7/16”.
Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
- Thread starter wampum
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
7/16”.
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
Picked these up today . How did the electric start work?
Hi All,
I'm fairly new here,just been visiting occasionally since last summer when I joined up.I have an old Montgomery Wards Featherweight that was made back in the 1960's.I understand that it's pretty much the same saw as the Remington Mighty Mite.The saw has spark & 100# compression,but when I put fuel in the carb it should at least pop,but it doesn't.I know the compression is low,but it should still pop,right?I'd like to know where I can get a ring for this little marvel?I've already tried Chainsawr & they have nothing.Short of finding an old time Remington dealer I don't know where else to go,other than a place called Otto's where he custom makes rings.If I could find a cylinder with piston & ring that is in relatively good to excellent shape that would be fine too.Thanks everyone in advance!
I'm fairly new here,just been visiting occasionally since last summer when I joined up.I have an old Montgomery Wards Featherweight that was made back in the 1960's.I understand that it's pretty much the same saw as the Remington Mighty Mite.The saw has spark & 100# compression,but when I put fuel in the carb it should at least pop,but it doesn't.I know the compression is low,but it should still pop,right?I'd like to know where I can get a ring for this little marvel?I've already tried Chainsawr & they have nothing.Short of finding an old time Remington dealer I don't know where else to go,other than a place called Otto's where he custom makes rings.If I could find a cylinder with piston & ring that is in relatively good to excellent shape that would be fine too.Thanks everyone in advance!
There's a compression point where a saw won't pop. It varies by model.
A couple of years ago a guy handed me a little Remington carcass. See pics.
I just checked it now and comp is at 125 psi and it has spark. That's all I can say. I was going to pitch it
If it's the model your working on
and you want it, it yours for the asking. I can bring it with me.
By golly Tim,I think you've got just what I'm looking for! Funny how things work out now huh?Yeah,bring anything that you want to toss & I'll go throughit & whatever I don't need/want,then we'll toss it.Make up a list of stuff you need & if I have it & don't need it,it's yours.I was going through my saws just a little bit ago.It looks like the coils on the Frontiers checked out OK,but one is questionable at 7.2 ohms,the other one is 7.75.The points are clean from last yr.,so the only other thing that can be preventing it from having spark are the condensers.I'll try a chip that I got for one of the SEZ's & see what happens.I've got to learn to slow down,when I'm on my feet for too long my back just knots up tighter than a drum.I'm going through a couple of my J'reds too to see what I need for carb kits & fuel lines.This saw collecting business sure is an expensive hobby! Lol.
The slower you go, the cheaper it gets.
I'll bring the little Remington. I don't know anything about the weird oilers on these little saws so you may want to start investigating that as there is a duck bill valve I believe somewhere.
I'll bring the little Remington. I don't know anything about the weird oilers on these little saws so you may want to start investigating that as there is a duck bill valve I believe somewhere.
I'm sure that someone here will know all about the Mighty Mites.Does it run at all?If it just needs a carb rebuild & some fiddling with the oiler,then I'll just mess with that one.When I was about 14 or 15 I started messing around with my dad's old Remington.It was a big monster I do remember,but I can't remember the model.Then he went & bought me a SL9.When I was about ready to buy my house 30 yrs.ago my uncle asked what I was going to do with the saw.I told him I didn't know,& he wanted to know if he could have it to tinker with.I told him to assk my dad because he was the one who bought the saw.My dad gave it to him.About 5 yrs.later my two brothers & I were walking on the old homestead of my grandparents where my uncle lived & lo & behold laying on the ground in the garbage dump was my SL9.My uncle had developed Alzheimer's disease & most likely didn't know what a chainsaw was, let alone where that one came from.I was pissed about the whole situation - my first saw wasted & beyond repair.
Never gave it a second look until I saw your post. I expect it will run on prime. No plug in it. An EZ plug would work. I don't see a manual oiler and if it's a pressurized tank oiler the duck bill is likely a blob of goo.
From what I'm reading it's another impulse oiling system,I hate impulse oiling systems.They rarely work right.I've got one of those systems on my McCulloch Tmberbear saws.They're very fussy,& you can't use a heavy bar oil in it,ya gotta cut the oil with kerosene,or use 10w30.
I think they're a pressurized oil tank which is different. They use an impulse from the crankcase and a check valve to hold the pressure. They work well if the check valve is in good shape.
Downside is that they can continue to oil when shut off unless you crack open the oil tank cap to release the pressure. Some have a tiny hole or some method of bleeding off pressure.
Downside is that they can continue to oil when shut off unless you crack open the oil tank cap to release the pressure. Some have a tiny hole or some method of bleeding off pressure.
Hi all,I've been playing around with the Mighty Mite.I put a clutch together out of two saws to make one good one.I took the oiler off my Monkey Wards saw & put it in the Mighty Mite because the one that was in there was acting like it was starting to seize up,it seems to be working more freely now.The other thing I did,which always seems to give me trouble,is I rebuilt the carb.It has a Tillotson HU 23A.When I went on the Tillotson site there isn't even a HU 23A listed.There's a HU 22 & an HU 24,but no HU 23.The HU 23A has only one needle on it for adjustment.On the Monkey Wards saw it had a HU 6A,which was listed & it has two needles on it.I'd have used the latter one,but there's an opening for only one needle for adjustment.I used a RK-14HU kit on it when I rebuilt it.This is where I ran into trouble - when I put the carb back on the saw I didn't put a gasket on between the carb & the reed block,only because there wasn't one on there when I took the carb off,but I noticed that there was a gasket on the MW saw.When I went to fire up the saw it runs at full throttle & it only runs on the prime I give it.I made sure that my gaskets were in the correct order,& I used the old metering lever because I've been having problems with new metering levers not being adjusted properly.I also put a new filter on it.Any ideas?
You sure do need a gasket between the reed block and the carb. Massive air leak there. The little saw I gave you was messed with by who knows how many. Likely taken apart, couldn't get it running and slapped it back together without the gasket.
That explains why there were so many loose bolts & screws.Every time I tried to put the carb on with a gasket on it kept coming off,so I put a dab of Permatex on the gasket & stuck it to the carb base & I'm letting it sit overnight to cure.I made sure that the holes remained open on the bottom of the carb.No matter where I looked on that saw I could find no duckbills in the oiler.At least with the MW saw it had a manual oiler for a back up.You forgot to tell me Tim that the clutch wasn't screwed on.After you left that day I put a plug in the saw & gave it a shot of fuel in the carb.I gave it a couple of pulls & the clutch went for a ride up the driveway.Lol
I think most of us will admit to sending a clutch into orbit. Much more exciting if you do it inside.
I wouldn’t sweat the different HU models. Just use what fits proper out of the available kit.
Since others have been in there, it may have the wrong gaskets & diaphragm from the get go. Look carefully at the raised ridges.
Some have an adjustable High speed mix screw and some don’t.
1 1/2 turns will get you in the ball park for Low and High.
Since others have been in there, it may have the wrong gaskets & diaphragm from the get go. Look carefully at the raised ridges.
Some have an adjustable High speed mix screw and some don’t.
1 1/2 turns will get you in the ball park for Low and High.
Yes, I’ve deposited some across the street in the school yard. [emoji23]
I don't think anyone has been in that carb since the day it was made.There was one gasket that was adhered to the base of the carb & I had to scrape it off with a razor knife.It wasn't really that dirty,the screen looked fairly clean,but I replaced it anyway.As for the runaway clutch - I couldn't find it,I had my son locate it for me.He's my seeing eye boy.Lol
I have several clutch’s for the MM Bantam and clutch drums.
But, 1/4” pitch x 9 tooth. [emoji13]
But, 1/4” pitch x 9 tooth. [emoji13]
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
BTDT, with a PM700 I no longer have.
I've heard stories of buzz saw blades coming off of their spindle while running... That would leave a mark. [emoji51]
Similar threads
