Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[67L36Driver]

Got 75A #2 running after a fashion.

I used the old diaphragms out of the carb on 75A #1 since they were not glass pane stiff. Ran him about twenty minutes. The compression jumped all the way up to 100psi. Zowie!

We are going to blow this one apart for rings and such first.

 

[sawdust21]

I used the old diaphragms out of the carb on 75A #1 since they were not glass pane stiff. Ran him about twenty minutes. The compression jumped all the way up to 100psi. Zowie!

We are going to blow this one apart for rings and such first.

For future reference, where do you get your rings? Congrats on the compression jump...not unusual though. Dry compression test usually is low on a sitter. The oil seals the rings up a bit; speaking of which, a couple of runner saws I recently purchased were obviously being run on SAE 30 weight. Have you run into same? Is this just old school protocol, or is there some advantage to running the 30 wt. vs. 2 cycle oil? Any thoughts?:msp_confused:

 

[67L36Driver]

P.M.ed the link on the rings.

The very first thing I do with a 'new to me' saw is dump the fuel tank contents. Several have obviously contained the 16:1 motor oil mix. and one smoked so badly that I suspect someone dumped a 4oz bottle of oil in the tank (Mac 2.0" top handle) and then filled it with gas. Yikes!

My saw engines have to share fuel with my Lawnboy mower so we compromised on 36:1.

I wouldn't run the old motor oil mix on a bet.

 

[sawdust21]

P.M.ed the link on the rings.

The very first thing I do with a 'new to me' saw is dump the fuel tank contents. Several have obviously contained the 16:1 motor oil mix. and one smoked so badly that I suspect someone dumped a 4oz bottle of oil in the tank (Mac 2.0" top handle) and then filled it with gas. Yikes!

My saw engines have to share fuel with my Lawnboy mower so we compromised on 36:1.

I wouldn't run the old motor oil mix on a bet.

I still run 16:1 2-cycle. I've heard that you can lean it out with the newer 2-cycle oil and that it burns cooler at the leaner mix....but I'm hesitant. Don't know what the leaner mix would do to the seals and such.:msp_unsure:

 

[sawdust21]

Remington Log Masters

O.K....I know there's gotta be more than a couple of you guys out there who own log masters. I scored two of them this week, so howz about sharing some more photos? I would like to see how nice mine is gonna look when it's done. Anybody out there with a solution for the 7/16" pitch chain?:help:

 

[67L36Driver]

I still run 16:1 2-cycle. I've heard that you can lean it out with the newer 2-cycle oil and that it burns cooler at the leaner mix....but I'm hesitant. Don't know what the leaner mix would do to the seals and such.:msp_unsure:

With the synthetic oil, 16:1 really won't hurt anything i believe. Mostly smoke a lot. Mostly you need an ashless oil that won't leave any deposits.

Beg for 7/16" chain on the swap meet thread and be prepared to cobble short lengths together with .404 presets.

 

[sawdust21]

With the synthetic oil, 16:1 really won't hurt anything i believe. Mostly smoke a lot. Mostly you need an ashless oil that won't leave any deposits.

Beg for 7/16" chain on the swap meet thread and be prepared to cobble short lengths together with .404 presets.

Thanks...I feel better, I think. I believe I saw a video of Crane running 3/8 pitch on his. I'll backtrack and see if that is the case. Maybe he'll have some info.

 

[sawdust21]

Thanks...I feel better, I think. I believe I saw a video of Crane running 3/8 pitch on his. I'll backtrack and see if that is the case. Maybe he'll have some info.

Nope, Crane is running .404 on his. Wonder how he swapped that over? Hmmmmmm:msp_unsure:

 

[sawdust21]

Calling all Remington/Mall gearheads!

Well, have we just flittered out? It's quieter than a crypt in here. Carl and I have been wrestling with sprocket issues. There's gotta be someone out there whose found the secret to keeping these beautiful saws in working condition. Don't matter how good they run, if you can hook that power up to the chain, it's all to no avail; so let's share some knowledge. I'm betting Mr. Bow Saw has some experience with this, or maybe Crane, or Randy Mac or who knows who else. If it's really top secret stuff, just PM me. I am but a novice, seeking wisdom at the feet of those who have blazed the path before me.

 

[moparman]

I still run 16:1 2-cycle. I've heard that you can lean it out with the newer 2-cycle oil and that it burns cooler at the leaner mix....but I'm hesitant. Don't know what the leaner mix would do to the seals and such.:msp_unsure:

When saws ran 8:1 - 16:1 oil; motor oil was all that was used. At that time if the manufacturers sold branded oil mix, it was still only 30 WT motor oil. Modern 2 cycle oil is vastly superior and contains the necessary additives needed for hot running 2 cycle air cooled engines - pay a little bit more and buy synthetic 2 cycle oil - much better for modern engines, and much better for these vintage engines. The oil that is mixed with the gasoline does not burn, so it makes no different to engine temperature. The only difference in temperature is when modern 40:1 or 50:1 oil is mixed at this high ratio and used in a saw that has carburetor adjusted for a low ration like 16:1. The carburetor works off fuel volume, so the high ratio fuel mix has more gasoline per volume than the low ratio mix - this means that the high ratio mix runs richer and probably cooler. However vintage engines normally need more oil to keep them properly lubricated, so it not wise to run them with 40:1 or 50:1 unless you are not concerned about scuffs or seizures. I think that you are pretty safe with 24:1 - 32:1 mix with synthetic 2 cycle oil sold for chainsaw/trimmer use. Don't use ashless 2 cycle oil in an air cooled 2 cycle engine because they don't provide the scuff resistance required in hotter running air cooled engines - this type of oil is intended for use in outboard water cooled engines which run much cooler.

 

[sawdust21]

When saws ran 8:1 - 16:1 oil; motor oil was all that was used. At that time if the manufacturers sold branded oil mix, it was still only 30 WT motor oil. Modern 2 cycle oil is vastly superior and contains the necessary additives needed for hot running 2 cycle air cooled engines - pay a little bit more and buy synthetic 2 cycle oil - much better for modern engines, and much better for these vintage engines. The oil that is mixed with the gasoline does not burn, so it makes no different to engine temperature. The only difference in temperature is when modern 40:1 or 50:1 oil is mixed at this high ratio and used in a saw that has carburetor adjusted for a low ration like 16:1. The carburetor works off fuel volume, so the high ratio fuel mix has more gasoline per volume than the low ratio mix - this means that the high ratio mix runs richer and probably cooler. However vintage engines normally need more oil to keep them properly lubricated, so it not wise to run them with 40:1 or 50:1 unless you are not concerned about scuffs or seizures. I think that you are pretty safe with 24:1 - 32:1 mix with synthetic 2 cycle oil sold for chainsaw/trimmer use. Don't use ashless 2 cycle oil in an air cooled 2 cycle engine because they don't provide the scuff resistance required in hotter running air cooled engines - this type of oil is intended for use in outboard water cooled engines which run much cooler.

Thanks for that Moparman. I'll stick with my 16:1 fuel mix.:msp_smile:

 

[turtle561]

mall circular saw

View attachment 184486
View attachment 184487
seen at a local engine show last year. mr. bow saw's brochure reminded me i had pics, which took awhile to find. it had a seat belt to keep you up against the handle bars. kickback musta been a b**** ! check out those crazy mag wheels.

 

[hutchkinkaid]

When saws ran 8:1 - 16:1 oil; motor oil was all that was used. At that time if the manufacturers sold branded oil mix, it was still only 30 WT motor oil. Modern 2 cycle oil is vastly superior and contains the necessary additives needed for hot running 2 cycle air cooled engines - pay a little bit more and buy synthetic 2 cycle oil - much better for modern engines, and much better for these vintage engines. The oil that is mixed with the gasoline does not burn, so it makes no different to engine temperature. The only difference in temperature is when modern 40:1 or 50:1 oil is mixed at this high ratio and used in a saw that has carburetor adjusted for a low ration like 16:1. The carburetor works off fuel volume, so the high ratio fuel mix has more gasoline per volume than the low ratio mix - this means that the high ratio mix runs richer and probably cooler. However vintage engines normally need more oil to keep them properly lubricated, so it not wise to run them with 40:1 or 50:1 unless you are not concerned about scuffs or seizures. I think that you are pretty safe with 24:1 - 32:1 mix with synthetic 2 cycle oil sold for chainsaw/trimmer use. Don't use ashless 2 cycle oil in an air cooled 2 cycle engine because they don't provide the scuff resistance required in hotter running air cooled engines - this type of oil is intended for use in outboard water cooled engines which run much cooler.

Interesting, I have an SL4 and have run it (not a lot) on both 40 and 50 to 1 ratios...

Why would a piston/cylinder on an older saw (assuming it's in good shape to begin with) be more likely to scuff or seize while running a good synthetic at 40 or 50 to 1 than a newer saw?

I assumed the lubrication advantages that allow the use of those mixtures would protect the parts in an old engine the same as they do a new saw, or have there been changes in design along the way that allow the use of less oil in the mix?

Less smoke and less carbon is better, right, long as you're not frying the thing?

 

[moparman]

Interesting, I have an SL4 and have run it (not a lot) on both 40 and 50 to 1 ratios...

Why would a piston/cylinder on an older saw (assuming it's in good shape to begin with) be more likely to scuff or seize while running a good synthetic at 40 or 50 to 1 than a newer saw?

I assumed the lubrication advantages that allow the use of those mixtures would protect the parts in an old engine the same as they do a new saw, or have there been changes in design along the way that allow the use of less oil in the mix?

Less smoke and less carbon is better, right, long as you're not frying the thing?

There are many reasons that newer engines can run with a leaner oil mix than the old saws. Pistons for new engines are not round like old pistons, they are elliptical and are profiled for a better fit with the cylinder bore distortion when it reachs operating temperature. All air cooled cylinders distort from a hot exhaust port very close to the transfer ports cooled by the cool air/fuel charge. The flywheel side of cylinder is always cooler than the opposite side. Many modern pistons have a special machined finish on the skirt to help retain some lubrication. The piston and cylinder materials are better in most modern engines to reduce wear and improve heat distribution. Bare bore aluminum cylinders or plated aluminum cylinders carry heat away from piston better than aluminum cylinders with a pressed in cast iron liner. Modern plated cylinders have very sophisticated surface finishes created by very expensive 2 or 3 stage hones to provide improved bearing surfaces for rings and correct lubrication retention. I don't know how many times people have mentioned how they fixed a cylinder by honing it; if they know how much damage they were doing to their cylinder, they would immediately throw their hone as far away as possible. Pistons and cylinders are machined more accurately now and their piston and cylinder fits are now optimized. Old engines carbon up so bad because their clearance is too great and their piston design with a big chamfer on top are some of the worst contributors to carboned (stuck) piston rings. Crankpin and piston pin bearing materials are much better now, their needle cage designs are much better, their crankpin bearings don't have split needle cages, and their tolerances are held tighter.
Most good quality air cooled 2 cycle oils smoke less and carbon less than same mixed cheap oils.
I was only recommending to use about 32:1 mix for vintage engines; however if someone wants to run 100:1 in them, more power to them.

 

[hutchkinkaid]

There are many reasons that newer engines can run with a leaner oil mix than the old saws. Pistons for new engines are not round like old pistons, they are elliptical and are profiled for a better fit with the cylinder bore distortion when it reachs operating temperature. All air cooled cylinders distort from a hot exhaust port very close to the transfer ports cooled by the cool air/fuel charge. The flywheel side of cylinder is always cooler than the opposite side. Many modern pistons have a special machined finish on the skirt to help retain some lubrication. The piston and cylinder materials are better in most modern engines to reduce wear and improve heat distribution. Bare bore aluminum cylinders or plated aluminum cylinders carry heat away from piston better than aluminum cylinders with a pressed in cast iron liner. Modern plated cylinders have very sophisticated surface finishes created by very expensive 2 or 3 stage hones to provide improved bearing surfaces for rings and correct lubrication retention. I don't know how many times people have mentioned how they fixed a cylinder by honing it; if they know how much damage they were doing to their cylinder, they would immediately throw their hone as far away as possible. Pistons and cylinders are machined more accurately now and their piston and cylinder fits are now optimized. Old engines carbon up so bad because their clearance is too great and their piston design with a big chamfer on top are some of the worst contributors to carboned (stuck) piston rings. Crankpin and piston pin bearing materials are much better now, their needle cage designs are much better, their crankpin bearings don't have split needle cages, and their tolerances are held tighter.
Most good quality air cooled 2 cycle oils smoke less and carbon less than same mixed cheap oils.
I was only recommending to use about 32:1 mix for vintage engines; however if someone wants to run 100:1 in them, more power to them.

Thanks for the detailed reply.

No doubt the new engines are better made all the way around, but all those improvements have raised the speed at which the engines run and increased the heat and loads that the oil is expected to withstand. As you said. the new oils are far superior, doing a harder job with a leaner mix... I guess I am betting that an older saw is not as stressed as a new saw that spins twice as fast, and will be okay with the same ratio that protects the new ones...

Anyway, interesting points.

 

[sawdust21]

Logmaster coil repair

Anybody out there had any experience with coil repair for the old Logmaster saws? I remember reading about it somewhere in one of these threads. Something about packing it with dielectric grease and then sealing it up with tape???? :msp_confused: One of the two I have running is breaking up at the high end, and I'm guessing it has something to do with the cracked coil. Any ideas?

 

[67L36Driver]

Anybody out there had any experience with coil repair for the old Logmaster saws? I remember reading about it somewhere in one of these threads. Something about packing it with dielectric grease and then sealing it up with tape???? :msp_confused: One of the two I have running is breaking up at the high end, and I'm guessing it has something to do with the cracked coil. Any ideas?

pioneerguy600 posted about grooveing out the cracks and resealing with epoxy.

Snoop around Lawnmower shops as the under-flywheel ignitions were made by Wico and Phelon. Not every mfgr. feels the need to re-invent the wheel. For example, my Poulan 361, Pioneer 1200 and my red Homie XL-12 all have a nearly identical Wico magneto ignition.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Anybody out there had any experience with coil repair for the old Logmaster saws? I remember reading about it somewhere in one of these threads. Something about packing it with dielectric grease and then sealing it up with tape???? :msp_confused: One of the two I have running is breaking up at the high end, and I'm guessing it has something to do with the cracked coil. Any ideas?

I fixed the one on my GP. Packed the cracks with thick silicone grease - I used dow corning 111 but any dielectric should work - and then wrap it with electrical tape. I was surprised the tape held on the silicone areas but so far so good. Stopped the coil shorting and the saw runs great. I thought about trying silicone RTV but I seem to remember that it could conduct at high voltages.

You can thank Lewis Brander for this - he posted it a couple years ago.

 

[hutchkinkaid]

SL, PL-4 throttle lock

Hey all,

My trigger lock vibrated off last fall, I've been propping open the throttle with a round file anybody got one of these around? Would love a parts saw, but who wouldn't right?

Thanks

 

[sawbones]

With the synthetic oil, 16:1 really won't hurt anything i believe. Mostly smoke a lot. Mostly you need an ashless oil that won't leave any deposits.

Beg for 7/16" chain on the swap meet thread and be prepared to cobble short lengths together with .404 presets.

there are 7/16 presets on ebay right now but i stock them too.