Poulan question

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Seal on the fuel cap or the vent... Primer bulbs are prone to cracking & I've also seen the housings/barbs cracked more than once. If lines were replaced one may have been pinched & vibrated through after a bit of run time.
If you have a pressure tester or even a bike pump or similar you can adapt, empty the lines & put some pressure on the pick-up & see where it goes with soapy water. If it holds 10-15 psi it's good so move to the purge side of the carb & test the line that goes to the primer
 
I do appreciate your willingness to help , THANK YOU !
I'm pretty dang sure all the lines are correctly connected , the size however I'm not 100 % sure about .
I'm going to start into it this morning and will snap some pics as I go .
Again , thanks for your help .
Primer bulb is also new as well as the fuel cap & O-ring .
 
Seal on the fuel cap or the vent... Primer bulbs are prone to cracking & I've also seen the housings/barbs cracked more than once. If lines were replaced one may have been pinched & vibrated through after a bit of run time.
If you have a pressure tester or even a bike pump or similar you can adapt, empty the lines & put some pressure on the pick-up & see where it goes with soapy water. If it holds 10-15 psi it's good so move to the purge side of the carb & test the line that goes to the primer
This is good advice .
The cap / O-ring are new as well as the primer bulb .
Going to dig into it as soon as grocery shopping is done this morning .
 
Couple hints about your Poulan that you need to keep a heads up about when replacing the tygon fuel lines. (which most likely is cause of your gas leak)

I just got through going all through a PP4620AVX replacing the fuel lines and Primer bulb.
The supply tube to the carb and the return line from the carb to the tank are not the same size and the Poulan fuel line kit on one of the tubes does not fit tight going into the tank. (and the tubing must be a tight snug fit on the primer bulb and the carb barb because when it gets warm or ages it will leak)
Lots of tygon now days that is China made and will not last very long.
I bought a tygon kit from Amazon that has several different sizes of GOOD quality tygon and SELECTED a size for a tight fit. (Had to lube the tubing really good and cut a long taper in the tubing to get a start for using two hemostats to pull through into the tank.
On some chainsaws guys want to install the looser fitting tygon into the tanks because it's easier to install. If it installs easily it's too small for long term use of a seal.
I also had to remove the carb and when I re-installed the carb the saw would not start. I removed the carb and seen a plastic spacer behind the carb laying in the air box. (plastic adapter carb to manifold) re-installed the spacer and all was good.
For a hot start on my saw (think this is mentioned in the owners manual which you can download for your saw) do not choke the engine. Pull out the choke knob then push it all the way back in then crank without touching the throttle trigger. This sets it's to higher throttle Without choking.

Next:

The AVX in the Poulan model number usually indicates that is the WIMPY PLASTIC Poulan knob adjuster in the clutch cover type. It has plastic gears and breaks easily and some are NLA and expensive if found so be careful when doing the chain tension adjust. I converted mine to a regular conventional screwdriver (scrench) adjuster type.
Pay attention the letters following the model number on Poulan saws because if you ignor it you can easily end up with wrong parts. Some Poulan owners manuals which you can usually find online for downloading have a IPL that is good for finding the correct part numbers.
 
Couple hints about your Poulan that you need to keep a heads up about when replacing the tygon fuel lines. (which most likely is cause of your gas leak)

I just got through going all through a PP4620AVX replacing the fuel lines and Primer bulb.
The supply tube to the carb and the return line from the carb to the tank are not the same size and the Poulan fuel line kit on one of the tubes does not fit tight going into the tank. (and the tubing must be a tight snug fit on the primer bulb and the carb barb because when it gets warm or ages it will leak)
Lots of tygon now days that is China made and will not last very long.
I bought a tygon kit from Amazon that has several different sizes of GOOD quality tygon and SELECTED a size for a tight fit. (Had to lube the tubing really good and cut a long taper in the tubing to get a start for using two hemostats to pull through into the tank.
On some chainsaws guys want to install the looser fitting tygon into the tanks because it's easier to install. If it installs easily it's too small for long term use of a seal.
I also had to remove the carb and when I re-installed the carb the saw would not start. I removed the carb and seen a plastic spacer behind the carb laying in the air box. (plastic adapter carb to manifold) re-installed the spacer and all was good.
For a hot start on my saw (think this is mentioned in the owners manual which you can download for your saw) do not choke the engine. Pull out the choke knob then push it all the way back in then crank without touching the throttle trigger. This sets it's to higher throttle Without choking.

Next:

The AVX in the Poulan model number usually indicates that is the WIMPY PLASTIC Poulan knob adjuster in the clutch cover type. It has plastic gears and breaks easily and some are NLA and expensive if found so be careful when doing the chain tension adjust. I converted mine to a regular conventional screwdriver (scrench) adjuster type.
Pay attention the letters following the model number on Poulan saws because if you ignor it you can easily end up with wrong parts. Some Poulan owners manuals which you can usually find online for downloading have a IPL that is good for finding the correct part numbers.


That was another thing I was kicking around . ...that ( when installed ) the Tygon may have too thick a wall thickness and actually be constricted .



Poulan Pro Fuel Line Kit No.

Comes with a large 3/16" OD by 3/32" ID 2 feet long, small 9/64" OD by 5/64" ID 2 feet long. Also comes with the fuel line fitting connector.
 
not likely constricted wall of tygon tubing so as to get to small internally.

Most likely the fit is too loose when first installed and as tygon ages it gets less flexible especially the OD where going into the gas tank. The use of ethanol fuel is not a good thing for chainsaws and cause all kinds of problems even with the primer bulb and fuel/oil lines.

A source for the leak is also the fuel line fitting connector.
Mine had one for use at the gas tank tubing so as to splice the tubing on one side of the hole and to expand the fuel line at the supply hose for a good tighter seal of the tubing at the gas tank hole for the supply line. I seem to think mine was being used on the fuel filter tubing and inside the tank. It's not needed if you get the right size tubing.
I did not use that splicer connector. I choose the size tubing that made the line fit really snug going through the tank hole and did not use that splicer. It's a good place to get a leak trying to use that splicer connector.
Check the air box on that saw while it being tested and right after operating and during pressing the primer bulb. The air box should remain dry. If air box gets wet with gas you may have a carb leak or a line leaking inside the air box and not at the tank holes for the tubing.
 
Does it only leak when the tank is right full? If it leaks when the tank has a small amount of fuel in it, then it isn't leaking where the two lines go into the tank. To check the seams of the tank, pull the primer suction fuel line off the primer or the carb (which ever end is easiest) and then operate the bulb a number of times, this should pump air into the tank and produce some positive pressure in the tank and you can spray a soap solution around the tank to check for leaks.
 
Does it only leak when the tank is right full? If it leaks when the tank has a small amount of fuel in it, then it isn't leaking where the two lines go into the tank. To check the seams of the tank, pull the primer suction fuel line off the primer or the carb (which ever end is easiest) and then operate the bulb a number of times, this should pump air into the tank and produce some positive pressure in the tank and you can spray a soap solution around the tank to check for leaks.
Yes , you're dead on in that it only leaks above 1/2 tank . But regardless of the volume of fuel , the cap still pops when opened . Seems excessive to me.
 

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