Professional Cabling in Large Trees

[tree MDS]

I had to hold my laptop to my head..but i think I heard something about an airspade. lol.

That was pretty easy.

Jo, I assume your going to mulch that bad boy as well, correct??

 

[jomoco]

I had to hold my laptop to my head..but i think I heard something about an airspade. lol.

That was pretty easy.

Jo, I assume your going to mulch that bad boy as well, correct??

I'm not going to do anything other than recommend they re-establish the original grade at the root flare and create a 25 foot radius around each tree filled with large 3 inch pebble stones, no more lawn right up to the trunk!

My worry is that the northern tree's grade change happened happened so long ago that it has put out advantageous roots above the root flare.

I'll make the recommendation, then leave it for someone else to do the remedial dirt work.

jomoco

 

[tree MDS]

So you think the stones would work better than the mulch??

Down in FL we were going around this neighborhood taking down all these Laurel Oaks that had died due to something or another (drought I'll assume, cant remember, I was young), and in the only yard where the Laurels were still alive, the trees had had the turf removed and been mulched. I'll never forget that, pretty cool.

 

[jomoco]

So you think the stones would work better than the mulch??

Down in FL we were going around this neighborhood taking down all these Laurel Oaks that had died due to something or another (drought I'll assume, cant remember, I was young), and in the only yard where the Laurels were still alive, the trees had had the turf removed and been mulched. I'll never forget that, pretty cool.

The pebble stones are obviously not as desirable as a mulch base, but they are far more practical in such a highly manicured environment that has such high foot traffic and wind.

The trees themselves will lay down a thick layer of needles soon enough. I will recommend a small perimeter fence around the pebble stone radius around each tree. Each irrigation drain on that property has the same 3 inch pebble stones around it that I'm recommending be used around the bases of these trees.

jomoco

 

[woodchux]

Jomoco- you should download 'windows movie maker' (free)http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/updates/moviemaker2.mspx
Then you can easily edit out your new videos

 

[Xmaniac]

I use a laser pointer attached to my cordless makita hammer style drill to get perfect angles on the first hole. Once you set the first through bolt or rig eye, set the come a long up, pretension the cable and use it as a guide for the second hole.. I prefer through bolt hardware with ehs cable, preform grips. I use a large malleable washer, small normal washer, lock washer and then nut... cut off the excess bolt about 2 threads past the nut and peen it over... I do a lot of hub and spoke and ring systems for laterals with multiple forks.... less holes, cable, better support..

 

[murphy4trees]

that's a little overkill bro

 

[Xmaniac]

You say overkill, I call it passion and incorporating new technology to enhance the strength and longevity of a current application... hub and spoke isn't applicable many scenarios, but the use of a ring for large laterals with multiple forks, supports the entire head more evenly, as opposed to a single cable in the middle or off to one side... it's also less invasive than installing multiple single cable systems to support the branch. Less holes.

 

[Xmaniac]

A few examples

 

[mikewhite85]

A few examples

Looks pretty slick!

Another way with the same amount of cable and holes would be to use rig guys with the central hub they design. But I do think your ring idea is more fluid, especially if the angles aren't quite right.

We do a lot of cabling, often X or triangle pattens but I've actually never used a central hub since I feel like it would be more difficult to set up or you would need to be more exact in your measurements to get the hub right in the middle. Was there a learning curve when you first started doing those? When the right tree comes a long, I'd like to consider giving it a whirl.

 

[Xmaniac]

Looks pretty slick!

Another way with the same amount of cable and holes would be to use rig guys with the central hub they design. But I do think your ring idea is more fluid, especially if the angles aren't quite right.

We do a lot of cabling, often X or triangle pattens but I've actually never used a central hub since I feel like it would be more difficult to set up or you would need to be more exact in your measurements to get the hub right in the middle. Was there a learning curve when you first started doing those? When the right tree comes a long, I'd like to consider giving it a whirl.

I liked the rig guy's because installation is way easier. I do recommend using a laser pointer to get hole angles right and a malleable washer between the rig guy and stem to increase surface area contact. I've seen a lot of bad entry and exit hole angles, leading to cross loading the rig guy's, cable and excessive wearing to the entry/exit holes on the tree... I prefer a through bolt system myself with ehs cable and preformed grips. It makes adjustments easier, eliminates cambium rubbing if the angles aren't perfect and in hub and spoke systems, you can do as many legs that will fit on the ring...

 

[Xmaniac]

Yes, there's definitely a learning curve like with anything else.... the key is to visually determine where the ring needs to be located to properly align all cabled candidates... when installing hub and spoke between multiple uprights, you want to center the ring between the 3,4,5,6 etc. Stems. Also in this configuration, it's recommended that they all are coming into the ring at the same level. You can't have 3 legs level and then one angled downwards more than 15°.. use a separate single cable system in this scenario. On lateral stems with multiple forks, set the ends on the branch first to set the optimal ring placement needed and adjust the legs or spokes accordingly... then set the upper/single cable with come a long. There's always short pieces of cable from over measurements or the end of the spool. I save these because they're perfect for hub and spoke cabling...it doesn't matter if the piece of cable is too long, don't fully terminate your preformed grips until all adjustments are made. you can cut the excess off later.

 

[Xmaniac]

Multiple leg hub and spoke system on a tipuana tipu tree...

 

[mikewhite85]

I used to live in LA. Tipuanas are one of the trees I actually miss! They are a pleasure to work in. Excellent work, brother. Thanks for the info.

I think it would take me all day to instal a 5 leg spoked system like that, even working in tandem with a bucket truck. I think I would have a few "oopsie" holes!

 

[Xmaniac]

I used to live in LA. Tipuanas are one of the trees I actually miss! They are a pleasure to work in. Excellent work, brother. Thanks for the info.

I think it would take me all day to instal a 5 leg spoked system like that, even working in tandem with a bucket truck. I think I would have a few "oopsie" holes!

Once you set the first 2 legs" start with the easiest, straightest angle stems to get your ring centered and stationary, I recommend setting these somewhat tight so the others don't cause slacking, then systematically add the rest, using the ring as a guide for drilling the individual holes in each stem....the laser pointer pen on back of drill definitely aids perfect hole placements...

 

[tree MDS]

That’s awesome Xmaniac! You’re are a cabling guru!! That is no small thing! I suck at it and hate it!

I have seen those hubs a couple times in smaller trees (think old jap maple), but have always been intrigued by the ingenuity involved with then. Very impressive!! Thanks for posting!

 

[Xmaniac]

Thanks for the compliment. I personally love cabling. In my 25+ years as a climber/Arborist I've seen lot's of tree's have failures that could've been mitigated by initial structural pruning to eliminate codominent or multiple stem unions, branches with poor attachments, tight V crotches... lion's tailing that promotes branch elongation, sunscald, flush cuts. Normally when us profesional certified arborists get to the tree finally, we have to mitigate the unfixable. The majority of large stem failures I come across, wouldn't of happened if they were cabled properly... and unfortunately, they end up being removals because of structural integrity being compromised.... being proactive and installing cables is ultimately less expensive than loosing a mature tree's property value, shade, oxygen, etc.

 

[Xmaniac]

The milwaukee 3.5" battery cut off tool works awesome for cutting your ehs cable... I use the mini Sawzall for cutting the eye bolt ends. Just cut 3/4s the way through, about 2 thread lengths from nut. then wack it with the small mallet you use to mushroom over the thread's. A go thru style socket set makes life a lot easier for all thread and through bolts..... a nice chisel and pair of vise grips make things easier too. I use a tenex multiple eye daisy chain type sling for attaching the come a long.

 

[Xmaniac]

I use a laser pointer device that also gives distance up to 100 feet. Picked it up at a building supply store for like 80 bucks and use the snot out of it. Especially great for measuring long cables like anything over 15 feet, very accurate. Also handy to use as pointer and checking heights when bidding bucket work, side reach of bucket etc.

With 2' of drill bit and another foot and half of drill, I can eyeball the opposing limb (target) and 9 out of 10 times after 1st hole is bored, I put eye right up to tree and look through hole and see the entire limb. That 1 in 10 I can at least see part of the limb. Everyone is looking for this laser accuracy but lets face it, when the wind starts to blow, those laser sights will be scanning all around like some laser light show anyway right?

I totally recommend a laser pointer pen which I place on the back of my makita cordless heavy duty hammer drill... this let's you set the first hole perfectly angled and in line to the other stem, making sure it's free of possible obstructing branches and getting the best hole placements... insert through bolt, large malleable washer, lock washer and nut. Tighten, keeping eye in line and cut off after 2 threads past nut... peen with hammer to save the squirrels!! Terminate this cable end with thimble and preformed grip....taking a measurement with an accessory line helps with long spans... depending if you have another climber or using a aerial lift... a good groundman can visually the cable out on the ground from one approximate location to the other and add a foot or so too... I use excess small lengths for hub and spoke systems all the time... on the second bolt hole. If you set the come a long about 4 inches underneath your preferred, predetermined by laser point, attach it to the cable by havens grip, cam facing upwards, then tension it a little past taught. You can follow the come a long as a true jig or guide to get a perfect angle... then install hardware, leave a few wraps of the preformed grip unterminated, also any excess cable can be bent over and cut off too after proper tensioning is achieved... I prefer to leave a little extra cable past the preformed grip for future adjustment, I bend it upwards a tad to clear the thimble, even though it looks tacky to me. The client won't even notice it....then terminate preformed grip thoroughly... always try and find the best entry and exit hole locations possible to eliminate or minimize the need for chiseling out bark/cambium material, opposing angles are preferred... on large bifurcation type laterals a ring can installed from the main support cable and split into 2,3 or more cables to properly balanced movement and support....