Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[edju1958]

I've had a pair of Super 754's since April.One of them I got running right away,the other was a giant PITA.
My son's buddy gave me a cheapo garage sale wrench & told me to cannabalize it if I needed to for the carb nuts.
Today I put it to the bench grinder & made it to fit on those nuts to take them off.Taking them off is no problem,but putting them back on might be challenging.
Anyway the carb is off saw #2 that I can only get a pop out of every now & then.I took the top cover off & it was spotless.When I disconnected the fuel line there was fuel right there.It's gonna need a new fuel line & a clamp or 2.
Saw #1 that I had running I was going to take that carb off too till I found the fuel line disconnected on the bottom side.I reconnected it & I'll see about putting fuel in it tomorrow & see if I can get it running again.

 

[67L36Driver]

It helps to use a cut off disc in a Dremel and reduce the length of the carb studs. You don’t need any excess sticking out past the nut. [emoji106]

Best go is just remove the fuel tank/reed plate with carb attached. Lot less grief. Make new gaskets.

 

[edju1958]

As I remember from yesterday there wasn't any excess stud thread sticking out past the nut,& yes the nuts were tight.I don't have a Dremel tool either,so I'll just deal with what tools I have at my disposal.I've dealt with situations like this before thanks to moron engineers who couldn't design a user friendly saw if their life depended on it.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

As I remember from yesterday there wasn't any excess stud thread sticking out past the nut,& yes the nuts were tight.I don't have a Dremel tool either,so I'll just deal with what tools I have at my disposal.I've dealt with situations like this before thanks to moron engineers who couldn't design a user friendly saw if their life depended on it.

Don't be sore now Ed, how do you think srrvice technicians make money?

 

[edju1958]

The thing is either you have to have special tools to work on these saws,or be able to fabricate your own.Fortunately I was able to fabricate the spark plug wrench & the wrench needeed to take the carb nuts off.The fulcrum lever screw was another treat.I had to take the spacer off to get at the screw,I almost stripped the head off.

 

[Tim Winslade]

IPL's for your perusal.

Your welcome

 

[edju1958]

I was going through my bolt bin looking for a particular bolt for my Poulan 245A & I'll be damned if I didn't find that elusive race for the clutch drum on my SL9.I've only been looking for it for about 4 months now.I have no idea how it got in there.

 

[Tim Winslade]

I was going through my bolt bin looking for a particular bolt for my Poulan 245A & I'll be damned if I didn't find that elusive race for the clutch drum on my SL9.I've only been looking for it for about 4 months now.I have no idea how it got in there.

I'm the same i find random other bits in my parts bins all the time.

 

[GaryT1946]

Where?.......................................

Hi, Do you know of any source for old Remington chainsaw parts inventory.
Especially Gaskets, looking for the following 63575, 40893, 49124, 49411, 49412
Would really appreciate any help, Thanks Gary

 

[Tim Winslade]

Hi, Do you know of any source for old Remington chainsaw parts inventory.
Especially Gaskets, looking for the following 63575, 40893, 49124, 49411, 49412
Would really appreciate any help, Thanks Gary

I live in NZ and would love to know the same. I've got odd bit off ebay but i only have so many organs to harvest

 

[ML12]

Does anyone have the numbers for the crank seals on a Super 754?
My measurements get me 0.75 x 1 on the flywheel and 1 x ~1.445 on the PTO, can someone confirm these?

Thanks in advance!

 

[ML12]

Pics of the saw:





Got it all apart and cleaned (lost almost all of the remaining paint) so it'll get blasted, and re-painted. Mechanically everything is perfect, although I did note that there are extra counterweights welded to the crank, not sure if all super 754s came this way? Seems odd.

Its only my 4th Remington as I don't see many of these around here.

 

[fossil]

Does anyone have the numbers for the crank seals on a Super 754?
My measurements get me 0.75 x 1 on the flywheel and 1 x ~1.445 on the PTO, can someone confirm these?

Thanks in advance!

Looks to be the same as my 990 seals

Remington (990)

PTO side seal Remington PN 60058 replace with common seal OD 1.437" ID 1.000" width 0,25" (Rides on clutch drum extension)

FW side seal Remington PN 48529 OD 1.25" ID 0.75" width actual 0.312" Exact replacement is SKF 7465 (was around $20). No reason you couldn't use a lower cost seal.

 

[cbfarmall]

Does anyone have the numbers for the crank seals on a Super 754?
My measurements get me 0.75 x 1 on the flywheel and 1 x ~1.445 on the PTO, can someone confirm these?

Thanks in advance!

CR9838 and CR7443 are the 2 seals you need. For gear drives, if you ever encounter one, use 2 CR7443s. Also, the clutch drum has a teeny-tiny little seal in there. CR6105s seem to fit, but I would avoid messing with this one unless you have continuing idle issues.

 

[edju1958]

Hi guys,I worked on eliminating the auto-oiler on my SL-9 the other day by putting a zip tie under the valve that's operated by the throttle trigger.I fired up the saw & noticed that after I shut it off that the saw had a sizeable oil puddle under where the bar's oil pad is.I unscrewed the oil cap & heard pressure come out.The leaking stopped,but I noticed that the auto oiler is working now whereas it was blowing out through the exhaust previously.
Something else not related that I thought I'd just throw out here - the saw has an original Atom chip in it.I was totally surprised when I saw that.It also didn't have a wire going from the kill switch to the coil,so the only way it was being shut off was by choking it out.That has been rectified.

 

[67L36Driver]

Pull the zip tie out and continue to march. [emoji106]

When done running, loosen the oil cap to ‘burp’ tank pressure.

 

[ML12]

Finished off the Super 754 last night. No decals, but I can't justify the cost for them (Canadian dollar exchange rate and shipping makes the decal set nearly $70 and the saw only cost me $50)

Pretty quick saw to assemble, going to let it sit a while before I try running it. It has primer, color and then a 2 part clear coat. New seals, carb kit, and gaskets, rings and bearings were fine so I re-used them.





What do you all use for doing the sparkplug on these? when I disassembled it I just left the plug in until I had the block out. Also, CJ6 sparkplug for these right?

 

[67L36Driver]

Champ J6J was original. Good luck finding one. [emoji19]

Plug wrench originally was a 3/16” thick open end that would fit between the top fin of the cylinder and the housing.

Do not use an extender tip plug as the piston crown will hit the electrode.

 

[edju1958]

I found a scrench on eBay that had the 13/16 socket.I took a hacksaw to the other end,cut it off even with the screwdriver & it works fine.I had to fiddle with it just a bit to get it down in the recess for the plug.
I found bunches of J6J plugs on eBay.I got the NGK equivalents too.

 

[edju1958]

Hi fellas,I'm looking for a set of bar plates for an SL9.I got this little gem running today with a different recoil that I picked up over the summer & I had to put a wire from the switch to the coil.It works good.The other thing is some ass hat partially stripped one of the bar studs by putting a nut on it that wasn't right.When something like that happens,doesn't anyone ever go to a hardware store to try to find a nut that's right?