Nice work Chris -- should I check mine? Is there an easy way to tell?
Porting a Chinese G621 Clone
- Thread starter Chris-PA
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Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Just bolt the bar on with no chain or clutch cover (use some large nuts as spacers). Then sight down the bar groove and see if the rim is properly aligned with the groove. If it is you are probably OK.
Mine had a missing inner bar plate and a clutch on backwards - must have been the end of the shift or maybe the first day on the job.
...or sadly -- the child putting these together needed a nap. Thanks again for the help!
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I guess Husky fired the child that put my saw together and he went to work at Earthquake. I bought a new 346XP, I think it was '09 and the first time I had the side cover off, I saw that the clutch was on backward, glad Husky got rid of that loser.
Thanks -- I have mine up and running -- seemed to run fine with the chain and bar on. Started right up adjusted the carb a bit. Will finally cut some trees this coming week. haha
BTW would an aftermarket gas cap be a bad idea? Here are some cheap -- there are a few models -- any advice -- mine seems leak free now -- I used a plumbing washer to seal it -- but would like backup -- click link below for caps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171151089345
BTW would an aftermarket gas cap be a bad idea? Here are some cheap -- there are a few models -- any advice -- mine seems leak free now -- I used a plumbing washer to seal it -- but would like backup -- click link below for caps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171151089345
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Cool! I hope it works well for you. Now that I have mine sorted out I'm quite happy with it. It's no fuss to start and use, and it pulls a 24" bar quite well. With a 20" it really goes! Everything is working as it should, including the oiler and air filter. It certainly has no problem oiling a 24" bar, and I'm keeping it set at about 1/2. It's nice having the knob on the top cover.
I can't tell if that cap would fit or not. I've been looking at a pack of caps sold at HD for about $7 that look pretty close. I'm sure they are for a Homelite or something, but I may take a risk on them.
zogger
Tree Freak
Just tote the saw in empty and ask the stock dude in that department if you could (he could) carefully open the package and try one. If it fits, buy it, if it doesn't, they can tape or staple the package back up.
And if all else fails -- you can get one of these rubber toilet flappers -- the round adapter that can be removed with a knife from between the two rubber arms -- fits right on your leaking Richmond Chainsaw's leaking cap-- and no more leaks! Most Home Depots only sell these in 3 packs -- single ones can be found for $1 some places. By the way -- the flapper without this round adapter still fits most toilets -- and changing your flaps every few years saves water... haha
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
LOL - Now just what are you implying here? Toilet parts for the Richmond chainsaw?And if all else fails -- you can get one of these rubber toilet flappers -- the round adapter that can be removed with a knife from between the two rubber arms -- fits right on your leaking Richmond Chainsaw's leaking cap-- and no more leaks! Most Home Depots only sell these in 3 packs -- single ones can be found for $1 some places. By the way -- the flapper without this round adapter still fits most toilets -- and changing your flaps every few years saves water... haha
Honestly -- I went into Home Depot looking for a washer or big o-ring that would fit my cap (cheap OEM washer had failed)-- and Home Depot had nothing big enough to fit -- but since I had the cap with me -- I tried this on for size -- it fit well and I ended up buying it ( my local Home Depot only had the 3-pack $8) -- anyway so I just cut this ring off the flapper -- and fit it onto the cap -- I've had no leaks since! ...and I left it filled for over a week and it was still full. I am still going to get a nice cap.
...but if you ever find yours leaking and need a fast fix to finish working -- take the cap with you -- Home Depot & Lowes have these -- and as I said -- the flap is still good to use missing this ring -- will still fit most toilets -- the o-ring rubber adapter is rarely ever needed -- and is most times cut out and discarded anyway. LOL
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-Black-Rubber-Universal-Toilet-Flapper-9DD041039X/202305791
Was there anything identifiable factor that caused this failure or did it happen during "normal" duty? Do you have an Oregon tie strap that you could try to insert in one of the drive links? I'd like to know it I could shorten the Doikio chain and use it on a shorter bar but I'm afraid that if I break it I won't have a suitable tie strap.
By the way, I'm hoping to get a post together regarding the air filter problems. I pulled the cylinder off and found light damage to the piston skirts, intake and exhaust. I also had to clean out the crankcase which had quite a bit of sawdust in it. It's baffling me because there is hardly anything on the outside of the filter. I'd expect at least as much material on the outside as i see in my intakes track but it's pristine.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I had been noodling a hickory log, and then before I shut it off I decided to cut off a large brier near where I was working. So it wasn't a heavy load but more snagging and grabbing as is typical when cutting brush.
There are extenuating circumstances though - remember that with the clutch on backwards and the drive clutch forced outboard, this chain was forced to go through a large S curve between the drive sprocket/rim and the bar groove. That would have created a continual flexing back and forth on the drive pins, which is what broke. I will look again at the broken pin to see if there is any of the characteristics of a fatigue failure there.
Anyway, I cannot blame the chain given that it was subject to irregular forces.
I don't have any parts/equipment for chain repair/mods - yet.
I'm wondering where the dust is getting in if it isn't building up on the filter mesh? Must have a rather large air entrance that bypasses it. The fit is sloppy around the retaining bolt, which is why I put a spacer in there. It may be drawing in around that.
Mine is filtering better than that now. The filter halves are sealed together with Yamabond4, and clamped until it set. I don't really like the G621 filter/air box design - too many seams under the filter and in the cover assembly. I've been thinking about adapting one of those pleated filters Bailey's sells, but the filter now works just well enough to keep me from bothering.
Regarding the air filter problems, I use a lot of sealer on both the clamshells and the base and the plate underneath. A lot of crap is coming thru at the back of the joint between the air intake and filter/plate even though it looks pretty tight and i seal it, like i said, baffling. I've made a gasket that seals the top better. The redmax has one made of thin springy steel. I have a few experiments to run and then hopefully I can do more than guess. I have a new cover at the post office this morning, but haven't picked it up yet. At present, the saw, though it runs well, is not usable. It wouldn't make it thru a days work without seizing.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I also made a paper gasket that goes between the carb and the filter support.
Well, I made it to the PO and picked up my "new" cover. It must have come off a returned saw because the previous owner had modified it slightly to line up to the mounting screw. Anyway, now the knob falls out of the hole, so you know that will disappear the first time I have to clean the filter on the work site. the saw it came from probably seized the first time out.
I had glued everything together about a week ago and left the saw on the shelf until the cover arrived so I put the cover on and cut six or seven cookies, 20" diameter.
you can see that it lines up with the air intake better now.
because of this, a 3.7 mm spacer I inserted between the carb and isolator. it isn't finished here, had to be cleaned up and two holes for the impulse line drilled. It seems to me that either the isolator is too short or the cylinder is machined incorrectly, causing the misalignment.
here is the filter top gasket
after cutting the cookies:
still a mess, you can see where it's entering:
I'm about to give up and either run over this thing with my truck or buy a complete air intake system for a redmax. don't know which would be dumber.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
That stinks, and mine is nowhere near that bad. I can't actually tell where it is entering, but it does not appear to be around the bottom. There is a general haze of dust all over the filter in that area and of course the adapter throat. Is that top gasket sealed to the filter? My filter has quite a curve there and it would be tough to seal it there in that manner. That is why I added the tube in the middle, so that the cover nut will seal the top hole. It kind of looks like it's coming in from above where the bolt goes through.
actually it's clearly evident that it's entering under the bottom of the filter, especially in the back. I'm wondering if the filter gets cocked when the knob is tightened, creating a gap. you can see from the indentations left by the knob and filter that the paper gasket is sealing well. the shape is just to keep it from spinning when the knob is tightened. I guess I'll have to take it down again and see if I can find a cause. It's interesting that you're not having the same problem.
It's too bad because the saw really does run well and with its light weight, it's a pleasure to operate.
