reyco super jr 20hp

[Don't-B-Stumped]

Okay, found one in my budget, and may even have money left over if repairs are needed.

Vermeer 222, new kohler 25hp (less than 50 hours), extra stock teeth, no hydrolic steering, no trailer, no outer dual wheels, but price is $2000.

What say ye?

He is not far from the $4800 guy, so if for some reason I don't get it, I will stop by and see if they guy could do $4000 as that is the budget at the moment.

edit: where can you buy the dual wheel kit?

If it will take the dual wheel setup you'd have to get that from a dealer that carries vermeer. Should be easy to find. That model may not take the dual wheel. I don't know.
I would hold out for hydraulic steering but that's just me. You can still grind stumps with that one. It'll just take a bit longer. Sounds like the price is good as long as the hydraulics work ok.

 

[Mikecutstrees]

I don't have the hydraulic steering. Its not a big deal for me. I wouldn't worry much about it.

Mike

 

[Toddppm]

The steering isn't a big deal. I didn't like the lag time when those vermeers with the hydraulic cutter drive stops and then slllloowwwwly starts again. But it works and for $2K, it's worth learning on it if checks out.

 

[billsnogo]

Well, I went and picked it up. Will post pics tomorrow, too tired and watching the vikings anyways.

Not too bad shape, has some rust around the door panels, but runs great. Has a drain pipe (actual tail piece from a sink) covering the hydraulic fill, so I need to find a proper cap for that.

Guy said he had a new front wheel, extra teeth, new drive belt, and owners manual up north and will send them when go goes up there. We will see on that.....

couple of quick questions.
1. can I find a manual online?
2. the clutch kicks in right away when engaged, but when you start the machine up and the clutch is not engaged, as long as the cutting wheel is up it turns slowly, so are the belts too tight?
3. Is it hard to replace the hour meter on these? Would make it easier to keep track of maintenance.

Man, twelve hours on the road makes ya tired

thank you all

 

[billsnogo]

Pics as promised

I called a dealership and they said they could get me the cap for the hydraulic fluid for $15, which sounds better than the tail piece, but all the manuals (owners, repair, parts) will cost me $200 :censored: I need to know how to maintain and repair as needed, so I guess I am stuck.

I will be buying a grinding screen, pitch fork, have shovels, rake, leaf blower, wheel barrow, but am unsure what I should get as spare parts that may need replacing when working.

Also, looks like the machine does have a small leak somewhere, but need to track it down.

 

[Mikecutstrees]

Looks like a decent machine. I'd get outer wheels for it. Real tippy the way it is. You can get touch up spray paint from vermeer. Make sure to grease the fittings often. And yeah call up vermeer and get the manuals. I have the maint manual, operators manual and parts manual. You can get more pro series teeth too which you can easily resharpen. Good luck..... Mike

 

[billsnogo]

Unfortunately, this machine does not accept the dual wheels. I asked the dealer and they do not show this as an option on this one, unlike the 252

Is there a good place to get those teeth, or just at the dealer?

thanks again

 

[Mikecutstrees]

I'm sure you could find a way to adapt dual wheels to it. I get my teeth through vermeer but I should find somewhere else cause I'm sure I could find them cheaper.
Mike

 

[Don't-B-Stumped]

I'm sure you could find a way to adapt dual wheels to it. I get my teeth through vermeer but I should find somewhere else cause I'm sure I could find them cheaper.
Mike

check out greenteeth.com. they are round and you turn them as they wear. you'll get 3 times the life out of them. i ditched my rayco teeth when i saw what greenteeth would do.

 

[Don't-B-Stumped]

Well, I went and picked it up. Will post pics tomorrow, too tired and watching the vikings anyways.

Not too bad shape, has some rust around the door panels, but runs great. Has a drain pipe (actual tail piece from a sink) covering the hydraulic fill, so I need to find a proper cap for that.

Guy said he had a new front wheel, extra teeth, new drive belt, and owners manual up north and will send them when go goes up there. We will see on that.....

couple of quick questions.
1. can I find a manual online?
2. the clutch kicks in right away when engaged, but when you start the machine up and the clutch is not engaged, as long as the cutting wheel is up it turns slowly, so are the belts too tight?
3. Is it hard to replace the hour meter on these? Would make it easier to keep track of maintenance.

Man, twelve hours on the road makes ya tired

thank you all

the answer to #2 probably is no your belts aren't too tight. they're not supposed to slip anyway unless you take too big a bite and then they'll either slip a bit or you'll stall. the reason your wheel is turning when the clutch isn't engaged is probably just a bit of drag. you can adjust that out with your clutch brake. there are springs in three locations with nuts compressing them around the edge of the clutch. try loosening those nuts a turn and that may stop it from turning. i actually like mine that way as its easier to turn when the machine is off for working on the teeth. its a safety brake that i'm talking about that stops the wheel quickly when you disengage the clutch. its a tradeoff for safety or easy maintenance. just always stay away from that wheel when its running as it can kill you quick.
i'm talking about my rayco clutch but i'm guessing that yours may be similar.
i suggest you check out greenteeth.com as their teeth are cheaper in the long run. their new tap and turn setup will impress you as you can turn the teeth when they're dull and get 3 times the life out of them because they're round

 

[Don't-B-Stumped]

Pics as promised

I called a dealership and they said they could get me the cap for the hydraulic fluid for $15, which sounds better than the tail piece, but all the manuals (owners, repair, parts) will cost me $200 :censored: I need to know how to maintain and repair as needed, so I guess I am stuck.

I will be buying a grinding screen, pitch fork, have shovels, rake, leaf blower, wheel barrow, but am unsure what I should get as spare parts that may need replacing when working.

Also, looks like the machine does have a small leak somewhere, but need to track it down.

the only spare you'll need while working is some teeth if you hit rock or rebar. you're gonna be amazed the #### that people bury. especially on a new home site. i've had rebar thrown under the machine and into my leg. that hurts. get yourself some good forestry boots and wear some eye protection.
you can probably get by without a manual. if you're somewhat mechanical. your secondary cogged belt to the wheel is probably cogged like a harley belt. make sure that is no more than 1/4'' deflection with a good squeeze. you don't want that one skipping as they're expensive.
your primary belt may be a double v from the looks of the cowling. mine is a triple v. its easy to tighten by sliding the engine. the cogged belt is tightened by sliding the jackshaft and then you have to tighten the v because when you tighten the cogged belt you have loosened the v. you'll get it when you start workin on it. its easy.
make sure your hydraulic oil is clean and your teeth have a nice edge and have fun.