Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
I think the machine set ups for 1100 series machines on Tree Stuff's site are listed in error. They show spacers and nuts. I'm not aware of a 1100 series tooth that uses a spacer.
Rayco rg 50 super
- Thread starter outdoorsman0490
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outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
Why do you use the 1100 verse the 900, won't the smaller tooth cut faster than a larger tooth if all other factors are constant?
Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
If that were true there would be no need for the larger tooth. I think the goal is to use the largest carbide surface your horse power will support. Up until a couple years ago, the break between the 900 series and 100 series was at 50 -60 HP range. Now the line has been moved to the 90 -100 HP. I'm sure there is a very good reason for it somewhere. I hope it is not because the margins are better on the smaller tooth and pockets. It may be because the average operator does not maintain a sharp edge, bogging the machine down? At any rate, my machines (RG50,RG66, RG1642) were all running 1100s when I bought them. It's what I'm used to. I have close to 200 teeth and a inventory of pockets...
I'm not trying to influence your decision, only telling you why there are so many people not running 900s and that in MY area with the stumps that I run across day to day, the Super will handle 1100s.
I'm not trying to influence your decision, only telling you why there are so many people not running 900s and that in MY area with the stumps that I run across day to day, the Super will handle 1100s.
island edge
ArboristSite Operative
So how does the the super (66) compare to the standard 50 in power? Those of u that own both.. Will the extra 15hp make the difference?
Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
A world of difference. I think the RG50 is 48 HP. So you are looking at a gain of 18 HP. But, you are going from a 3 cyl to a 4 cyl. A MUCH smoother and quieter machine. Less vibration.
You loose the vinyl overflow/bleed-off lines on the injectors.
You go from a 20" cutter wheel to a 24", increasing from 18 to 24 pocket/teeth.
One of the biggest gains is going from 2WD to 4WD. Huge advantage. Many, many jobs I have completed that would have been drive-bys with the 50 because of the 4DW. Sometimes you never get those jobs back, they go to the guy who can get it done.
With the Super you gain a hydraulic blade. You now have the ability to move a mountain of chips. Ever have a tree service buck a tree and leave the rounds right where you need to be, then go to lunch? Backfilling is now a breeze. Ever sink an axle in the mud? The blade will lift the entire back of the machine out of the ground.
In terms of actual horse power increase, you are only gaining 37%. (only!) But, when you consider the total package, the actual differences between the two machines in productivity, are much more. I have always told people that overall, the Super is twice the machine.
You loose the vinyl overflow/bleed-off lines on the injectors.
You go from a 20" cutter wheel to a 24", increasing from 18 to 24 pocket/teeth.
One of the biggest gains is going from 2WD to 4WD. Huge advantage. Many, many jobs I have completed that would have been drive-bys with the 50 because of the 4DW. Sometimes you never get those jobs back, they go to the guy who can get it done.
With the Super you gain a hydraulic blade. You now have the ability to move a mountain of chips. Ever have a tree service buck a tree and leave the rounds right where you need to be, then go to lunch? Backfilling is now a breeze. Ever sink an axle in the mud? The blade will lift the entire back of the machine out of the ground.
In terms of actual horse power increase, you are only gaining 37%. (only!) But, when you consider the total package, the actual differences between the two machines in productivity, are much more. I have always told people that overall, the Super is twice the machine.
Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
So did you pick it up? Test run it...
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
I like the way all that sounds.
I didn't get an engine manual from the previous owner, I got the service manual and the operators manual. This machine always ran full synthetic Royal purple believe it or not. I got 3 extra oil filters from the guy, but I don't know the capacity of the oil; how much does this motor take?
I didn't get an engine manual from the previous owner, I got the service manual and the operators manual. This machine always ran full synthetic Royal purple believe it or not. I got 3 extra oil filters from the guy, but I don't know the capacity of the oil; how much does this motor take?
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
I wrote that last post last night, but didn't post it somehow.
Yeah, got it Sunday. The super teeth on them are pretty rough and work has been too busy to give it a rip. I have it in the garage on the trailer, maybe this weekend I will get a chance to do a small maple or ash stump at my house, even with the dull rayco teeth
Yeah, got it Sunday. The super teeth on them are pretty rough and work has been too busy to give it a rip. I have it in the garage on the trailer, maybe this weekend I will get a chance to do a small maple or ash stump at my house, even with the dull rayco teeth
Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
new stump guy
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I can use a little help from Rayco Super 50 owners.
I am getting ready to change the hydraulic oil and filters and I have several questions. The return oil filter seems simple enough, spin the old one off and spin the new one on. The suction or supply to the pump filter is in the oil tank itself. I was thinking of removing the small basket strainer on the top of the oil tank and pumping out the oil from the tank and replacing the suction filter and refilling the tank with fresh hydraulic oil. I am aware I will not get all of the old oil out of the system but I believe I will get at least about 80% of it out. It concerns me to empty the complete system and I am fearful of starting up without the pumps and motors somewhat filled with hydraulic oil. In short how do you guys change your hydraulic oil and filters?
When greasing your cutting wheel bearings I pump grease into the bearing until I see grease exiting the bearing. I do this every one to two hours of operation. Does this seem correct?
Thanks in advance,
Joe
I am getting ready to change the hydraulic oil and filters and I have several questions. The return oil filter seems simple enough, spin the old one off and spin the new one on. The suction or supply to the pump filter is in the oil tank itself. I was thinking of removing the small basket strainer on the top of the oil tank and pumping out the oil from the tank and replacing the suction filter and refilling the tank with fresh hydraulic oil. I am aware I will not get all of the old oil out of the system but I believe I will get at least about 80% of it out. It concerns me to empty the complete system and I am fearful of starting up without the pumps and motors somewhat filled with hydraulic oil. In short how do you guys change your hydraulic oil and filters?
When greasing your cutting wheel bearings I pump grease into the bearing until I see grease exiting the bearing. I do this every one to two hours of operation. Does this seem correct?
Thanks in advance,
Joe
Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
Can't help you with the hydro question. I had mine done at the service shop while getting other work done. I'll see what the book says.
As far as the grease goes... that is WAY too much grease. Pull your metal belt cover off, there is probably plenty evidence of your excess. I have to clean mine out every now and then and I only give it 3-4 pumps per DAY. Unless I'm really putting hard hours into it, then I might add a few in the field. I have read about people who never add grease. I can't go there, but I think you might be over doing it.
As far as the grease goes... that is WAY too much grease. Pull your metal belt cover off, there is probably plenty evidence of your excess. I have to clean mine out every now and then and I only give it 3-4 pumps per DAY. Unless I'm really putting hard hours into it, then I might add a few in the field. I have read about people who never add grease. I can't go there, but I think you might be over doing it.
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
Finally used the grinder yesterday and today. Works good; nice going from stump to stump at the same job. Even took down a 20' spruce in a guys backyard in a fenced in area, ground the stump then pulled the tree out tied to the blade
Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
Did you make the change to Greenteeth, if so, 1100s or 900s?
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah, I put the 900s on like my other grinder. I wanted them to be the same. Didn't want to take the plunge on the 1100
Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
I can understand that. One set of parts to keep in inventory...
Have you run it enough to judge production between the 1642 and the Super? I always felt the hydraulics were a little slow on the 1642.
I'm interested to see if the Super will relegate the 1642 to "back up" status. Or, if you will think you don't even need it.
Have you run it enough to judge production between the 1642 and the Super? I always felt the hydraulics were a little slow on the 1642.
I'm interested to see if the Super will relegate the 1642 to "back up" status. Or, if you will think you don't even need it.
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
I had planned on selling the 1642 when I bought this. Yes, the hydros are quicker, and you can take a larger bite. Did an ash stump about 2'/3' in prob 5-7 mins, maybe quicker; wasn't really timing it. Is pretty slow moving to the stump though
Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
Yep. Sometimes I have to check and see if it is really in "hi" speed, hi and low are that close...
I do some work on a golf course where you have to take cart paths a l o n g way to get to the stumps. Makes me dream of a Carlton 7015 with 7 ground speeds... the seventh is labeled "50 yard dash", and then I wake up.
I do some work on a golf course where you have to take cart paths a l o n g way to get to the stumps. Makes me dream of a Carlton 7015 with 7 ground speeds... the seventh is labeled "50 yard dash", and then I wake up.
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
I would have liked one of those carltons too, I don't think they come up too often
outdoorsman0490
ArboristSite Operative
I did 2 real big linden stumps today and a cherry. We took the trees down a while back, someone was supposed to pop them with an excavator, but backed out. The entire root system from all 3 were on the surface. No kidding, these stumps looked like an octopus. I would say the 2 lindens I ground out 25' in diameter. Took 3 hours and I filled my large dump trailer 2 times with the grindings. Total about 6 hours since tractor did the loading.
I couldn't imagine doing stumps like these with a tow behind.
I couldn't imagine doing stumps like these with a tow behind.
Topbuilder
Mouth breathers need not apply.
Now you're talking. Pretty versatile machine eh? I've never hauled chips, that would be a whole different element. I have had customers ask me on the big ones before. I say "imagine the back of your truck heaped up high...twice. They think I'm pulling their leg until they see it all at the end.
Something to add to your check list - The hydraulic return tank cap. It is also the vent. Depending on how dusty your life is, it will completely clog up if not blown out every once in a while.
Have a feel for how many hours you get out of an edge on those 900s yet?
Something to add to your check list - The hydraulic return tank cap. It is also the vent. Depending on how dusty your life is, it will completely clog up if not blown out every once in a while.
Have a feel for how many hours you get out of an edge on those 900s yet?
