beowulf343
Addicted to ArboristSite
I wouldn't say Olive Oil was a great catch-i've seen guys with bigger ****s!:biggrinbounce2:treeseer said:Hey, Popeye got Olive Oyl. These hams are worth a lot.
I wouldn't say Olive Oil was a great catch-i've seen guys with bigger ****s!:biggrinbounce2:treeseer said:Hey, Popeye got Olive Oyl. These hams are worth a lot.
treeseer Buit seriously Fireax said:Aint got a cannon, but if I had one I probably would want to shoot it at something. I confess I have been known to break out the .22 rat shot on carpenter bees.
Thanks for the advice, though. Do have a tendency toward overkill I have to be aware of. Hit a cottonmouth water moccasin with .44 mag rat shot once at a range of 2 feet. A piece of the head landed on my shoulder.
Got a Sugoi, like it, use it a lot. But I usually have the 200T with me by the time I get to the top on a removal.
arboralliance said:I concur clearance, at 6" dia as stated by the originator I could (in Australian tall timber forest or such) still be cutting out 20 or 30'+ of head or more ...
Tree Machine said:A power-ported 346XP, this is really not a difficult saw to climb with. The key is in having a good, stong bungee lanyard.
QUOTE]
Hey TM, being a Stihl man i'm trying to picture the size saw your climbing with. What would be the stihl equivalent?
Trev
Quote:
Originally Posted by arboralliance
Can anyone else comment on techniques for reducing whip in removing heads/ends form long stems?
Originally Posted by treeseer
"From the left field bleachers"
Yeah, sure.
leave the chain saw on the ground, and put a polesaw on the dogleash. Climb up to where you want to be, double-tie in. Use polesaw to reduce end as much as possible. Loblolly branches snap off easy so this goes fast.
Reclip polesaw, unsheath sugoi. Spin to side of cut, make notch, start back cut. Spin yourself behind the cut, saw until it's ready to go. Sheath sugoi, brace knees against stem, then push top over sloooooooooooooooowly.
Much Less thrilling, but much less jerking around.
I can't see using a chainsaw for anything under 10" on pine. Why deal with the weight and the risk, not to mention the noise and fumes? But that's just me; I may be in the minority here...
treeseer said:"Polesaws just don't cut fast enough,
with practice, they are faster, and safer.
"none of my pole saws would reach
get a telescoping polesaw then
"Bigger power bigger abilities.
Bigger risk too, bigger boat anchor to drag up. TM, has that blonde whipped you into cert shape yet?
I'll leave you guys alone now. :bang: I can tell that you're all motorheads, addicted to Power, even when it takes more power to use it than you gain from using it.
Do you have a Tim Taylor poster in your shop?
Quote:
Originally Posted by arboralliance
I concur clearance, at 6" dia as stated by the originator I could (in Australian tall timber forest or such) still be cutting out 20 or 30'+ of head or more ...
Yessir. Spindly rascal, that's what hurt. Actually, it wasn't much bigger than 6" where I spurred in. I quit climbing because my weight was complicating the already existing sweep, and I still had 25 feet of top.
I do have 14 feet of pole saw and a marvin head. I could have lightened the top some, and I still like the idea of tieing back against the lean.
arboralliance said:(I am gravely concerned that people are taking this advice as scripture...)
Enter your email address to join: