Be ready to get your wallet out... I'm good with the Annealeze actually. I've used it so much over the years that I don't bother with Templac either. I can tell by the color of the case mouth when they are annealed correctly ( I turn the lights out to observe) and I can load multiple cases in the machine and walk away and let it do it's thing once I have the dwell time set correctly. The issue I have with any induction annealer, besides the price is, you can only anneal one case at a time and I like to load up at least 50 cases at a time, depending on caliber of course. I even custom machined feed rollers to run smaller straight walled pistol cases., which I do because the heavy crimp on the magnum cases causes the end of the case to work harden and split and big brass, like everything else today isn't cheap.
1400 bucks for the AMP and that don't include the necessary pilots which are extra is almost 5 times what I paid for the Annealeze. Haven't a clue what they cost today as mine is at least 8 years old.
When I'm done processing brass (and I only use John Whidden FL and NS bushing dies, custom machined to the individual chambers on my long range rifles) and anneal them, they look just like factory made cases, right down to how far the annealing process travels down the case body,
My last step prior to sizing them and loading them is annealing them
I only buy (at least in 223 and 308 flavors, OFMB and I always get them uncleaned.
First thing I do is remove all the primers,
I use a reloading press primer tool, none of my dies have primer punches anyway.
Then I tumble them in STS wet media and when dry (I run them through an RCBS case tumbler) to remove the pins and get most of the rinse water out of the cases. Then it's off to one of the lathes and I length resize all of them to SAMMI spec length using a Rotary case trimmer that chucks a 2 flute end mill.
Then I cut the burrs from inside the cases (only Norma, Nosler and Lapua gun drill their flash holes, everyone else including Lake City, punches them and it leaves a burr inside the case and I remove and the burr removal tool I use (in the lathe again) also reams the flash hole when removing the burr, then I chamfer the pockets (all of them whether they are crimped in primers or not don't matter).
Then they get ran in STS once again to remove any and all swarf and remaining powder residue. Then I resize all of them in bushing dies and keep in mind that I inspect each case carefully as I perform the various operations and I toss any and all suspect cases in the scrap bin and that is a continual process that I do with every operation. Any severe dents in the case body or any dent in the shoulder datum equals a toss. If the case mouths are deformed and I cannot insert my deburring tool, they get a quick trip over the appropriate sizing button in a blanking die.
Then they get ran through the Whidden dies for whatever rifle I'm loading for and I set the neck tension from experience and I machine my own die bushings here from oil hard drill rod.
After sizing, I set the primers using a hand primer tool (RCBS) because I can feel when the primers are correctly seated and then I load them with the appropriate propellant and pills and put them away for the eventual 'rainy day' use.
I seat all my bullets with an RCBS micrometer front load bullet seater and I machine all my own seater stems (for whatever bullet I'm seating).
I only use Federal or CCI primers and only Hogdon propellants.
I probably toss about 25% of the cases I buy, sometimes more, depending on how mangled they are. Always buy uncleaned brass in bulk. I don't need the cleaned or 'polished' as they like to refer to it as. They get cleaned here and I'm not paying some outfit to clean them and charge me extra for a needless operation.
On the extreme long range and match loads, I check and correct the concentricity using a Hornady concentricity jig with a dial indicator. Like my match and long range loads to be within 0.002 concentric.
On the long range large bore loads they also get checked for concentricity and corrected as required.
Finally, other than the .223's I never load to SAMMI specs, I always 'jump' the bullets most times 0.005-0.010 off the lands and that requires Wyatt boxes and magazines for all my LR sticks as the standard box won't accept a jumped pill and all the rifle stuff with the exception of the 223 varmint loads are loaded with Berger pills and in the case of handgun rounds, Sierra hollow points.
One thing I NEVER do is advise anyone on propellant loads or tell anyone how much of what I use. Lets just say I usually load well in the excess of what a reloading manual suggests because I jump the bullets, I can do that without fear of anything blowing up in my face.
I build all my loads using my own private 350 yard range and I chronograph every shot as well and record everything, always.
I like most of my loadings to be around 2000fps and not much more because excessive bullet speed erodes the rifling lands and custom barrels are expensive. I like and use Bartlien barrels and Jewel triggers and I install and time my barrels here and install the triggers as well and everything is of course bedded as well.
Guess I do something right as everyone I hunt with (there are 4 of them), only shoot my handloads and they have dropped a ton of large game as well. Between the 4 of us, we have hunted every where except Africa and Europe.
