Resurrecting imbalanced Milwaukee M12 battery

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OM617YOTA

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Pushed one of my M12 batteries a bit too far with my tire inflator and got the dreaded red/green blinking light of death when I stuck it on the charger. No chargy-chargy.

These batteries are made up of three sets of li-on cells in series to get to 12v nominal. There are sensing leads and contacts so the charger can measure the voltage of each cell, and if they get too imbalanced, shuts down charging and you get the red/green blinking light of death. There should have been a cell balancing system, but this is just a monitoring and "error - go buy a new battery" system. Note below, voltages are all different - the 4.002v cell was after charging. Resistors in the first pic were just convenient conductive objects of the right size to stick in the battery slots and get measurements.

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Would be convenient if you could charge through these monitoring contacts, right? Too convenient - there's a high ohm resistor inline, likely to prevent short circuit. Could still be done, but would take weeks.

Disassemble the pack, hook the benchtop power supply directly to the cells, and let the electrons start flowing. To keep charging amps low, I kept charge voltage only slightly above cell voltage, bumping it up here and there as the cells charged. Have to be careful at this stage, with these connections I've bypassed the battery monitoring system and all the circuit protection.

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Charged all the cells to 4v, then reassembled and slapped it on the Milwaukee charger. Success, no red/green blinking light of death, and it took a full charge.

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M18 batteries don't seem to suffer from this problem, I think they have an actual cell balancing system, not just monitoring.

Lessons learned: Already knew this, but it really underlined that M12 isn't meant for high drain devices. When using high drain devices, make sure you start with full batteries, and don't push them until the tool shuts itself down. Soon as you hear the tool starting to struggle or slow down, stop and swap to a fresh battery. High drain devices really should be M18 wherever possible, and M12 should only be used in low draw devices where compact size and light weight are paramount. I have a ratchet and under hood light, perfect uses for M12. My shop vac and tire inflator, not so perfect.
 
Just had this happen, again, on both of my "big" 6ah M12 batteries. Not sure if there's a problem with these batteries, but I can't recommend M12 tools for any kind of even halfway heavy work.

Going to do some research but it looks like I'll be selling my tire inflator and vacuum and buying M18 equivalents.
 
Doing some more research, it seems like this is a known issue with these particular 6ah M12 batteries, and the M12 system isn't as delicate as I thought. Guess I'll be sourcing some other batteries.

In the mean time I'll recharge these with the benchtop power supply until they die for good. Kind of a pain but not terrible.

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If you're handy with a multi-meter I'd be inclined to open the battery up & measure the individual cells before charging it like that. If they all measure comparably & one has just dropped under the threshold (& hasn't been that way for any length of time) then carry on. If there is any significant imbalance then further investigation is required if you wish to avoid further damage & the potential fireworks that can go along with.
I wouldn't needlessly overdrain them any further, but ideally measure the cells after the battery has had a bit of a load on it.
 
If you're handy with a multi-meter I'd be inclined to open the battery up & measure the individual cells before charging it like that. If they all measure comparably & one has just dropped under the threshold (& hasn't been that way for any length of time) then carry on. If there is any significant imbalance then further investigation is required if you wish to avoid further damage & the potential fireworks that can go along with.
I wouldn't needlessly overdrain them any further, but ideally measure the cells after the battery has had a bit of a load on it.
Read the rest of the thread.
 
Boy...I wish that I understood this topic better...as far as "rebooting" a battery.

I have an Echo string trimmer and an Echo 16" chainsaw that take a 58 volt battery. I was very impressed with the performance of the chainsaw when I first got it. The string trimmer, too, but that doesn't require the same power draw from the battery that the chainsaw does.

Over time (a short time..maybe 10 hours of use), when I put a fully charged battery into the chainsaw, it would start out cutting ok, but after a minute or less, it would just quit. I wasn't forcing it, the chain was sharp. Plenty of battery power left....

I tried the battery "restart" procedure...press the indicator button on the battery for 5-10 seconds. The saw would run again, but only for a few seconds.

That same battery would operate the string trimmer just fine for the entire job of trimming our property (takes about an hour).

Now, I seem to have a situation...I have this chainsaw that I can't really use unless I buy another battery for 200 bucks. But, I'd hate to spend that much money on another battery just to get the same results.

But, I did. So far, the second battery works fine. I use the first battery for string trimming, and the second one for the chainsaw. I'd really like to buy a 3rd battery, to have 2 good batteries for the saw, but I probably wont. I have a handful of other saws that I can use, some gas, some electric.

Maybe I'll watch some videos on this topic and attempt to repair the first battery. I have one of those 12v power sources that I use for electrolysis rust removal.

Rich
 

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