This is the style system on mine. I'll get some pictures this weekend when I go to the farm, mine must be an older model than yours, compression release valve is made different, return spring on the side of motor above muffler.
Steve
Roper 3.7 tear down and rebuild
- Thread starter Opihi59
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
This is the style system on mine. I'll get some pictures this weekend when I go to the farm, mine must be an older model than yours, compression release valve is made different, return spring on the side of motor above muffler.
Steve
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Very interesting. I have not seen that personally, or in any of the innerweb research I've done. You must have a really early model, as mine are solid state IGN, and yours is points/condensor. Really looks like a nice saw though. Worth saving, and then using the crap out of it like it was made to be used.
Rough day at work, had to pull left fuel tank on an 09 Yvette and replace fuel pump, pita. Well, how hard to pull fuel tank on this Roper?
Steve
Steve
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Not as bad as the Vette job. More closely akin to removing the heater core on a Wrangler YJ. Not too tough, but a few steps. Change out fuel hose, filter, etc while you're at it.
If it gets too much a PITA, you know what to do........
If it gets too much a PITA, you know what to do........
LOL, do need a new boat anchor. 
Steve
Steve
Well it wasn't too hard to pull apart.
Steve
Steve
I have one of these and it kicks butt! The question I have is that where the manual oiler is shown as there is an empty hole. It has the automatic oiler system but is the manual plunger necessary to operate? The hole doesn't seem to have any threads for the plunger to mount to and it is the 373750 solid state.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
It would have to seem that someone pulled the manual oiler assembly at some point, but I'm not familiar with there being an open hole here, or that these models were sold without a manual oiler pump. Would of course like to see some photos. You're sure though that the auto oiler still oils when you use your saw?
I have not come up with a duckbill valve for my saw(s) manual oiler as of yet, but I really haven't looked. I've just been using other saws in my pile and the Ropers are just gathering dust.
I have not come up with a duckbill valve for my saw(s) manual oiler as of yet, but I really haven't looked. I've just been using other saws in my pile and the Ropers are just gathering dust.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
While our model numbers are similar, they aren't identical, so there may be subtle differences. That being said though, I cannot imagine that the hole for the manual pump would be uncapped so to speak. I have to say though that even later models of the Roper 3.7 still had a manual pump, though it was a bit dissimilar, as in my 917.353770 model featured in another thread, photos about 2/3 of the way down the page. If I were take a SWAG at it, I'd have to feel that someone in the past has pulled the pump out of yours, and left that cavity open.
Do you have any background history on that saw? Such as "my grandpa/dad bought it new and it's been in the family forever, and it's never been worked on" or "I got it at a yard sale."
Do you have any background history on that saw? Such as "my grandpa/dad bought it new and it's been in the family forever, and it's never been worked on" or "I got it at a yard sale."
If that one is like the one I have, the oil only gets to the bar mount at WOT. There is a shut off valve connected to the throttle trigger.
Same general system is used on Remingtons.
You must also 'burp' the pressure from the oil tank when done or suffer an ever growing puddle of oil under the saw. Just loosen the tank lid.
Same general system is used on Remingtons.
You must also 'burp' the pressure from the oil tank when done or suffer an ever growing puddle of oil under the saw. Just loosen the tank lid.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, like my 3 Jeep Wranglers, these saws like to mark their territory. I open the oil tanks on all my saws after orienting the saws so the fill plug is facing UP, and they get a rag under them, or some of The Dragon Lady's lingerie since stuff like that around this mad house never gets even close to being used any more for its original purpose.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Yup, that's the same "base" as I have. I can pretty much guarantee you that someone has pulled the manual pump on yours. They are available if you search for them, but you are unlikely to get an air filter. You can line yours with some thin felt like from a fabric shop or hobby store and glue it around the edges of the OEM filter frame and it will be just as good as your original. Mighty nice looking saw you have there. I'd call that a keeper.
The manual oil pump from a Homelite, Remington, Lombard, and several others will work in there. You may just end up with a round push button.
I was mistaken on the model although the base chassis sure looks the same. in fact it is a 353710 if that helps. Is there a cross-ref for finding an air filter too?
That's a flow control valve for the bar oil top, left of the handle.
I got it off craigslist for $20 last week because "it needed fuel lines". I put a new chain on it(super 20) and found the leak was the bottom of the crank/tank case. A little tank epoxy and leak is gone. To help prevent it getting damage again I added a sheet of rubber on the bottom face. Later comes the repaint but I first have to verify all the features. Eventually it needs a bar too but it works for now.
When I bought it I thought 'eh its just a big 20 buck saw' not wow its a 60cc powerhouse. Already used it on the job a few times enough to know it was time to sell my Stihl 012 14". That little saw was a lot easier to pull but the diaphragm oiler was not very consistent or available. Someone else bought that one off me for $100 which was found free.
When I bought it I thought 'eh its just a big 20 buck saw' not wow its a 60cc powerhouse. Already used it on the job a few times enough to know it was time to sell my Stihl 012 14". That little saw was a lot easier to pull but the diaphragm oiler was not very consistent or available. Someone else bought that one off me for $100
which was found free.The flow control and auto-actuator are as they should be. The question is should there be something in the apparently blind cavity where the thumb pump would be.
