Poulan Micro XXV Oiler Woes

[canadian175]

Ok friend guess i should check dates.still finding some things hard to follow here.

 

[canadajake]

I put a new 12" Forester bar on mine that I found on Ebay. Great source of parts for these saws.
Once you get the saw running you'll really like it. I run Stihl synthetic @ 40:1 with E-free gas in all my saws.

I've worked on 5-6 of those saws and it's mostly the carb & fuel line & the oil system. I've never has the problem you've had getting one to work, but I suppose my day will come.
I've also figured out how to repair the engine check valves now.

Hi Tomboy, I am working on refurbishing an older Micro XXV. Everything is great now, except the oiler. I have ordered some of those (rubber?) duck bills and am going to try and fix the crankcase check valve, as that seems to be a common issue. I have replaced the oil lines and cleaned out the "pump" so that end seems OK now.
As you mentioned you figured out how to fix the check valve, any chance you can post details and possibly photos of how you did that?
TKA!

 

[Toyboy]

Boy, it's been awhile since I've messed with the oilier check valve but I'll try best I can to get you going.
I don't have and pictures so you'll have to try and visualize what I'm explaining.
The check valve has a screen over the intake end that has to come off. Filing the edge will do it. I've always thought that the screen was there to stop a deteriorated duckbill getting sucked into the crank case.??
Inside the check valve there is a small shoulder that the duckbill sits on and held in place by a tiny bronze/copper/steel (depending on year) compression fit washer.
Those are the four components of the check valve -- body. duckbill, washer and screen.
Remove the screen, remove the washer and duckbill (this takes some finesse and patients).
Clean up the body and reinstall the duckbill and washer. Tap the washer into place to secure. I use a dab of red loctite on the washer edge. The duckbill is sandwiched between shoulder in body and washer. It has to seal.
Install duckbill to crankcase. It sucks and seals pressure.
I've never reinstalled the screen because I've not found a foolproof way to reattach it. Maybe someone has???
I hope all this makes sense and good luck.

 

[canadajake]

Boy, it's been awhile since I've messed with the oilier check valve but I'll try best I can to get you going.
I don't have and pictures so you'll have to try and visualize what I'm explaining.
The check valve has a screen over the intake end that has to come off. Filing the edge will do it. I've always thought that the screen was there to stop a deteriorated duckbill getting sucked into the crank case.??
Inside the check valve there is a small shoulder that the duckbill sits on and held in place by a tiny bronze/copper/steel (depending on year) compression fit washer.
Those are the four components of the check valve -- body. duckbill, washer and screen.
Remove the screen, remove the washer and duckbill (this takes some finesse and patients).
Clean up the body and reinstall the duckbill and washer. Tap the washer into place to secure. I use a dab of red loctite on the washer edge. The duckbill is sandwiched between shoulder in body and washer. It has to seal.
Install duckbill to crankcase. It sucks and seals pressure.
I've never reinstalled the screen because I've not found a foolproof way to reattach it. Maybe someone has???
I hope all this makes sense and good luck.

Hi Toyboy,
Wow, thanks so much for the quick and detailed response!
It all seems to make sense based on your great description.
I have to wait for the duckbills to arrive (they must be very small) but am looking forward to tackling it when they do.
Thanks again!

 

[Toyboy]

Glad to help.
If you think the duckbill is small, wait till you see the compression washer...LOL

You'll find the original duckbill has turned to goo. I don't know if it's from age or E-gas. You have a second check valve in the oil tank I believe. it's been years since I messed with one.
I got the duckbills from my Husky dealer... 20 cents each several years ago.
Again, Good luck

 

[canadian175]

Boy, it's been awhile since I've messed with the oilier check valve but I'll try best I can to get you going.
I don't have and pictures so you'll have to try and visualize what I'm explaining.
The check valve has a screen over the intake end that has to come off. Filing the edge will do it. I've always thought that the screen was there to stop a deteriorated duckbill getting sucked into the crank case.??
Inside the check valve there is a small shoulder that the duckbill sits on and held in place by a tiny bronze/copper/steel (depending on year) compression fit washer.
Those are the four components of the check valve -- body. duckbill, washer and screen.
Remove the screen, remove the washer and duckbill (this takes some finesse and patients).
Clean up the body and reinstall the duckbill and washer. Tap the washer into place to secure. I use a dab of red loctite on the washer edge. The duckbill is sandwiched between shoulder in body and washer. It has to seal.
Install duckbill to crankcase. It sucks and seals pressure.
I've never reinstalled the screen because I've not found a foolproof way to reattach it. Maybe someone has???
I hope all this makes sense and good luck.

Like to see a vedio
On how to do one.
Having same problem.have to try and fix one on a couple old micro's i have. Not getting much oil on the bar.