The fun never stops. I was looking over the Richmond, wishing it would oil just a little better. I noticed that the fat part of the arrow pointed to MIN and the skinny end pointed at MAX, odd. I looked in the Redmax User manual and found that the control is indeed labled backasswards, what a hoot.
here's the illustration from the owners manual
OK, that is by far the funniest thing on this saw yet! I didn't notice, but then I have it set right in the middle. I guess I'll remember that the symbol is right and the text is wrong, since the people who did it could not read the text! Then again, it's a Japanese designed saw and they got it right.......The fun never stops. I was looking over the Richmond, wishing it would oil just a little better. I noticed that the fat part of the arrow pointed to MIN and the skinny end pointed at MAX, odd. I looked in the Redmax User manual and found that the control is indeed labled backasswards, what a hoot.
View attachment 344703
OK, that is by far the funniest thing on this saw yet! I didn't notice, but then I have it set right in the middle. I guess I'll remember that the symbol is right and the text is wrong, since the people who did it could not read the text! Then again, it's a Japanese designed saw and they got it right.......
Oh, it is - I've had it apart down to that level when I had the jug off. I do like having the knob on top - especially now that I know which way to turn it!yeah, when i get time, i'll check to see if that knob is really connected to anything...
Oh, it is - I've had it apart down to that level when I had the jug off. I do like having the knob on top - especially now that I know which way to turn it!
BTW - I looked at the line in my tank, and the filter is sitting towards the fill cap. I have not had any issues running it, but then I seldom hold it starter side down either (I find it uncomfortable).
Lol. No you're not confused, but clearly I am!If the fuel filter is always up towards the fill cap -- and you never turn it with the fuel cap towards the ground -- do you find you need to keep it topped off when cutting on it's side (fuel cap upwards) -- or am I reading you wrong about which way is up?
Gonna give it another go tomorrow -- funny about the oiler!
Thanks! I did remove an inch -- it is like brain surgery through the fill opening. I used needlenose pliers and pulled it pretty hard then clipped it off and replaced fuel filter -- I hope this didn't cause my problem with getting it running -- I hope the line isn't kinked where it goes into the tank somehow. Even after I shortened it an inch -- it still just stays right wherever I place it -- it is still a tad long -- but at the moment this is the least of my problems --but after I get it going I will play with trying to free this also.So I looked in the tank and the filter sat near the opening. You'd think that would cause a problem but I didn't notice anything. I pushed it down to the bottom, reinstalled the cap and turned all around and shook it good - the filter stayed at the bottom. I probably should remove an inch or so of line.
Ok another failed day -- first the gas tank cap gasket failed -- I ended up replacing it with a plumbing gasket -- and I was able to get it goin -- babying it with the trigger -- but after a minute whitish smoke started to come out of the engine -- not out of the muffler -- and this part (see above) turned Blue and multi colors -- and would burn your finger if you touched it! So what gives?
??Funny how it only got hot enough to tint blue on one side of the drum.
Is the drum somehow not not centered over the shoes and spider or was something able to pull that much heat away from the un-blued side?
Is one shoe dragging and hot then it sat there and dumped all of its heat into the drum after the saw was stopped?
Was it run with the brake on and the clutch spring is sagged now
and letting one shoe hang a bit wide?
I think that's good advice. I did have the drive sprocket off mine, and there wasn't much grease (I won't say none as I'm not sure, but it seemed pretty dry).You've got a problem with the clutch. you need to remove the clutch drum, needle bearing and clutch rotor to analyze the problem. You're most of the way there but you need to first remove the starter assembly so you don't damage it while reassembling the clutch. Then use a piston stop (an old piece of starter rope works well, just stuff it into the spark plug hole.) Then. remove the clutch nut on the end of the crankshaft. It has left hand threads so you must turn it clockwise to loosen it. Pull the clutch drum and sprocket rim off the crank shaft. and then the clutch rotor. You should be able to find the problem. When you replace the clutch bearing lubricate it with grease. They probably failed to do that at the factory.Take pictures.
Regarding the fuel cap, husqvarna has some caps that will work. I like the fuel cap from a 575. The stock caps and gaskets are sketchy. Replace them and you'll find you use less fuel.
I think that's good advice. I did have the drive sprocket off mine, and there wasn't much grease (I won't say none as I'm not sure, but it seemed pretty dry).
Also, how high is the idle? Maybe if the idle was just high enough to start the clutch to engage, but the chain could not move (brake on, bar groove packed up with junk, etc.), the shoes were hitting on a high spot on the drum. That would heat it unevenly.
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