Remington oiler info or spec.

[bobbyb13]

Yeah I am addicted to old remington's, I'll blame it on my father. The check valve for the pressurized oil resivoir goes out on these old saws, thus you have maximum smoke. I can and do make check valves. I am going to use a steel ball, spring and a drilled set screw. I just need to know the psi that the valve needs to open to pressurize the tank. Any info? suggestions? I am going to make some so any who needs one, I'll furnish it at material cost. Probably 3 to 5 bucks.

 

[PES+]

open at ambient atmospheric pressure no opening pressure. Close at anthing below AAP

 

[PES+]

That's the way the stock valve works......if you make it adjustable you can adjust the amount of oil and that would be a good thing......

There may have been an adjustable one on some Remingtons but I have only seen pop valves non adjust

 

[bobbyb13]

When the atmospheric pressure is exclued from the equation, you are dealing with the over presure created by the downstroke of the piston, which as best I can measure with a used valve I have is 2 to 2.3 psi. Now I drilled the case and used a pipe plug to seal it. I can turn the set screw to increase pressure in the reservoir or lower it with out breaking the integrity of the tank.

 

[PES+]

The problem you will run into

The crankcase pressure is always changing and yes you have the correct pressure but only at one RPM dpending upon engine speed/load and throttle position saws can and do run with no pressure above atmosphere in the crakcase.

The Remi is a reed induction no? I forget

 

[bobbyb13]

You are correct on all counts. With what I am doing, testing now, Is higher rpm more oil, lower rpm less oil with one setting. The oil pump system is far better. I am just tinkering with this old school technnology to maybe keep more of these old saws "humping along". Old man tinkering is what it amounts to.

 

[PES+]

And yes it is a reed saw......pressure oilers don't work in piston port

I am tired.......oye

 

[bobbyb13]

Well, Pest it is a pleasure, theorizing with you. The knowledge of this board is unbelievable.

 

[cbfarmall]

I worked on one of those Remingtons a couple years ago--a PL5 or SL5--still up in my friend's loft. Anyway, piston was burned up and it smoked like crazy. Did a little troubleshooting and found the oiler check valve was trashed. It didn't just go bad, the guts of it were missing. Straight shot from the oil tank to the crankcase. I just plugged it up and went with the manual oiler. Ran the saw for a bit, but it was the piston was too far gone to give much power.

Those old reed engine sure will run on a nasty piston. A piston-ported saw would have died a long time ago.

Nice thing about that saw is the roller nose bar. I think I might go steal it for my 066.

Chris B.

 

[bobbyb13]

Farmall. With limited but growing knowledge of these old reed saws. If you get the carb set to where it is not leaning out and damaging your saw, The old things will run pretty clean. But they are 30 to 40 years old. Like I said I'm retired other than my Mustang, and Torino this has turned in to my winter habit.