Actually, they probably sweated the chain geometry quite a bit when they performed their marketing calculus!
Philbert
PowerSharp!!!!
- Thread starter Fish
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Actually, they probably sweated the chain geometry quite a bit when they performed their marketing calculus!
Philbert
SawTroll
Information Collector
To me it looks like a bad idea that went wrong...
The last time I said something like that I got a message from Oregon, explaining the background for it (no surprice there) - but my opinion is still the same!
oscar4883
Addicted to ArboristSite
I hear what you are sayin Troll. A lot of folks don't want to deal with sharpening a chain. If they can slam that thing up against a log and put an edge on a chain I say good. Better than burning up there saw. I think that most of the saws I have gotten to rebuild are because of dull chains, and dull operator, overworking a saw. Sure that powersharp deal is a little gimmicky but it does have its place in the market. Not with us, but with a certain set.
Diesel nut
ArboristSite Operative
Looks like it would work great to me. I think I might get one if they make one for a Jonsered 2145 and 2050.
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Jimbeamwhite
ArboristSite Lurker
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but
Fish, under "normal" cutting conditions, as in not cutting concrete or hitting steel in the tree and ruining cutters, how many sharpenings do you get out of a chain and stone set, on average? I'm thinking of getting one for my MS200T, saves a load of hassle getting down from the tree and filing (plus, I HATE filing!) then going back up again. Any guesstimate?
Fish, under "normal" cutting conditions, as in not cutting concrete or hitting steel in the tree and ruining cutters, how many sharpenings do you get out of a chain and stone set, on average? I'm thinking of getting one for my MS200T, saves a load of hassle getting down from the tree and filing (plus, I HATE filing!) then going back up again. Any guesstimate?
Jimbeamwhite
ArboristSite Lurker
But this is new technology, not the same as the old stuff. I was just wanting to ask Fish how long the chains last, as he did say it worked welll but never mentioned chain lifespan. I'm one of these people who will buy two chains, leave one in the box, and sharpen the other until it's right back and dead, then put the new one on and buy another - and did I mention that I hate sharpening?
" A bunch". Seriously. The number of sharpenings depends on how bad a chain gets damaged, and how much you take off when filing or grinding. Same with this system.
I tried one of the systems and was skeptical, but very impressed. That's not to say that they cut as well as a carefully sharpened 'normal' chain, but if you are just doing basic cutting and not too fussy, you may be very happy with it. I gather that you hate filing (?), so it sounds like you might give up a little edge perfection for convenience.
If you are just sharpening when the chain gets dull, and not 'rocked', and if you use a reasonably light touch on the bar-end-sharpener, you should easily get 6 to 8 + sharpenings out of a chain. I must have done that many just playing with the sharpener to try it out.
I will bet that Oregon does not recommend you sharpening with it in the tree.
Philbert
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
Fight start time:
Can you BORE with this system ?:knife::male-fighter1:
Seriously though: why is it that touching up a chain or filing down a chip is so tough on the job ? Away from the shop or truck, a simple stump vise, any easy hand sharpening rig like Pherd, isn't brain surgery. Follow the yellow brick witness line, no ? So why the whine or assumed whine about sharpening ? Really don't get it. Really. Besides, most "dealer" sharpenings screw up the chains, and cost drinks.
Can you BORE with this system ?:knife::male-fighter1:
Seriously though: why is it that touching up a chain or filing down a chip is so tough on the job ? Away from the shop or truck, a simple stump vise, any easy hand sharpening rig like Pherd, isn't brain surgery. Follow the yellow brick witness line, no ? So why the whine or assumed whine about sharpening ? Really don't get it. Really. Besides, most "dealer" sharpenings screw up the chains, and cost drinks.
nah... same basic technology
sears craftsman 2.1ps model 358.350871
sears craftsman 2.1ps model 358.350871
But this is new technology, not the same as the old stuff. I was just wanting to ask Fish how long the chains last, as he did say it worked welll but never mentioned chain lifespan. I'm one of these people who will buy two chains, leave one in the box, and sharpen the other until it's right back and dead, then put the new one on and buy another - and did I mention that I hate sharpening?
TMFARM 2009
Addicted to ArboristSite
i am interested in it i have two limbing saws it would work great on... i wished they would make a 20" for my other saw.... heres the way i see it... i work 50 hrs a week and when i am off cutting i have little time to spend sharpening chains.. i even have my own grinder but still i am interested... i carry 15 chains with me to the woods when i go... i usually run through half in a day. i change them out when filling up.. still consumes time that i dont have much of anyway...keep in mind that all the wood i drop and cut has to go that day.you cant leave it or it wont be there when you get back.i dont cut wood in places like most so there is wire and who knows what in some of the trees.i see this system as a real time saver to keep production up while cutting and less down time,especially on the 14" and 16" saws that seem to dull out every fifteen to twenty minutes. my question is how does this system fare in hedge and mulberry shag bark hickory?i cut a lot of it and regular chains dont hold an edge long anyway...i dont understand still why they dont make a twenty"...
galde
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good point. Also affecting the trueness of the resharpening grind is the effect of wear on the drive links and on the spur in the bar nose. Excess slack in the chain will also affect how the stone hones the teeth. I can see many of the targeted users giving it WOT with a loose chain and jamming the rig hard into the solid object. To get the factory-true grind, it would require a taut chain, a new stone, a roller nose or hard nose bar, and a light but steady touch on the stone.
I have used both systems. The 'old' on a 20+ year old Sears (Poulan) electric that I still have, but now use with a conventional chain; and the 'new' on a STIHL 021. They both cut wood. The new system seems to have improved the sharpening system, and they re-designed the chain to go with it.
It's like a lot of things - some guys take elaborate and immaculate care of their cars, others put gas in them and drive them till they stop. Some people use honing steels every time the touch a kitchen knife, some use Ginsu knives for everything, and some don't know that tomatoes are not supposed to smush when cut.
There are a lot of people who don't know that chains can even be sharpened - they just buy a new one or assume that the saw is worn out when it stops cutting. This gives them a way to keep cutting, just like those 'pull through' kitchen knife sharpeners restore some of a knife's ability to cut, even if not to chef's standards.
Other guys, like the OP, may have a specific need it fills. Not for everybody, but from my evaluation, the chains do cut.
Interesting question on the bore cut. Anybody tried that with these?
Philbert
It's like a lot of things - some guys take elaborate and immaculate care of their cars, others put gas in them and drive them till they stop. Some people use honing steels every time the touch a kitchen knife, some use Ginsu knives for everything, and some don't know that tomatoes are not supposed to smush when cut.
There are a lot of people who don't know that chains can even be sharpened - they just buy a new one or assume that the saw is worn out when it stops cutting. This gives them a way to keep cutting, just like those 'pull through' kitchen knife sharpeners restore some of a knife's ability to cut, even if not to chef's standards.
Other guys, like the OP, may have a specific need it fills. Not for everybody, but from my evaluation, the chains do cut.
Interesting question on the bore cut. Anybody tried that with these?
Philbert
have to withdraw my comments about the new powersharp being the same technology.
more accurate is similar technology, with the most important feature of sharpening stone being modular. meaning this new powersharp system can be used with any saw that fits powersharp's proprietary chains.
that's a pretty significant feature! powersharp's tooth profile are very agressive so no lack of performance due to tooth profile. sharpening stones likely will wear unevenly leading to tooth profile crooked as well.
still a very useful technology for casual users ... don't think target audience will be chainsaw nuts on AS.
more accurate is similar technology, with the most important feature of sharpening stone being modular. meaning this new powersharp system can be used with any saw that fits powersharp's proprietary chains.
that's a pretty significant feature! powersharp's tooth profile are very agressive so no lack of performance due to tooth profile. sharpening stones likely will wear unevenly leading to tooth profile crooked as well.
still a very useful technology for casual users ... don't think target audience will be chainsaw nuts on AS.
The chains work with conventional sprockets, but you have to use them with the PowerSharp bars in order to be sure that the radius of the bar tip matches the profile of the sharpening stone. Since Oregon is targeting smaller saws, they are only making bars to fit certain lower cc saws.
That was my experience with my first PowerSharp chain. Although, to be fair, we intentionally abused it (concrete, etc.) to 'test' it. There is a diamond tipped link on each chain to dress the stone each pass. However, I found build up on my stone and uneven cutters after multiple sharpenings. I was concerned about this, as keeping each cutter uniform is a key principle in sharpening, whether filing or grinding.
That said, the chains kept on cutting.
Agree.
Philbert
PowerSharp Eng
ArboristSite Lurker
Right size saws for PowerSharp chain
Please keep PowerSharp on the saws listed for it. The 2145 and 2150 are 45 cc and 50 cc saws and come with a .325 pitch chain that is designed for higher powered saws.
PowerSharp (91PS) is a 3/8 pitch low profile consumer chain and is designed to be run on saws with a 6 tooth drive sprocket, 42 cc (2.3 HP) and under, and 18" or shorter bars. That is the typical saw setup for the 91 series consumer chains.
Running 91PS on saws like the 2145 and 2150 could result in unsatisfactory life. Among other reasons, the .325 chains are stronger because the material is thicker than 91PS.
For those AS members with saws bigger than 42 cc (like all of you) we have heard the requests for a PowerSharp chain designed for the bigger saws. Please be patient.
Please keep PowerSharp on the saws listed for it. The 2145 and 2150 are 45 cc and 50 cc saws and come with a .325 pitch chain that is designed for higher powered saws.
PowerSharp (91PS) is a 3/8 pitch low profile consumer chain and is designed to be run on saws with a 6 tooth drive sprocket, 42 cc (2.3 HP) and under, and 18" or shorter bars. That is the typical saw setup for the 91 series consumer chains.
Running 91PS on saws like the 2145 and 2150 could result in unsatisfactory life. Among other reasons, the .325 chains are stronger because the material is thicker than 91PS.
For those AS members with saws bigger than 42 cc (like all of you) we have heard the requests for a PowerSharp chain designed for the bigger saws. Please be patient.
Bob Wright
Addicted to ArboristSite
I hope they will have 24" - 32"+ bars that are a reasonable price too...Bob
Jimbeamwhite
ArboristSite Lurker
Powersharp Eng, maybe you could answer my question. How many sharpenings would you typically allow something like a MS200T with a 14" bar, before a new stone and chain are needed? Fish seemed to like it but no reply from him here.
Jimbeamwhite
ArboristSite Lurker
No cutting cinder blocks or Aussie wood by the way - just normal use, in normal wood.
