Ported 460 vs 066

[Jason280]

How would a ported Stihl 460 compare with a stock 066 Magnum? I know the 066 would likely pull a 36" bar better, but what about a 28-32" bar? I've come to the conclusion that I may not need an 066, so I am considering having a little work done to a 460 to run longer bar lengths. I doubt I would ever need more than 32", and thinking that 28" would be a good compromise. Would I be better off keeping the 066 for 32-36" bars, or would a ported 460 be sufficient for 32"?

 

[sawfun]

For a 28" or occasional 32" bar, go 460. For a full time 32" or 36" go 660. For milling go 660. I had a 066 but once I got a 460 the 066 went away. In 24" - 28" wood they cut the same, which is mostly what we have around here for firewood. The 066 vibrated noticably more.

 

[Moparmyway]

Just my opinion .............
I run a ported 044 with a 32" and RS or filed RSL ............... no problems.
IMHO, port the 460 and use it with the 32" setup

I have an 066 as well, but I am grabbing my 044 with the 32" setup over the 066.
Now, the 36" setup wont oil well on the 044
I have to be carefull with saw load on the 044 with the 36".
There is no need for being carefull with the 066 and 36" setup - its just that strong (gutted muffler for now and in line for porting next)

If you think you will need more than the 32" setup, then get the 066 ............... if you are sure you will not need anything longer than 32, port that 460

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

For a 28" or occasional 32" bar, go 460. For a full time 32" or 36" go 660. For milling go 660. I had a 066 but once I got a 460 the 066 went away. In 24" - 28" wood they cut the same, which is mostly what we have around here for firewood. The 066 vibrated noticably more.

Ya the first 066 i had with 32" and full skip felt like a jackhammer in hardwoods..the vibes were pretty bad

 

[sawfun]

Strange, both my 880 & 088 vibrated a lot less. When I would use that 066 I would get "tennis elbow" where I didn't have such issues with the larger or smaller saws. And its AV mounts were fine. Go 460!!!

 

[Trx250r180]

32 and a 460 is standard issue around here ,i recommend .063 guage to oil better though

 

[Termite]

32 and a 460 is standard issue around here ,i recommend .063 guage to oil better though

I think the chain stays on the bar better with .063 when the bars get long. Just my opinion.

 

[Trx250r180]

I think the chain stays on the bar better with .063 when the bars get long. Just my opinion.

On my aluminum oregon bars ,the .063 is not as flimsy as the .050 ,that little bit of thickness seems to help some

 

[blsnelling]

Port the 046 and upgrade the oil pump with the HO piston and control bolt.

 

[Raganr]

I tried a 32" 3/8 7 pin with full comp chain on my ported 460 and I did not like it. Probably would have been fine with full skip.

My current bar/chain on this saw is a 28" ES Light with square ground half skip 3/8 .063 with a 7 pin rim. This seems like a sweet spot. I cut mostly oak and pecan. Saw still pulls ~10K with the bar buried applying decent pressure. Saw was ported by Brad.

You are probably looking at over $300 for port work/shipping, plus oiler parts and your new B/C.

 

[blsnelling]

28" is all I run on ported 70cc class saws. I don't see a 32"er being a problem.

 

[Moparmyway]

I tried a 32" 3/8 7 pin with full comp chain on my ported 460 and I did not like it. Probably would have been fine with full skip.

My current bar/chain on this saw is a 28" ES Light with square ground half skip 3/8 .063 with a 7 pin rim. This seems like a sweet spot. I cut mostly oak and pecan. Saw still pulls ~10K with the bar buried applying decent pressure. Saw was ported by Brad.

Video info says you hand filed the chains, did you file them square ?
Did you clean up the rakers ?
The rakers are too low as it looks to be throwing real big chips and acting very grabby in the cut

IMHO, keeping the rakers down near .025 will help that saw !

No way should a ported 460 bog down that quickly, you practically stop the saw with less than 1/2 of the bar in the wood, the finish cut is real rough - rakers are my first guessingnosis ............... has it been re-tuned for your application and location (second guessingnosis)?

 

[blsnelling]

What's up with the first of your the vids? The first one looks way weaker. The other two look good.

 

[Moparmyway]

What's up with the first of your the vids? The first one looks like a stock saw. The other two look good.

Brad, all my honest opinion .............
look real closely at that first video ................. watch the leverage on the saw as it starts cutting, watch everytime he leans on it, look at the chips, look at the finish of the cut .............. IMHO, a better chain is all that's necessary

3rd video .......... watch the transition from the dogs, its better, but still grabby. I think it sounds lean too, but then again, mostly all of the saws you show in your videos are too lean for me anyway. Too lean for me is too rich for someone else ................. either way, you build a mean 460, so it aint the saw, unless it needs to be tuned for the setup

I like a saw that 4 strokes in the transition but not in the cut.
Long bars, I like it to 4 stroke with 1/4 of the bar cutting, but clean up after more bar is used.

 

[sawfun]

My stock 460 runs a 28" with plenty of gusto. If running that length of bar, I'm not sure the saw even needs porting. But my ported 372's WILL run a 36" acceptably.

 

[blsnelling]

You make a good point. Here's another example. My 084 is ported, and I have had it buried in Oak with a 9-pin rim on a 48" bar. However, at the last GTG I went to, it wouldn't hardly pull a 36" with an 8-pin. I had screwed up the chain and made it WAY too gabby.

 

[Raganr]

The one I hand filed, I set the rakers at 6.5 degrees. I am not even close to being good at filing square or really even acceptable, yet. I agree, too aggressive on the rakers. Also, that was a pretty hard piece of crotch wood.

I am no expert at tuning either. Saw has a works connection tach on it so I will richen it up a bit and see how it runs. Thanks for the feedback.

Probably just need to let treeslingr take care of my chains for me.

2nd and 3rd videos were with NIB chains that were new out of the box that day (different days). Never touched with a file by me.

 

[Moparmyway]

You make a good point. Here's another example. My 084 is ported, and I have had it buried in Oak with a 9-pin rim on a 48" bar. However, at the last GTG I went to, it wouldn't hardly pull a 36" with an 8-pin. I had screwed up the chain and made it WAY too gabby.

I have done that more often that I would like to admit to !

 

[Moparmyway]

The one I hand filed, I set the rakers at 6.5 degrees. I am not even close to being good at filing square or really even acceptable, yet. I agree, too aggressive on the rakers. Also, that was a pretty hard piece of crotch wood.

I am no expert at tuning either. Saw has a works connection tach on it so I will richen it up a bit and see how it runs. Thanks for the feedback.

Probably just need to let treeslingr take care of my chains for me.

I like to consider myself a pretty good tuner, but nobody is perfect.
IMHO, leave the tach on the bench until you are finished tuning the saw, then just look at the tach for a reading.
Tuning the saw in the wood is the way to go, especially once the saw is modified.

Not sure how you set rakers at an angle, I set them with a flat piece of steel and some calipers.
If you are hand filing square, aim for .025 max raker depth in hardwood, .032 max in softwood. .028-.029 max for general cutting.

Don't toss the chain ........... save it for softwood, or file the cutters some more to reduce the raker height. Don't give up on filing square ............ your chain cuts very well (as told by the eraser sized chunks), you just have to figure out how to raise those rakers

 

[spindrift7mm]

I agree with Mopar getting too aggressive on the rakers can really screw up a good combo ! 880 won't pull a 24 smooth with low rakers.
I'd buy 261 w/28" light and swap bars. the 28"LW is perfect on a 460/461 saw and the 24" is great on a small saw for brushing the tops. Ken