Roper 3.7 tear down and rebuild

[Opihi59]

I lent my saw to a shady contractor friend reluctantly. When I got it back, the bar and chain were charred, oil was empty, and it looks like there is something wrong with the chain sprocket but I am not sure. There is a collar around the sprocket that is now floating. It can shift from the left to the right along the length of the sprocket and I am not sure whether it was orginally secured against the clutch assembly to the left side or against the saw body to the right. Can anyone help with either words and/or a picture? If it cannot operate this way I will make him pay for the fix. If it is broken, does anyone have an available spare to sell?
Larry

Sigh. The leading cause of chainsaw demise, worldwide. Lending treasured saw to someone who is totally unencumbered with knowledge or experience in operating them. If you're lucky, it wasn't straight-gassed.

In regards to the bar, this particular bar is a D176 mount, which is not the mount this saw was designed to utilize. The problem is that you can't find the original bar any longer. One of these holes I drilled, and pretty sure it would be the ROUND one. When I cut oblong holes, I gotta drill 2 then connect with a round file and dress the sides with flat. You can see the oiler slot under the round hole, this is where you want to drill. Of course, I used some cobalt bits on a drill press with cutting oil (I happen to use coconut oil as cutting oil, I grow it in my back yard so to speak). Not I have to admit, there are a number of bars I have drilled, and I am "pretty" certain this is one of them. At any rate, you know where to drill the hole, and also when you flip the bar, the adjuster pin will now go in this hole, and the slotted/oblong hole will serve as the oiler hole. Hope this helps.

Lendeth thou not your cherished saws to ruffians, yea verily, thou shalt suffer therefrom woefully and teareth out thine hair in remorse.

What a bummer. Send some photos of your concerns and the forum will chime in with support.

 

[EZRYDER]

Great! A little clarification please

I see the oiler hole. I heard mention of another being drilled into the side of the bar channel so the oil gets easier to the chain, or am I confused?
Second, I am confused about the whole drive sprocket assembly. I saw pics of a new and old in the earlier pages. Does this drive sprocket actually float (or move side to side) on the splined shaft that is attached to the clutch wheel? Please forgive my inaccurate terminology. I am a rank amature at chainsaws. I am a semi-retired accountant and recently got into the hobby because I am installing a refurbished 1979 HS Tarm MB 55 Solo wood/coal boiler that I am not an amature at (installed and ran one 25 years ago for ten years). I recently acquired this Roper, a similar vintage yellow Sears Sportster which works great and a mint "shelf queen" 1981 Pioneer P26. In addition, I am operating a new 18" craftsman electric, a new 12" Remington electric and a 10" electric pole saw.

 

[Opihi59]

You're not confused. There are saws with a hole cut into the rail for oiling purposes, but I have a limited pile-O'-saws and they are all older, and do not include any of this style. Eventually someone will answer you, or you could try PM some of the more broadly experienced folks here.

The drive sprocket does have some play on the splined shaft, some more than others. I purchased some new drive sprockets and found they were not as thick as the originals, they do slide back and forth on the splines. There are planny photos of them if you dig thru this thread a few chapters back.

 

[EZRYDER]

Thanks Opihi. One more question

You're not confused. There are saws with a hole cut into the rail for oiling purposes, but I have a limited pile-O'-saws and they are all older, and do not include any of this style. Eventually someone will answer you, or you could try PM some of the more broadly experienced folks here.

The drive sprocket does have some play on the splined shaft, some more than others. I purchased some new drive sprockets and found they were not as thick as the originals, they do slide back and forth on the splines. There are planny photos of them if you dig thru this thread a few chapters back.

How can I evaluate the condition of my drive sprocket as I received the saw back in a mess as I previously described.

 

[EZRYDER]

Sorry. Another.

You're not confused. There are saws with a hole cut into the rail for oiling purposes, but I have a limited pile-O'-saws and they are all older, and do not include any of this style. Eventually someone will answer you, or you could try PM some of the more broadly experienced folks here.

The drive sprocket does have some play on the splined shaft, some more than others. I purchased some new drive sprockets and found they were not as thick as the originals, they do slide back and forth on the splines. There are planny photos of them if you dig thru this thread a few chapters back.

There are two "shrouds" that go around the base of the bar and are sandwiched by the bolts that hold the bar to the body. Do I need them anymore if I am not using the sharpener? I do not even know what position to put them in; ie flaring out from the bar or in towards the bar.

 

[Opihi59]

Inside shroud angles inside, outside shroud angles outward. They aren't really necessary but could help prevent your chain from chewing into your case if it throws off of the bar.

I don't know how to comment on your sprocket issue. Photos do help. You could pull your sprocket/clutch assy off, I have a thread in here that covers that. I don't think it's specifically in this thread though.

 

[Opihi59]

Try this thread for removing the sprocket. http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/179586.htm

 

[djones]

Larry, the roper I'm sending you has both bar guide plates with it and the bar is from TSC and is designed for craftsman saws and works fine on the roper. Unless you have a sprocket with a thick collar any replacement sprockets will float, this helps keep itself centered on the shaft.

 

[djones]

Here is my version of a clutch removing tool for Roper/Craftman---View attachment 239305View attachment 239306
I used the ever popular 25/32 socket and cut out the unneccessary metal leaving 3 usable prongs to pop those nasty clutches off. Just attach to a 1/2" drive breaker bar, stuff the cylinder with rope, secure and push down, an impact wrench just bounces on the rope, I don't suggest using one, don't ask how I know these things.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[EZRYDER]

Dj- still trying to confirm you got my PM regarding $ Xfer

Here is my version of a clutch removing tool for Roper/Craftman---View attachment 239305View attachment 239306
I used the ever popular 25/32 socket and cut out the unneccessary metal leaving 3 usable prongs to pop those nasty clutches off. Just attach to a 1/2" drive breaker bar, stuff the cylinder with rope, secure and push down, an impact wrench just bounces on the rope, I don't suggest using one, don't ask how I know these things.:hmm3grin2orange:

I sent you two PMs about sending you $ but they don't show up in my "sent items"
Larry

 

[Opihi59]

I sent you two PMs about sending you $ but they don't show up in my "sent items"
Larry

Your email account is likely full. You will need to delete some old messages.

 

[djones]

I sent you two PMs about sending you $ but they don't show up in my "sent items"
Larry

You're OK Larry, I just need your home address and away we go. PM me your full address and I'll head to the Poat office.

 

[EZRYDER]

Thanks Opihi I am wondering

Inside shroud angles inside, outside shroud angles outward. They aren't really necessary but could help prevent your chain from chewing into your case if it throws off of the bar.

I don't know how to comment on your sprocket issue. Photos do help. You could pull your sprocket/clutch assy off, I have a thread in here that covers that. I don't think it's specifically in this thread though.

I am wondering if the shrouds may be helpful in the awkward oiler "dribbling" process. BTW the oil does come out from the upper bar adjustment slot but it kind of dribbles in a meandering way down around the area where the bar is securely sandwiched between the saw body and chain compartment cover and eventually finds its way to the bottom of the bar. Is this a typical oiling process? SHEEEESSSH!
Also, I think my saw is Polish like me. I could not get the oiler to work with the flow adjustment knob in the full + position but it flows freely in the - position or half way in between?

 

[EZRYDER]

Got it DJ

You're OK Larry, I just need your home address and away we go. PM me your full address and I'll head to the Poat office.

Got the package Tuesday but have not opened it yet.
Thanks,
Larry

 

[Fun4alongtime]

Craftsman/Roper 3.7A Issue

View attachment 243807View attachment 243808

The saw has seen very little use over the years. I have installed a new air filter and the RK-23-HS carb kit along with a new fuel line to date. The problem it has happens when full throtal or under a load the engine pulses. I don't know where to look next. I have tried adjusting the H & L screws on the carb. I thought it was an air/fuel issue but can't see changing anything else. Looking for a little help.

 

[EZRYDER]

I have the same one I think

View attachment 243807View attachment 243808

The saw has seen very little use over the years. I have installed a new air filter and the RK-23-HS carb kit along with a new fuel line to date. The problem it has happens when full throtal or under a load the engine pulses. I don't know where to look next. I have tried adjusting the H & L screws on the carb. I thought it was an air/fuel issue but can't see changing anything else. Looking for a little help.

I don't know if you fixed the problem but If you are interested in selling it, I would have fun working on it. I have four similar units and all are running fine but i did not have the problem that you are experiencing. Please PM me.
Larry

 

[BigDee]

917.353736

I just discovered this slightly dated post and have been reading it with great interest. I have a 917.353736 that looks very similar. It is a strong runner and the piston and cylinder look very clean (like perfect) through the exhaust port. I am wondering if anyone knows the difference between mine and the saws being discussed here. Also, if modifying the muffler would improve performance, is it a good idea with a single screw carb? Would it run too lean?

Thanks for the help

Don

 

[Opihi59]

Very similar, but a "newer" version than that featured primarily in my thread. Yours likely looks like this:

It is also a Roper 3.7, has many similar or interchangeable parts, but has plastic gas tank and oil tank as opposed to my model which has tanks formed by case halves glued together. While I am able to run a carb with both hi and low adjustment, the configuration of your model does not allow this. I have one like yours and haven't figured out a way to run a different carb on it but I am happy with it the way it is. These are good saws.

 

[hotshot]

Tilly number

That's the 'L' (low speed) jet adjustment. Turn it out 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated and you will be in the ballpark. If it bogs/dies when you pull the trigger turn it out a tad more. If it still bogs/dies when you pull the trigger start out at 1 turn from lightly seated.

Looks like you may have a fixed High speed jet on the Tilly. Is there a blind hole to the right of your 'L' needle?

Great & classic thread for the 3.7 Roper fans

Just curious with a couple of questions, but what was the original Tilly number for the carb that
had only the low speed adjuster (fixed high)? Looks like, from reading through the posts, that
you never did use that one.

Have the thinner metric 1.5mm thick piston rings, versus domestic 1/16" for a 0.0035" difference,
given you any problems on high speed operation (floating)?

 

[chainsawwhisperer]

I got this one a while ago, I replaced the lines and the carb diaphragms, and still could not got it to run right. I had the fixed H carb, and seemed to have an accelerator pump on the side of the carb.
I had in a box of parts, The same series carb with an adj. H. So I transfered the throttle and choke shafts...
What I did not think of was the throttle arm swings past the HHS. The full length adj. screw would hold the throttle 1/2 open. I ended up cuttling the screw in half and pressing a washer filed into a star shape onto the screw. This way you can hook it with a screwdriver and adjust it...while not the most ideal way to adjust it, it seems to work ok and better still it now runs great!

You can kind of see in the pic the throttle arm and how it obscures the HHS. I still needed to bend the arm slightly anyway to clear the screw.