Thanks guys...you sound like real experts. Glad to see that there are other fans of these saws. Any info as to where I can find thr carb rebuild kit, new rings and new crank seals.
Roper 3.7 tear down and rebuild
- Thread starter Opihi59
- Start date
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Thanks guys...you sound like real experts. Glad to see that there are other fans of these saws. Any info as to where I can find thr carb rebuild kit, new rings and new crank seals.
RBurtcher
ArboristSite Operative
Good to see another Roper thread. How I missed it I'm not sure. Rebuilding my Dads roper is what brought me to this sight in the first place.
Opihi59, Nice detailed pics and some good coaching from Roanoker494 and 67L36Driver.
I have 2 1/2 of the Non AV versions. One is solid state ign. xx750 and the other points xx760. The 1/2 are leftover parts from my dads that suffered white death in the gas tank which ate holes through it and a parts saw.
Opihi59, Thanks for posting the seals part #'s and the exp. on the rings.
67L36Driver, Does the pin in the ring lands from the XL100 series line up in the proper place on the roper to avoid snagging a ring?
On the compression release deal, My original (dads) suffered clearance issues due to heat and wear from vibration. The lever also tends to crack as shown on the comparison pics Opihi59 posted.
On another note. the fixed jet carbs on these are sensitive to having high pressure air blown through them as there is a checkvalve in the mainjet that can get messed up or come out. The points version xx760 had the hi/low adjustable carb when I recieved it and honestly after tuning there was not alot of improvement in the cut. I thought I read someplace they are just a richening device to stop over reving. sort of like a governor.
As noted in other threads, The original chain for the auto sharp option was called Baraccuda which can be found for nostalgia puposes but doesn't really work as well as normal chain.
Some good info in this thread.
R.B.
Opihi59, Nice detailed pics and some good coaching from Roanoker494 and 67L36Driver.
I have 2 1/2 of the Non AV versions. One is solid state ign. xx750 and the other points xx760. The 1/2 are leftover parts from my dads that suffered white death in the gas tank which ate holes through it and a parts saw.
Opihi59, Thanks for posting the seals part #'s and the exp. on the rings.
67L36Driver, Does the pin in the ring lands from the XL100 series line up in the proper place on the roper to avoid snagging a ring?
On the compression release deal, My original (dads) suffered clearance issues due to heat and wear from vibration. The lever also tends to crack as shown on the comparison pics Opihi59 posted.
On another note. the fixed jet carbs on these are sensitive to having high pressure air blown through them as there is a checkvalve in the mainjet that can get messed up or come out. The points version xx760 had the hi/low adjustable carb when I recieved it and honestly after tuning there was not alot of improvement in the cut. I thought I read someplace they are just a richening device to stop over reving. sort of like a governor.
As noted in other threads, The original chain for the auto sharp option was called Baraccuda which can be found for nostalgia puposes but doesn't really work as well as normal chain.
Some good info in this thread.
R.B.
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Nothing to do with XL-100 rings.???
Roper bore is 1 13/16" IIRC and you can use the nearest metric bore size x 1.5mm thick from 'The Greek'. Rings will have a tad more groove clearence than ideal but it works.
You will need a 1/16" dia. swiss pattern file to notch the ring end gap.
Strange but true:
I bought four rings for my Roper and Pioneer 1200. Ring installation was uneventfull on the Roper. On the Pioneer I broke both. Aargh!
As a last ditch I put the used rings from the Roper in the Pioneer.
Compression in the Pioneer went from 110psi to 145psi. Go figure.
Roper bore is 1 13/16" IIRC and you can use the nearest metric bore size x 1.5mm thick from 'The Greek'. Rings will have a tad more groove clearence than ideal but it works.
You will need a 1/16" dia. swiss pattern file to notch the ring end gap.
Strange but true:
I bought four rings for my Roper and Pioneer 1200. Ring installation was uneventfull on the Roper. On the Pioneer I broke both. Aargh!
As a last ditch I put the used rings from the Roper in the Pioneer.
Compression in the Pioneer went from 110psi to 145psi. Go figure.
Craftsman 917.353770
for us novices, can anyone help with info as to where can one find parts for rebuilding the carb, rings and other motor parts needed to
get it in shape. also what is the exact cc spec for this 3.7 engine, should be about 60??
anyone has an older one to sell for parts??
thanks
for us novices, can anyone help with info as to where can one find parts for rebuilding the carb, rings and other motor parts needed to
get it in shape. also what is the exact cc spec for this 3.7 engine, should be about 60??
anyone has an older one to sell for parts??
thanks
The carb is a Tilly HS and the kit is available from any small engine shop, Ebay and many of the site sponsors. For rings you will have to find something close and file the gap to fit, the Roper's have a odd ball size bore and I don't know of any exact fit rings. Somewhere in this thread Opihi59 actually tells what rings he used, you will have to do a little "leg work" to find the info. A few new engine parts show up on Ebay from time to time but you are pretty well going to be limited to used parts from a site sponsor like Chainsawr.com or on Ebay.
As you can see on this Roper branded saw they were designated as 61cc from the manufacturer, I believe most all the Sears/Craftsman versions were only marked as 3.7.
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Tillotson HS
The tillotson HS had a Idle mixture screw and High Speed mixture screw...
my carb only has the Low speed mixture screw and Idle speed regulating screw which only lifts or lowers the throttle level.
Must be another carburatator in there _??
The tillotson HS had a Idle mixture screw and High Speed mixture screw...
my carb only has the Low speed mixture screw and Idle speed regulating screw which only lifts or lowers the throttle level.
Must be another carburatator in there _??
Craftsman 3.7 chain saw
On closer examination of saw, I found a barely visible sticker on the bottom of saw that shows it is a 917.353771 model saw...
would that change specs of carburator....definitely it is not a Tillotson HS. Founbd the carbs service manual and it shows it has two
mixture adj screws, idle and high, which mine does not. Wish it did. Look at Tillotson home web site.
thanks.
On closer examination of saw, I found a barely visible sticker on the bottom of saw that shows it is a 917.353771 model saw...
would that change specs of carburator....definitely it is not a Tillotson HS. Founbd the carbs service manual and it shows it has two
mixture adj screws, idle and high, which mine does not. Wish it did. Look at Tillotson home web site.
thanks.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
HS series carbs for the 3.7 came both versions low mix adjustable only, and high/low mix adjustable. Pull off your carb and look it over after cleaning it well. You can see the ID stamp on the one I posted above for my .XXX770, the "H" slipped off the side of the carb when stamped. Pictures help. Post up some of your saw/carb and the experts will help you. The 770/771 are very similar saws, I don't know what the difference might be but they are pretty much the same saw.
:agree2:
Yep...... What he said
I have three of those newer style saws here myself. One has both adjustment screws, two have only the one adjustment but all three have a Tilly HS. The HS is just the series of carb and it is the numbers/letters that follow that tells the particulars of the carb. There is a HS parts list, not the service manual, on the Tillotson website that lists all the different variations and the associated parts for each.
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timberdollars
ArboristSite Operative
Roper
Hi all, I have one these Craftsman "High Performance" model roper 3.7's. I tried selling it on ebay for parts but No luck. Its got a great bore, cylinder etc. I was mine back in 1990 then gave to my uncle. Well he gave it back never used but sittin around.
Has a cracked clutch shoe and missing/broke off case to tank mounting bolts behind clutch. (four tapered screws)
Has a fully adjustable SDC carb on it!!! thinkin about keeping it.
Its up for ?????????????????????? complete including filter, think sparks gone on it!!!!
Or should I restore it to operation?
Duane
Hi all, I have one these Craftsman "High Performance" model roper 3.7's. I tried selling it on ebay for parts but No luck. Its got a great bore, cylinder etc. I was mine back in 1990 then gave to my uncle. Well he gave it back never used but sittin around.
Has a cracked clutch shoe and missing/broke off case to tank mounting bolts behind clutch. (four tapered screws)
Has a fully adjustable SDC carb on it!!! thinkin about keeping it.
Its up for ?????????????????????? complete including filter, think sparks gone on it!!!!
Or should I restore it to operation?
Duane
I remember seeing that one on Ebay, the missing case bolts is what caught my eye. These are great little saws but usually do not bring much unless there is something special about it, like the minty one with the custom steel Craftsman case that went fairly high.
timberdollars
ArboristSite Operative
ropers
yeh I know, I tried selling it for $30.00 and after fees my take would have been $25.00'ish, shipping is what killed the deal. Oh well if someone whats it trade me outta it or after I finish my other 20 project saws I'll put it right again.
Duane
yeh I know, I tried selling it for $30.00 and after fees my take would have been $25.00'ish, shipping is what killed the deal. Oh well if someone whats it trade me outta it or after I finish my other 20 project saws I'll put it right again.
Duane
Shipping is becoming a ever increasing pain. The costs keep creeping up and they are closing a bunch of processing centers which is going to end up increasing shipping times, my local mail is shifting from the Roanoke VA center to one in Greensboro NC.
May want to part it out. Recoil is worth $10+ and the top cover, if it is solid, is probably worth the same with the filter.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
I think it would bring you some success if you part it out. I saw this on ebay as well, the main thing I thought was how nice the background looked in the photo you took of it balanced on--was that an open truck door? If you do want to restore it to operation, it wouldn't take a whole lot, just time and effort. But with 20 other project saws? Wow. Okay, you win.
Thanks for checking in on the thread.
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Oh wait, under more scrutiny, back end of the bed rail on a pickup truck, now I have to guess the make/model of pickup. Older Chevy?
timberdollars
ArboristSite Operative
roper background
Only Fords here, lots of them.
The old Roper will just sit for now, I'll part it out when getting around to it.
Duane
Only Fords here, lots of them.
The old Roper will just sit for now, I'll part it out when getting around to it.
Duane
EZRYDER
ArboristSite Operative
Has anyone got a picture of the proper oiler hole in the bar?
Got instructions from the help thread but I would love a pic!
Larry
Got instructions from the help thread but I would love a pic!
Larry
Opihi59
ArboristSite Operative
Unless Roanoker494 or 67L36Driver chime in with some photos, I'll try to post up some photos. Essentially what I did was to bore a hole thru the bar that matches the oiler groove on the barmount side of the case, then put one immediately below that for when the bar is flipped over. On the original saw, the oil drools down the side of the bar and is picked up by the chain on the bottom and then dragged around the bar. I have not cut side holes into the chain slot of the bar though. I have to dig out the stuff for photos, currently the bench is overwhelmed by another project(s).
EZRYDER
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks Opihi!
I will put the saw in front of me and try to follow what you said. Pictures would be much appreciated however!
Larry
I will put the saw in front of me and try to follow what you said. Pictures would be much appreciated however!
Larry
EZRYDER
ArboristSite Operative
I have a new problem with my Roper. Can anyone help?
I lent my saw to a shady contractor friend reluctantly. When I got it back, the bar and chain were charred, oil was empty, and it looks like there is something wrong with the chain sprocket but I am not sure. There is a collar around the sprocket that is now floating. It can shift from the left to the right along the length of the sprocket and I am not sure whether it was orginally secured against the clutch assembly to the left side or against the saw body to the right. Can anyone help with either words and/or a picture? If it cannot operate this way I will make him pay for the fix. If it is broken, does anyone have an available spare to sell?
Larry
I lent my saw to a shady contractor friend reluctantly. When I got it back, the bar and chain were charred, oil was empty, and it looks like there is something wrong with the chain sprocket but I am not sure. There is a collar around the sprocket that is now floating. It can shift from the left to the right along the length of the sprocket and I am not sure whether it was orginally secured against the clutch assembly to the left side or against the saw body to the right. Can anyone help with either words and/or a picture? If it cannot operate this way I will make him pay for the fix. If it is broken, does anyone have an available spare to sell?
Larry
