Rate Stihl's Advice on Chain Tension

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Paul Bunions

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I think I may be tightening my chains too much.

A lady mechanic with a Youtube channel says to tighten your chain until you can only pull three links away from the bar. The big problem here is that a long chain has to be a lot tighter than a short chain to get to that point. On a 24" bar, I have to crank it pretty good.

A Stihl video says to tighten until the chain snaps back against the bottom of the bar when you pull it away. Sound right? I guess they ought to know.

 
No idea why anyone would give instruction like the first video. I’d have to believe that a12 year old girl doesn’t pull up on the chain quite as hard as a ham fisted 300 pound guy like myself. I bet if she can get 3 drive links out of the rail I can grab it and get 8 to show with the same tension. Just seems stupid.

Adjust the slack out of the chain until it comes up and hits the bar on the bottom. Tighten the nuts up, start it, run it around a few times to get some oil on it, and then recheck. If needed tighten it up again if it’s not touching the bottom rail
 
I like to tighten until the chain comes up to the bottom of the bar,...and then just a touch more.
I don't like bar wear at the tip.
 
Remember to adjust the chain with the bar tip held up, this is the loosest chain position for the bar and it is the position where it will end up when you apply a lot of pressure on the bar to make a dull chain cut. Spool the chain around until you find the place where it is the loosest (if there is one), then adjust tension until the chain just touches the bottom of the bar (no gap or sag off the bar), tighten the nuts and spool the chain around the bar manually, it should travel smoothly and easily. Too tight is NOT good.
Checking tension by seeing how hard it is to pull the chain off the bar is the least accurate method and should only be used on electric saws where you can't manually pull the chain around the bar.
 

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