Removing invasives/pulling up by roots
- Thread starter Mad Professor
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Also trying to re-establish/help hard/soft mast trees, and native understory plants of value: Leeks, ginseng (problems with voles and turkeys), cohosh, mushrooms (morels, hen of the woods, chicken/sulfur).........
Here are two of the brush/sapling pullers I made.
The one on the left works well on saplings because it gets a grip. I use it mostly on Russian/Autumn Olive. It also works well on large barberry if I can get it close to the ground.
The one on the right originally had a small link chain but tended to slide off smaller stuff. I just remade it with a garage door opener chain. I haven't used it yet but it will probably introduce some of its own problems like no kinks allowed and it won't have the strength of other chains. But it will only be used on smaller stuff. The chain links should grab well so it may be a winner.
The one on the left works well on saplings because it gets a grip. I use it mostly on Russian/Autumn Olive. It also works well on large barberry if I can get it close to the ground.
The one on the right originally had a small link chain but tended to slide off smaller stuff. I just remade it with a garage door opener chain. I haven't used it yet but it will probably introduce some of its own problems like no kinks allowed and it won't have the strength of other chains. But it will only be used on smaller stuff. The chain links should grab well so it may be a winner.
I like the drive link chain. The strength issue might be solved by employing a large chain used on motorcycles. A cycle shop should be able to fix you up with a worn out HD chain for free or next to nothing. The biggest ones are ~ 10,000-16,000 lbs tensile strength when new. Need a strong way to secure both ends?
I worked at a Honda/Suzuki dealership many years ago, and my childhood friend still owns the shop. I might be paying him (and the scrap yard for pipe) a visit and ask if the has any big chains in the scrap pile.
I have acetylene torches and stick welder, project would be pretty inexpensive.
Your thoughts on motorcycle chain with you design?
If I had the $$$$$$$ for one of those I wouldn't be doing much by hand.
I think that is a great idea. I think the flatness of the link parts will dig into the target. I know that some farm machinery like harvesters use these type on chains but they are probably too big. I forgot about motorcycles. A motorcycle's would be a good compromise and next step up.
You're right about the ends. I used homemade split rings but they have to be small enough to fit through the pipe. I smushed mine in a vice to give them an oval shape. It would probably be better to use a clevis design instead.
Here is how I make split rings:
https://www.instructables.com/Rings-and-Split-Rings/
Even big MC chain the pins are pretty small ~ 1/4".
I was thinking of some 1/4" grade 8 bolts then use a larger double clevis with some washers and nuts, to hook up pull end. The 1/4" bolt on one end to connect MC chain, and with the double clevis big enough for a length of chain w/clevis hook on the other.
You could weld a nut onto the outside of the pipe to secure the other end with similar 1/4" bolt.
not ownership but rent or hire
ownership is $300K+
I'm not sure what you meant by "weld a nut onto the outside of the pipe to secure the other end". While most likely on your hands and knees you have the chain going through the pipe once, then you wrap it around the tree/shrub, then pass it back through the pipe and secure it to the outside of the pipe. Then cinch it snug. When I'm in that situation I prefer to just hook something and get out. Your description does give me some ideas on how to attach that end without having to pass something bigger than the chain back through the pipe.
I have a few MC shops nearby. I'll stop by and try my luck getting a decommissioned chain. For this limited work would a punch and hammer suffice for removing the pins?
I think the pull end should have a clevis-chain swivel connector because I assume the MC chain is designed for its full capacity based a straight away pull. So there should not be any twisting when it's under tension.
thenne1713
ArboristSite Guru
CONSIDER Identifying LOW points/area, and putting ditch or pond/ both in that area so that acres drain to it? This also gives fill dirt to put into other areas to build them up?
JimCanonTheTreeMan
New Member
Our crew has done things very similar to this before and it is highly effective.
A large heavy tarp works excellent at killing off mowed down brush, spray then cover with the tarp for 30 days. It blocks out the light and prevents rain from washing away the herbicide. Adding a few drops of liquid dish soap to herbicide can make it 2x as effective. Herbicides are most effective over 80 degrees, the higher the temperature the faster it works. Its also worth looking into what soil ph the invasive species thrive at vs the local then adjust it to hinder or even kill the invasives. Ph altering is slow and will last a good long while once shifted plus its pretty darn cheap to apply lime/Sulphur plus its pretty non toxic.
Agreed...Garlon is more effective in winter. Especially Garlon 4.
Tordon is actually cheaper than Garlon...
Tordon is actually cheaper than Garlon...
Thanks for the fast answer(S) It is a good thing I asked. I was going to choose between Tordon or Garlon 3 Wasn't considering Garlon 4. I am going to dose the stump (and probably brush it on)... Dare I suggest - diesel fuel as an oil carrier. No wet lands just river bottom ground less than an acre. I want to cut not spray due to being in town limits and drift. Even without drift farmers around here spray brush and Sometimes heat vapors similar to fog with the (?) herbicide rise out of the hollows and are blamed for neighboring shrubbery and tree loss.
Yes...diesel is a good carrier for Garlon 4. Kerosene too - a little thinner and smells a little less.
This mix works great as a basal bark spray on thin-barked trees. Just spray it right on the bark all the way around the tree from about 3' up down to the ground and the tree will die. It takes significantly more product to do this vs. treating cut stumps. I'm not sure it is a big time saver either. On smaller trees, I can have it cut off and squirted as quickly as spraying all the way around. But it is an option.
For cut stumps, just get it on the outer ring of the stump and maybe a little onto the bark. No need to treat the middle.
Volatilization: probably coming from dicamba on the farms. Maybe 2, 4-D. Well documented problem with dicamba. Garlon 4 can move a little bit. It is an ester formulation while Garlon 3 is an ammine formulation. This is only a problem if temps are over 80-85 degrees (F) or so. Below that, it won't readily volatilize.
This mix works great as a basal bark spray on thin-barked trees. Just spray it right on the bark all the way around the tree from about 3' up down to the ground and the tree will die. It takes significantly more product to do this vs. treating cut stumps. I'm not sure it is a big time saver either. On smaller trees, I can have it cut off and squirted as quickly as spraying all the way around. But it is an option.
For cut stumps, just get it on the outer ring of the stump and maybe a little onto the bark. No need to treat the middle.
Volatilization: probably coming from dicamba on the farms. Maybe 2, 4-D. Well documented problem with dicamba. Garlon 4 can move a little bit. It is an ester formulation while Garlon 3 is an ammine formulation. This is only a problem if temps are over 80-85 degrees (F) or so. Below that, it won't readily volatilize.
Double THANKS for your detailed answers. I saw a quote another member had here on AS. Linus Van Pelt (Peanuts) Pointing out the obvious differences between an amateur and a Professional. Your posts really impress me by the simplicity (My ability to understand them) yet concise .. Thanks
I am seeing "Triclopyr 4" as being an alternative to "Garlon 4". Any objections?
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