stop! Harder!"... Reallly really helps to ignore the fact my arms & shoulders are on fire :laugh:
Yeah whatever works right. Lol. Marvin 330 is a good blade but they bend easy and have a little too much hook to em for some stuff. I just bought the marvin version of the ARS turbo cut with the gullets. Seems to cut good but a little bulky. Does anyone know if the real ARS ones are better with regards to this?
 
Not that I'm trying beat an almost dead horse here..but..which is the better tool for a guy starting out on my own..the power pruner..or the silky pole saw..I just did some trimming work this morning, and was thinking I would have been done about an hr earlier if I'd had one or the other..
Thanks for the help guys..if it wasn't for this place..I'd be hopelessly lost in the sauce..LOL

SEMPER FI!
 
Not that I'm trying beat an almost dead horse here..but..which is the better tool for a guy starting out on my own..the power pruner..or the silky pole saw..I just did some trimming work this morning, and was thinking I would have been done about an hr earlier if I'd had one or the other..
Thanks for the help guys..if it wasn't for this place..I'd be hopelessly lost in the sauce..LOL

SEMPER FI!


nothing wrong with a 4 pole bag that can hold your saw and pruner head.

if i could i'd have 5 poles and the 12-16ft power saw.

you cant really set lines with a power saw but its easy cutting bigger wood with them.

i know that didnt help at all WM but maybe start with the pole setup and then get the power head if you really need it? lol
 
Not that I'm trying beat an almost dead horse here..but..which is the better tool for a guy starting out on my own..the power pruner..or the silky pole saw..I just did some trimming work this morning, and was thinking I would have been done about an hr earlier if I'd had one or the other..
Thanks for the help guys..if it wasn't for this place..I'd be hopelessly lost in the sauce..LOL

SEMPER FI!

Well, inherenly the manual pole saw.
If your in shape its fine, on small cuts it can be just about as quick. A motorized pole saw doesnt replace a good pole pruner for alot of work. When you discover if you have the need for the motorized one or not you can keep your eyes out for a used Husky, Stihl, or Echo. Craigslist is your friend.

The poulans cheap enough to experiment with, if you dont break it you can recover some of your moneys too.
 
Ok OD..I've read here posts here a few days ago about the jamieson pole saws etc..which is more practical in the long run..the silky..or the jamieson..I'm not going to do anything remotley close to utility lines unless I got on with a company that actually does that type of work and know it inside and out..so electrical hazards are not a concern..please..just a no $hit opinion is what I'm after please..
 
nothing wrong with a 4 pole bag that can hold your saw and pruner head.

if i could i'd have 5 poles and the 12-16ft power saw.

you cant really set lines with a power saw but its easy cutting bigger wood with them.

i know that didnt help at all WM but maybe start with the pole setup and then get the power head if you really need it? lol

You set lines with a pole pruner? :laugh:
Ive seen them used to snag a line out of reach, pull hangers & such but not really set lines. Interesting.
Goes on the same lines of what I was saying though.. the pole pruners a usefull tool all around.

Id only suggest maybe a jameson fiberglass setup instead of the silky aluminum one. From a purely saftey point of view.**
I missed the last post. I think the silky is cheaper, definitely lighter and will probably cut faster. Do they offer a pole clip head for the silky? Thats another thing to consider . A Jameson setups more profesional, more durable id wager, more versatile, i think the silkys cheaper and gets the job done just great too.
 
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You set lines with a pole pruner? :laugh:

ive set a line in a tree with 5 8ft's before.....using the polesaw head but actually using the hook part of it to hold the rope. just flip it over the branch and reach around the other side with the hook and pull it back down. lol


WM. the yellow jameson poles are good enough. i actually prefer the wooden poles myself but if they are old and not ever really taken care of look out for the splinters. sand them down and oil them up.

and from this site ive heard nothing but good thing about the silky. but for that kinda loot i'm thinking you can buy a few more jameson poles just in case you drop it from the tree or run it over and they break....yup. ive seen that too. lol


like i said though. that 4 pole bag setup with the 2 heads in it is the perfect pole saw combo. everything together and in its place. my opinion of course.
 
Clever way to set a line in something like a pin oak with jungle fever, or any dense tree thatd make a throwbag an exercise in patience.

The fiberglass poles are a bit heavier(IMO never weighed them) but I tend to prefer them over wood. Pretty much for the splinter reason.

Ive seen a half dozen jameson poles get hit by oncoming traffic after flying out of a locker that decided it wanted to open on its own. :laugh:
Glad I only had to play frogger and retrieve them and didnt own them or have to pay =P
 
This thread is over..... I bought it.

Got the stihl HT131 pruning saw today... I guess I got a deal? I drove 30 miles one way to buy this thing. Get to the store and he took it in back and started. I heard him fire it up like 4-5 times. Then he came out and said he wasn't going to give it to me... Something about it wouldn't idle right. I was like,,, are you kidding me!!!! He said he'd order another one. So I went home empty handed. I called the store back and said I wasn't interested anymore unless he'd work out a deal. He said after I left he looked at it and it was something minor with the throttle cable. I said I don't know. Then he said he'd throw in 2 chains, 6 pack of oil, and take 10% off. That's what I'm talking about! Good dealer support. Total cost with tax $625.94. I'm going to the dealers house tomorrow morning to pick it up.
 
I like the Power Pruner. Back in the late 80's, I was given a PP to try out. I looked at it and thought "this little piece of junk won't make it till the end of the day". It lasted daily use for over 2 years. They improved it over the years and the optional 5' shaft gives it quite a bit of reach. JMO.

Yep! They are just as good as the Stihl, and Stihl does not have the 5' extension shaft. Yes, I own both types, so I am not suffering from any prejudices. There is also a "hedger" attachement that looks like a bad idea, but it really works quite well for trimming junipers and other hedges at the heights reachable with that pruner.

NOTHING can beat it over 12' up in the air for trimming a hedge of any variety. Above 22', you had better get a bucket truck.
 
i would have gone with a 12 foot wood pole,, ARS blade with gullets and the hook on the end...

have a shindawa power pruner,, works great,, but what do you do with a power pruner up in a tree, when you don't need it ???

pole saw just hang on a limb, or on the edge of the bucket... plus i can set lines with a pole saw.. can't do that with a power pruner...

that said,, there are times that i wish i had the power unit up in the tree with me... but, not often..
 
You set lines with a pole pruner?

Oh ya, in the 80 foot runout skinny canyon growth up in the mountains here. The top hook on the Stihl pole is perfect for putting the beener on and doing a 1,2,3 hoist and flip into a distant crotch. And then a rehook on the backside, pull in and there you go, instant top rope.
 

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