Question Carbide tipped vs coated

[066fileskipper]

I have a question about the carbide tipped chains vs carbide coated. I see them on e-bay for $60 for a coated 20" and $200 for a tipped 20". I am just wanting to put a duromatic bar on my saw so I can cut roots and really flush cut so stumps. Would the coated one do me just fine, or do I need to spend the $200? Thanks for the advice.

 

[sam-tip]

I have a 24 inch tipped chain. To me it was my worst purchase. Almost 60 to have it sharpened. Did not cut very well. Dulled just as quick as regular chain in junk wood.

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[northmanlogging]

Carbide is hard not tough, given the right circumstances and enough rigidity carbide can and will cut just about anything. Unfortunately chainsaws are not a rigid platform and sudden impact with say rocks or other hard stuff will chip or fracture carbide, dulling a chain very fast. While a good Idea for fire fighters and the like since the carbide will cut through nails and the like and not notice, they are very expensive, and almost as expensive to regrind. Although I've heard good things about carbide Chains in dirty/muddy conditions, you still need a big saw to pull it though
My suggestion to you is rent a stump grinder, or just get some old clapped out chains and a worse bar and go like Hel until something gives, might want to use a cheap pawn shop saw as well.

As far as the coated chains If I remember right they are Ti-Ni coated (Titanium Nitrate) which helps extend the life a little, until that first filing, when it all goes on the floor and you're back to an expensive stock chain with pretty colors.

Man I wish we could still buy 30% at the hardware store... 7-8 sticks and some det cord... who needs ear plugs:rolleyes2:

 

[imagineero]

I've had mixed success with RDR as shown here;

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/188237.htm

The gemoetry needs to be changed quite a biit to cut worth a damn, which should be done with a diamond wheel ($$$) but I get away with the ABN cyclone wheel on my machine for occasional use. Otherwise, .404 sharpened at 80/15/0 lasts a long time in crap wood and does ok on roots, but is slow and needs a good size powerhead.

Shaun

 

[066fileskipper]

Well, i have an 066 and a 288 xp, but how hard will it be on the saw itself, not the bar and chain, to be cutting in the dirt?

 

[Slamm]

I low cut trees all the time with Stihl Semi Chisel Full Skip in 3/8". I have used carbide, I will never use carbide again.

If Stihl Semi Chisel in 3/8" isn't enough cutter life for you then the .404 in Semi Chisel Full Skip is the next best option.

There is some skill in cutting low stumps and the root flares, and that is knowing when you are about to breakout of the wood and into the dirt and just staying inside the wood. You can feel when you break out of the wood with the bar tip and then pull it back and move over, instead of just hogging the tip through a load of dirt and rocks. I would venture its a process more learned by trial and error than from the internet though.

Sam

 

[northmanlogging]

Well, i have an 066 and a 288 xp, but how hard will it be on the saw itself, not the bar and chain, to be cutting in the dirt?

It depends on how much dirt ya plan on shoveling with yer saw... Most of a saw is pretty well sealed up tight but if you start kickin up a whole bunch of that fine Wyoming dirt it can get into your air filter pretty quick and then clog it no big deal right...they are designed to keep saw dust out not a sand storm. It WILL get into your clutch mechanism and wear it out really fast, not to mention that bearing that rides on the crank shaft and on the stihls your chain oiler is right there(not a husky guy so..). Saw dust is hard enough on a saw and they are designed for that kind of abuse... don't forget about the Crank seals.

An 066 will pull a .404 chain no problem and that could be the way to go, but hey its your saw...