Rope for guiding trees

[cnice_37]

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/147839.htm

 

[stihly dan]

At the moment 150 ft 5/8 rope. But it's well used and I don't trust it near houses anymore. Time for something new. I can't remember where I got the rope, but it was perfect. Has about 20 ft of stretch, I can take the truck and give a good pull, park the truck and cut. there is tension for about 1/3 of the fall. Almost always use block and tackle, just seems to work better.

 

[wdchuck]

The info on aircraft grade wire rope is helpful .

 

[logbutcher]

Am I the only one smoking funny weed here ? Rope felling ? :bang: Give me a break.

Look at the size of falls done on large DBH wood -- > 36" --- in the PNW: they never use "rope". Just good professional felling. How much torque is in say a 24" DBH hardwood that a 3000lb line could take ? And you're going to tie off with a ladder ? :msp_scared:

Talk to a local arborist about HOW they use lines.

Spend the time and $$$ planning the cuts and escape route, using wedges for leaners( no, you fool, not "wedgies" :msp_scared, learning to aim the fall with proper cuts, and good safe felling.

It needed saying.

Oh yeah: cable and line under tension do break. Literally can cut one in two. Kommandant out.

 

[cnice_37]

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/147839.htm

At the moment 150 ft 5/8 rope. But it's well used and I don't trust it near houses anymore. Time for something new. I can't remember where I got the rope, but it was perfect. Has about 20 ft of stretch, I can take the truck and give a good pull, park the truck and cut. there is tension for about 1/3 of the fall. Almost always use block and tackle, just seems to work better.

That is a link posted in green.... Not a question!

 

[Steve NW WI]

Am I the only one smoking funny weed here ? Rope felling ? :bang: Give me a break.

Look at the size of falls done on large DBH wood -- > 36" --- in the PNW: they never use "rope". Just good professional felling. How much torque is in say a 24" DBH hardwood that a 3000lb line could take ? And you're going to tie off with a ladder ? :msp_scared:

Talk to a local arborist about HOW they use lines.

Spend the time and $$$ planning the cuts and escape route, using wedges for leaners( no, you fool, not "wedgies" :msp_scared, learning to aim the fall with proper cuts, and good safe felling.

It needed saying.

Oh yeah: cable and line under tension do break. Literally can cut one in two. Kommandant out.

There's a big difference between falling timber in the forest where trees grow fairly straight, and tipping trees for firewood out here in farm country. Very often, trees lean towards the light, be that over a field, road, swamp, lake, rock pile, or whatever, and dropping them where they don't want to go is difficult (and takes a lot more practice than your average Joe firewooder will ever get). Mechanical force, like the Peacemaker in the old West, is the great equalizer. It's not always about pulling a tree away from a building (although it can be and has been done safely.) I'll put a rope on any tree close to a building, even if it appears to have no chance of going wrong and hitting the building - insurance for that freak gust of wind or whatever.

I NEVER advocated pulling big (or even small) trees with light line. It's like muskie fishing with 10# monofilament. It's exciting, but you're gonna lose sooner or later, and it'll really suck when you do. The rope (technically marketed as a "Synthetic Winch Line") that I use and linked to has a 19,600# break strength. I don't have a big enough horse to break it, and my loader tractor is 10K lbs. It also does not whip when broken like cable does - I just watched an episode of Modern Marvels where the factory was doing failure testing. It popped (loudly), unraveled, and dropped.

Yes, I own wedges, know how to use them, and reach for them first (cause it's easier that way, no need to roll wedges back up when you're done with em), but I reserve the right to use a rope when it's appropriate. Get off your high horse. That is an order!

For Spidey - if you are breaking good ropes, you need bigger ropes or a smaller garden tractor. oke: (I hate cables, every thing about them, and they'll break too if undersized, overloaded, kinked, shock loaded, frayed, etc. Galvanizing also only inhibits rust, it sure doesn't prevent it.)

 

[Whitespider]

Look at the size of falls done on large DBH wood -- > 36" --- in the PNW: they never use "rope". Just good professional felling. …Spend the time and $$$ planning the cuts and escape route, using wedges for leaners, learning to aim the fall with proper cuts, and good safe felling.

Now there’s a classic case of someone who has no idea of what they speak. The trees on the northern plains (and many areas of the Midwest) do not grow straight and clean… they all lean, and not just by a couple of degrees. Here’s your 36-inch Bur Oak leaning to the northwest…

…so, you gonna’ wedge that to fall south? What if that is leaning out over a fence? A roadway? A river? A roof? Power lines? (Did you notice the power lines?)

I’ve used a redirect pulley and cable (or rope) enough times to know… they work! Used properly the tree trunk will fall smack-dab on top of the pulley, every time! ‘Round here the use of ropes, cables, pulleys and chains are used along with wedges and “proper” cuts… even by the professionals!

 

[AIM]

I'm a cable and chain guy myself (and tow straps). Most of the time if I have to make a tree fall opposite of the lean I need to put some serious force to it.
I cut along creeks quite often and as some of you might know, many of the trees along the banks will lean quite heavily towards the opposite side. You take a 24" tree leaning 10' or more at the top takes some brute force to pull back. 1/2 load of wood in the truck and 4 wheel drive low range is gonna break a lot of ropes. I'll stick with cable, chain, and tow straps.

 

[logbutcher]

Now there’s a classic case of someone who has no idea of what they speak. The trees on the northern plains (and many areas of the Midwest) do not grow straight and clean… they all lean, and not just by a couple of degrees. Here’s your 36-inch Bur Oak leaning to the northwest…

…so, you gonna’ wedge that to fall south? What if that is leaning out over a fence? A roadway? A river? A roof? Power lines? (Did you notice the power lines?)

I’ve used a redirect pulley and cable (or rope) enough times to know… they work! Used properly the tree trunk will fall smack-dab on top of the pulley, every time! ‘Round here the use of ropes, cables, pulleys and chains are used along with wedges and “proper” cuts… even by the professionals!

The man knows "of what he speaks" Spidy et. al.:cool2:
Check out where ever HOW wedges can actually correct and straighten a lean or direct a fall IF done correctly East or Midwest, open field, or tight woodlands. If I was up to it right now :help: , the formula and method for determining the degree necessary would be available. NOT neuro surgery. We use wedges routinely.
Close falls near power lines or buildings need to be cherry picked .
Now back to life.
JMNSHEO
P.S. Cables and lines do snap. The force can be deadly; ask your fav tow boat or barge operator or rock climber out there on the plains.:msp_confused:

 

[Whitespider]

That's just BS... there ain't any way in hell you could make that tree fall 180[sup]o[/sup] from the lean using nothing but wedges.

If'n you're so sure, here's the deal...
You come out here and fall that tree 180[sup]o[/sup] from the lean using nothing but wedges (the tree is just around the corner from my place) and I'll pay all your expenses... TWICE!! (Stay in the best hotel and eat in the best restaurants in the area... fly first class... buy a new saw to do the job when you get here... I don't care.)

If ya' can't get the job done you buy me a years worth of Budweiser...

(Bring a mountain of cash... you're gonna' need it!)

 

[flushcut]

This ought to be good opcorn:

 

[beerman6]

How many cuts does he get to make?

 

[Whitespider]

He can make as many cut as he wants as long as his feet remain on the ground.
...Be aware, it might not look like it in the picture, but that tree is leaning way from the camera! It's leaning quite a bit harder than the picture represents... and none of the branches are on the side he needs to make it fall towards.

I wish him luck! (not luck he can get it done... rather, luck he don't kill himself trying!)

 

[beerman6]

He can make as many cut as he wants as long as his feet remain on the ground.

:msp_thumbup:

 

[Whitespider]

Well don't leave me hangin' logbutcher...
Are you coming, or not?

 

[logbutcher]

Well don't leave me hangin' logbutcher...
Are you coming, or not?

NOT.
Why ? If you're throwing a challenge, don't start conditioning the technique such as "both feet" BS.
And, if you don't know how to drop leaners or aim falls with wedges and the right cuts don't start with "you can't"

Here's a plan for no rope felling. There's not much time in the woodlot to "throw ropes" for every fall :

1. Stop drinking Kool Aid ( Bud ).....it's like drinking H2O. Try a real beer or better, ale. Bud goes through you like a train.

2. Trim any weight bearing branches--climb. ( Forget the "no feet on the ground"; it's like making love blindfolded. Iowa technique ? :msp_scared

3. Open mouth cut of at at least 80 degrees well off where I want the tree to drop.( Called "aiming off" ). Can't just look at a pic of an ugly wolf tree to plan this.

4. Bore a backcut with holding tab of a couple of inches.

5. Set wedges toward the aiming point. They MUST be firm hammered. Keeping the 'tab' holding the fall.

6. When enough wedges are in place including stacking if needed, cut tab.

7. As tree leans toward your aim, hammer wedges further in and add more to push said tree over.

Been used, been done too often. There's at least 4 wedges on the belt. Try it. We go through a dozen Bailey wedges each year. No time on this end to enjoy Iowa. You may try the above like your conversion out of that magic furnace.

Thanks for the offer. Wedging along with ( along with ) other felling tricks do work....safely and accurately.
No BS. No ropes. No cable. No chain. No time to fuss with Mickey Mouse. :msp_w00t:

 

[Whitespider]

I should'a figured...

I'm gettin' a bit low and wasn't sure if I should re-supply on the next trip to town...
Kind'a ticks-me-off 'cause the wife called from the store yesterday and asked if she should pick up a couple boxes... I told her to hold-off for now.

Damn, I was really lookin' forward to all that free beer too...

 

[Whitespider]

Ya’ know what? I’d still like a chance at collecting all that free beer…
So I’ll issue a new challenge with the same stakes.

If’n your so sure that drinkin’ Budweiser is the same as drinkin’ H[sub]2[/sub]O…
Why don’t you come on out here for a visit? We’ll place a few boxes of Bud between us and stand there drinkin’ it. You drink one-for-one with me and the first fella’ to fall down pays…

And then the next day we’ll go double-or-nothin’ with your choice of adult beverage…
Heck, I’ll even buy all the beverages!!!

And I’ll make you a side bet… you choose the stakes.
I’ll bet you that after you fall down (both days) I’ll switch to whiskey and laugh while I watch ya’ puke!

 

[stihly dan]

NOT.
Why ? If you're throwing a challenge, don't start conditioning the technique such as "both feet" BS.
And, if you don't know how to drop leaners or aim falls with wedges and the right cuts don't start with "you can't"

Here's a plan for no rope felling. There's not much time in the woodlot to "throw ropes" for every fall :

1. Stop drinking Kool Aid ( Bud ).....it's like drinking H2O. Try a real beer or better, ale. Bud goes through you like a train.

2. Trim any weight bearing branches--climb. ( Forget the "no feet on the ground"; it's like making love blindfolded. Iowa technique ? :msp_scared

3. Open mouth cut of at at least 80 degrees well off where I want the tree to drop.( Called "aiming off" ). Can't just look at a pic of an ugly wolf tree to plan this.

4. Bore a backcut with holding tab of a couple of inches.

5. Set wedges toward the aiming point. They MUST be firm hammered. Keeping the 'tab' holding the fall.

6. When enough wedges are in place including stacking if needed, cut tab.

7. As tree leans toward your aim, hammer wedges further in and add more to push said tree over.

Been used, been done too often. There's at least 4 wedges on the belt. Try it. We go through a dozen Bailey wedges each year. No time on this end to enjoy Iowa. You may try the above like your conversion out of that magic furnace.

Thanks for the offer. Wedging along with ( along with ) other felling tricks do work....safely and accurately.
No BS. No ropes. No cable. No chain. No time to fuss with Mickey Mouse. :msp_w00t:

That was some good tree felling advice there. Not trying to piss anyone of or argue here, but if your going to climb the tree anyway. Wouldn't it be easier and faster, safer, to climb with no saw tie the rope, give a pull and cut down. I would think climbing with the saw branching the tree, moving the mess so you have rm to cut. Then put in holding tab, hammer wedges, then more wedges, removing tab, and so on. Seems to me that is more work and time. But I am not a pro like you, and I believe you know what your talking about. Its just how It seems to me.

 

[flyboy553]

Ya’ know what? I’d still like a chance at collecting all that free beer…
So I’ll issue a new challenge with the same stakes.

If’n your so sure that drinkin’ Budweiser is the same as drinkin’ H[sub]2[/sub]O…
Why don’t you come on out here for a visit? We’ll place a few boxes of Bud between us and stand there drinkin’ it. You drink one-for-one with me and the first fella’ to fall down pays…

And then the next day we’ll go double-or-nothin’ with your choice of adult beverage…
Heck, I’ll even buy all the beverages!!!

And I’ll make you a side bet… you choose the stakes.
I’ll bet you that after you fall down (both days) I’ll switch to whiskey and laugh while I watch ya’ puke!

opcorn:opcorn:

Don't think I would have opened that cat of worms Spidey! lol

Ted