Problem with Chain Flying Off Bar & Sproket -- STIHL 025

[Vernon Tull]

I think so, Eric, but remember that chains remaining tight for more than four hours, though rare, require immediate medical attention. Side effects may include abdominal cramps, irregular spark, headache, and a compelling urge to go cut trees in your neighbor's yard -- trees that certainly don't belong to you.

 

[eric_271]

I think so, Eric, but remember that chains remaining tight for more than four hours, though rare, require immediate medical attention. Side effects may include abdominal cramps, irregular spark, headache, and a compelling urge to go cut trees in your neighbor's yard -- trees that certainly don't belong to you.

LMAO Your going to do fine here Vernon.

 

[geofore]

Sagging chain

DO NOT let the chain sag, it does things you don't want to happen and makes them happen in a hurry. A loose chain allows the chain to ride sideways out of the rails which will make even a sharp chain act like it is dull; you'll notice it's trying to cut sideways. You'll find you are pushing on the saw trying to get it to cut. It also eats/wears the drive links and bar rails when it rides the bar cockeyed. You'll notice the rails turn blue from over heating and you'll be able to run .063 chain on your .050 bar in short order. If you have a roller nose or sprocket tip (as opposed to the solid tip which takes less tension on the chain to run properly) on the bar you'll see notches develop just in front of the roller on the bar from the chain dancing/slapping the bar at that point. Not keeping the chain properly tensioned can put what looks like a hundred hours of wear on the bar and chain in just one tank of fuel. This is aside from making the chain easier to derail. I see this happen to too many noobie's saws. Of course you can go with Fish's idea and dose it up with Cialis but wouldn't you rather have the Cialis for yourself? No sense giving it to the saw, what girl is going to hang out with the saws? Save the Cialis for yourself and tension the chain up.

 

[clearance]

Geo-pretty dull view of running a loose chain. Ran many saws over the years, mostly in the 60-70cc range, 18-24" bars. Ran chains that were tighter than a nuns *&^%, ran chains that you could put fingers between the bar and chain. Most of what you say is very true, except for the bar turning blue because of a loose chain, that is caused by cutting with a dull chain or no oil or both, operator abuse. Loose chains definety get beat up more from all the rocking on the bar and they do get thrown more. Now I run chain tighter, but it is hard to properly tension Stihls because the chain tightens when you snug the bar nuts after you have adjusted it. Huskys are easy. Takes a bit to get used to. A properly sharpened and maintianed saw will cut good and straight regardless. I always have wondered about placing too much stress on the crank bearings from a chain that is too tight. If you are cutting with a tight chain and then you put the saw away, it will get tighter due to shrinkage. All things within reason I guess.

 

[disandat]

The Oregon Powemate sprocket saved me the other day. I tweake the bar a little causing the chain to derail...but the design of the sprocket kept the chain on until I let go of the throttle...all this happened in a second or two.

 

[West Texas]

I had the same problem with small stuff like G Man said. Hit it running at full speed and keep it straight down into the cut as you go. If the small stuff vibrates on you it will catch the chain and toss it off.