NOT.
Why ? If you're throwing a challenge, don't start conditioning the technique such as "both feet" BS.
And, if you don't know how to drop leaners or aim falls with wedges and the right cuts don't start with "you can't"
Here's a plan for no rope felling. There's not much time in the woodlot to "throw ropes" for every fall :
1. Stop drinking Kool Aid ( Bud ).....it's like drinking H2O. Try a real beer or better, ale. Bud goes through you like a train.
2. Trim any weight bearing branches--climb. ( Forget the "no feet on the ground"; it's like making love blindfolded. Iowa technique ? :msp_scared
3. Open mouth cut of at at least 80 degrees well off where I want the tree to drop.( Called "aiming off" ). Can't just look at a pic of an ugly wolf tree to plan this.
4. Bore a backcut with holding tab of a couple of inches.
5. Set wedges toward the aiming point. They MUST be firm hammered. Keeping the 'tab' holding the fall.
6. When enough wedges are in place including stacking if needed, cut tab.
7. As tree leans toward your aim, hammer wedges further in and add more to push said tree over.
Been used, been done too often. There's at least 4 wedges on the belt. Try it. We go through a dozen Bailey wedges each year. No time on this end to enjoy Iowa. You may try the above like your conversion out of that magic furnace.
Thanks for the offer. Wedging along with ( along with ) other felling tricks do work....safely and accurately.
No BS. No ropes. No cable. No chain. No time to fuss with Mickey Mouse. :msp_w00t:
What if the tree is a tall pecker pole...i.e. 50ft tall but only 8" or so at the base? Where does one put the notch, wedges, holding wood, and tabs if there is barely room for little more than a single bar width? Wedging can be VERY effective on larger trees, but the effectiveness decreases with the tree diameter.
It takes 10 mins tops to put a line in the tree to pull it over. To not do it when dealing with leaners over hazards is downright negligent.