Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[ML12]

picked this up yesterday. All I know is that it has compression and that the clutch cover is missing a big chunk. I hear there are issues with the automatic oiling system on these? Anyone have some guidance for when I start tearing it apart? Will probably "repair" the clutch cover with some JB Weld, stainless mesh and some rivets.





The fact that there is a 94cc engine packed into that chassis is a little bit amazing.

 

[fossil]

I have one like that. The auto oiler check valve is a NLA rubber duck bill. I have messed with mine some and don't have a replacement that will work. @67L36Driver came up with a replacement using a Lombard check valve. Lombards are like hen's teeth where I live.

When I get some ambition I was going the try to adapt a right angle Homelite ball / spring check valve.

In the mean time, I blocked off the auto oiler with a home made grub screw and ball bearing. The manual oiler still works but I have yet to start the saw and see if it's still sucking bar oil into the cylinder.

Other than that they are pretty simple and have lots of power.

Oddities are the decomp and the fact that it won't oil until the throttle is opened.

Oil flow is controlled by the screw on the left side of the rear handle.

Both mine and Carl's saw have helicoils in the recoil cover screw holes. We would be interested if yours does as well.

 

[67L36Driver]

Picture or reference document to the Homelite check Tim?

I’ve got a Wards 3.6” and a 5.0” needing the check fixed. [emoji57]

Wards 5.0” are my favorite ‘beater’ saw. [emoji16]

 

[67L36Driver]

Super 990 cylinder after clean up.

Plating gone around the exhaust port bridges. [emoji90]

The new rings could snag the edge and peal up more.

 

[fossil]

Picture or reference document to the Homelite check Tim?

I’ve got a Wards 3.6” and a 5.0” needing the check fixed.

Wards 5.0” are my favorite ‘beater’ saw.

One of these Carl. They were used on a SuperXLAO and I think the XL12

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123721236679

See attached IPL for the part location on page 1 part 35

It's definitely not a straight plug and play part.

 

[67L36Driver]

One of these Carl. They were used on a SuperXLAO and I think the XL12

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123721236679

See attached IPL for the part location on page 1 part 35

It's definitely not a straight plug and play part.

Crap! Just dumped an XL-12 carcass two months ago. [emoji20]

Go thru my XL-101 type stuff next. [emoji1696]

 

[fossil]

Crap! Just dumped an XL-12 carcass two months ago. [emoji20]

Go thru my XL-101 type stuff next. [emoji1696]

There's a straight check valve on the side of the oil tank, The one at the top. I'm not sure if you can make that work.

 

[Marine-piper]

My Remington Super 75...again!

Homelite collector in training [emoji879]

 

[ML12]

I have one like that. The auto oiler check valve is a NLA rubber duck bill. I have messed with mine some and don't have a replacement that will work. @67L36Driver came up with a replacement using a Lombard check valve. Lombards are like hen's teeth where I live.

When I get some ambition I was going the try to adapt a right angle Homelite ball / spring check valve.

In the mean time, I blocked off the auto oiler with a home made grub screw and ball bearing. The manual oiler still works but I have yet to start the saw and see if it's still sucking bar oil into the cylinder.

Other than that they are pretty simple and have lots of power.

Oddities are the decomp and the fact that it won't oil until the throttle is opened.

Oil flow is controlled by the screw on the left side of the rear handle.

Both mine and Carl's saw have helicoils in the recoil cover screw holes. We would be interested if yours does as well.

Can confirm that mine has helicoils in the recoil cover screw holes. The primer still feel good too, i'm shocked.

I will probably try and get my hands on a suitable 90 degree fitting and then machine it/something to make it a check valve. Am I right that they take the pressure pulse off the top of the cylinder and not the bottom end? that seems like a terrible idea.

 

[fossil]

The oil tank pressure comes from the tube in the FW side of the cylinder. I can't remember how far up the cylinder it was. I had a Solo Rex that had a similar oiler system. The only difference was that it worked. I suspect it had a metal check valve rather than rubber.

 

[fossil]

Can confirm that mine has helicoils in the recoil cover screw holes. The primer still feel good too, i'm shocked.

Thanks for getting back on the helicoils. I'm guessing at this point they may have been factory installed.

 

[67L36Driver]

The oil tank pressure comes from the tube in the FW side of the cylinder. I can't remember how far up the cylinder it was. I had a Solo Rex that had a similar oiler system. The only difference was that it worked. I suspect it had a metal check valve rather than rubber.

Port is about a third of the way up from the transfers if I remember correctly.

Remember to burp the oil tank pressure when done running the saw. Avoid a large puddle.

 

[heimannm]

All cleaned up and ready to go...except for the starter. This saw was equipped with the Fairbanks Morse starter but the original owner misplaced the starter/cover and the one I bought off e-Bay was the Remington starter so I am waiting for an operating FM starter to arrive. In any case, it looks nice enough now. I did spin it over with a drill after giving it a bit of a prime and it popped right off.







Mark

 

[Marine-piper]

Hey Mark you wouldn't happen to know anything about this type of starter from Strunk would you?
I'm looking for the recoil side piece.

Homelite collector in training [emoji879]

 

[heimannm]

I have not worked on one like that, at least not that I recall.

My only Strunk has the Fairbanks Morse starter.

Mark

 

[Marine-piper]

I can't find an IPL so I'm not even sure if the part is serviceable or not.
I just found the manufacturer's name under surface rust.

Homelite collector in training [emoji879]

 

[Marine-piper]

My starter hack, a Fairbanks Morse starter cup and pullcord.

Homelite collector in training [emoji879]

 

[67L36Driver]

Late summer 1953 Dad returned from Korea. His first purchase was a power mower. A few years later it became my job to mow the lawn. About once a season I’d have to rob a length of Mom’s clothesline for starting the Lauson engine.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I just bought a SL7 A , does anyone have literature on it? It has "some assembly required " .
I'd like to confirm the correct carburetor number also, it's an HS model tillotson. I'll be taking it apart and see if mine has heli-coils also.

 

[fossil]

Not much help but my PL-7A has an HS-74A on it.