prussik for flipline adjuster?

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oh i forgot to say. how to i attach the prusik to my harnesses D ring? twisted clevis?
well you got the eye to eye prussic cord i just use a petzl AM'D triact carabiner, however any autolocking carabiner will work the same, hope this helps if you hve any other questions let me know....ERIC
 
oh i forgot to say. how to i attach the prusik to my harnesses D ring? twisted clevis?

I like mine attached directly to the D-ring with no carabiner, snaps, or clips. The only Carabiner I have off my right side is used as a way to advance the slack, like a micro pulley. The bad thing is that is I can't cheat and work only on the left side D-ring when just trying to find a secondary tie in point but otherwise I like it fixed. That's just my way of doing things.
 
That's what I've been doing for the past couple of years but just last night I made up a new one with a distel on the biner and an aluminum snap on the non adjustable end. It's about 16ft. long and I plan on using it not only as a lanyard but also frequently as a second climbing system on my bridge. Instead of a micro pulley I'm using a double swivel made for rotating hanging plants. This is the third rope change for this lanyard using the same snap and swivel. The first two used the vt but I'm going with the distel this time for compactness.

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I like your set up a lot better then mine. Mine is a little different and I'll post pics in the morning when my camera is charged up.
 
I recently got a steel core prussic for my flipline adjuster...double ender like clearance's....It's definelty has its advantages but doesn't adjust near as fast as my petzl macrograb...I've taken the little doodad that keeps some tension on the grab, allowing me to adjust with one hand (most times) and its way quicker and smoother than the prussic, especially when tightening up... with no tension on it I can sometimes lengthen it one handed..,
 
Here is how I've been doing it. Treeco, I like the look of your set up because it looks like there is no slack when advancing the hitch. On mine there is about 10" of slack I have to pull up before the carabiner advances the hitch. I always kept it that way because I was scared to have anything close to the prusik hitch in fear that somehow it could cause the hitch to loose friction. My climbing line is similiar and once again there is a lot of slack that I have to take up before the carabiner advances the blake hitch. Same deal, I was always afraid to have anything close to the hitch. Nobody has ever shown me how to do all that, so that was my version. I'm gonna have to steal your set up and try it out. It looks nicer. I also like how a lot of you guys use that double fisherman knot. I've only used a double fisherman when connecting two ends of a rope, otherwise I've always used a figure 8. I've been useing the figure 8 for years and it's never done me wrong but it does use up a lot of rope and is bulky.

BTW sorry Voxac30dude if I'm getting away from your original post.

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That's what I've been doing for the past couple of years but just last night I made up a new one with a distel on the biner and an aluminum snap on the non adjustable end. It's about 16ft. long and I plan on using it not only as a lanyard but also frequently as a second climbing system on my bridge. Instead of a micro pulley I'm using a double swivel made for rotating hanging plants. This is the third rope change for this lanyard using the same snap and swivel. The first two used the vt but I'm going with the distel this time for compactness.

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That's almost identical to my setup, only I use an eye/eye distel and have a micro pulley on the carabiner. Very neat, very little slack. Great minds:clap::clap:
 
That's almost identical to my setup, only I use an eye/eye distel and have a micro pulley on the carabiner. Very neat, very little slack. Great minds:clap::clap:

Same here, but I've spliced the clip on the end for giggles as well. Great way to use up rope scraps. Neat, compact, and adjusts under tension just like your climbing line. In fact I'm thinking of doing the same thing with my wire core so I can adjust it under tension as well. Guess I'll have to think up something to do with my old rope grabs.

But don't confuse me with having a great mind....
 
Same here, but I've spliced the clip on the end for giggles as well. Great way to use up rope scraps. Neat, compact, and adjusts under tension just like your climbing line. In fact I'm thinking of doing the same thing with my wire core so I can adjust it under tension as well. Guess I'll have to think up something to do with my old rope grabs.

But don't confuse me with having a great mind....

Ha, you can join the club...
I have tried a couple of rope grabs but am sold on the adjust under tension of a hitch
 
i picked up a steelcore flipline and mechanical adjuster when i first started and HATED the lack of slacking adjust when tense at all. i use that for an ascender now.

for friction hitches ive used clearance 3/8 rope in blakes and prusic configuration, but ive settled on the a VT with micropulley for most everything. looks complex but it really isnt once you get it. the VT slackens instantly and makes for one hand adjustments all the time, no matter how much sap. sinches up instantly, i never ever have to wrestle this setup in the tree. the other friction hitch i use alot is the klemheist. sets up fast when tossing another rope out, and it loosens quite easily to get past the sap goobs.

probably goes without saying that cutting with one lanyard, even if its a steelcore, isnt safe if the hitch is just rope. i knicked my VT on thanksgiving 80% of the way through. good thing for backups.
 
That's what I've been doing for the past couple of years but just last night I made up a new one with a distel on the biner and an aluminum snap on the non adjustable end. It's about 16ft. long and I plan on using it not only as a lanyard but also frequently as a second climbing system on my bridge. Instead of a micro pulley I'm using a double swivel made for rotating hanging plants. This is the third rope change for this lanyard using the same snap and swivel. The first two used the vt but I'm going with the distel this time for compactness.

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Thanks to TreeCo for posting a pic of his new lanyard. Full credit to him for giving me some great ideas for the following (see pic).

I'd been using the Distel for quite sometime but was not happy with the slack tending. His double swivel gave me the idea of using the rope snap eye to tend. Adjusting the length, in or out, is as smooth as glass and the Distel grabs the lanyard perfectly.

Finally, I think I can use a lanyard without using profanity ... THANKS MAN!!! ... :cheers:

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Hey I just may copy your snap idea!

As I plan on using mine as a second short climbing system and a lanyard with the second system using snaps and my main system using biners it would be easy to tell the two apart. I doubt I'll go with stopper knots though....probably the double fishermans again.:cheers:

Yeah, the DFL's should work, too. I got the stopper idea from outofmytree's post back in September. It was something picked up at a competition - approved by "the tech committee". I thought I'd give 'em a go ... seems to run smoother ... time will tell.
I'd be interested in how it works for you.:cheers:
 
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Wear out the mechanical rope grab on my lanyard? Really? Mine had been on there since 98. It looks fine. I will give it a good once over but how does it wear?
 
Single-Jack & Treeco,
can I get a source / name of the cord you are using for your distel hitches?
thanks

I'm using a 9mm Prusik cord I bought off-the-shelf from Sierra Moreno Mercantile Co.

However, it is generally considered safe to use any static line rated for climbing that is 75-80% of the size your main line. Most of the sponsors that carry rope can supply line that is suitable for life support (Distel) use.
 
Thanks to TreeCo for posting a pic of his new lanyard. Full credit to him for giving me some great ideas for the following (see pic).

I'd been using the Distel for quite sometime but was not happy with the slack tending. His double swivel gave me the idea of using the rope snap eye to tend. Adjusting the length, in or out, is as smooth as glass and the Distel grabs the lanyard perfectly.

Finally, I think I can use a lanyard without using profanity ... THANKS MAN!!! ... :cheers:

4160159111_19df7d5cf1.jpg

I carry two lanyards, and at least one of them must release under tension. When doing saddle work, then both of them release under tension. The knut tied with short legs works well for that with a mp for me.

After I learned to splice the ends of my lanyards I could never go back to that big knot at the rope snap. It catches when pulling it back out in tight crotches and is a pain.
 
I carry two lanyards, and at least one of them must release under tension. When doing saddle work, then both of them release under tension. The knut tied with short legs works well for that with a mp for me.

After I learned to splice the ends of my lanyards I could never go back to that big knot at the rope snap. It catches when pulling it back out in tight crotches and is a pain.

Very good point!!! I've been using spliced laid rope on snaps 'til now on a DEDA lanyard (a la Tom Dunlap). This is just the first step in testing the hitch on a "ring" type tender system. If everything goes as well as it's going, I'll proceed with the DEDA version of this lanyard system. I'll need to get a longer hank of rope for that. Until then, I do not "pull" that "big knot" through "tight crotches" - I simply throw it back the way came - no PITA at all.
 
Thanks Single-Jack and TreeCo,
I noticed there is a West Marine about 45 minutes from me; I will check 'em out next time I'm over that way. I first tried a distel about 2 years ago with 10 mm tenex (sherrilltree) and really liked it and now use it whenever possible. Still use a blakes / backed up with an 8 for blocking but that's about the only time I get away from the distel. Will have to try it on a flip line ; never really thought about doing that. I just couldn't justify that price for the tenex, tried some other (inferior products) but just quite haven't found what I'm looking for so I really appreciate the info.
 
Very good point!!! I've been using spliced laid rope on snaps 'til now on a DEDA lanyard (a la Tom Dunlap). This is just the first step in testing the hitch on a "ring" type tender system. If everything goes as well as it's going, I'll proceed with the DEDA version of this lanyard system. I'll need to get a longer hank of rope for that. Until then, I do not "pull" that "big knot" through "tight crotches" - I simply throw it back the way came - no PITA at all.

I did "proceed with the DEDA version of this lanyard system." And, I took TreeCo's advice and used the DFL's. So, here's the update:

:agree2:

I'm essentially with the two lanyard group. However, I extended the two lanyard approach to some development work by Tom Dunlap and TheTreeSpyder. I'm using their Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) approach. It's essentially two lanyards "joined" around the back. There's less hardware than with two lanyards. Plus, you can use virtually all the lanyard on either side. I use both sides on almost every climb - very versatile, easy to use and lighter.

Double Ended, Double Adjusting (DEDA) Lanyard
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Virtually all the lanyard length is available to either side. A more versatile alternative to two separate lanyards - uses less hardware.

DEDA LANYARD END DETAIL
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Rope Snap
21' of 7/16" Sterling HTP
TFL's with thimbles on Snaps
Distel Friction Hitch
9mm Sterling Accessory Cord
DFL's on Distel hitches
3/8" SS Clevis safety wired
... secures & tends Distel hitch
All rope ends dipped in Plasti Dip
All loose ends whipped & frapped
 
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