royal purple 2 cycle TCW 3, whats a good ratio mix for all chainsaws old and new?

[Joe Kidd]

Hey guys, I've been running Royal Purple engine oil for about 16 years now, ever since I saw what it did for a turbocharged race engine my vehicles and tools have lived on the stuff!

I run the ""HP2-C"" version and well, I freekin love what it does! I run this stuff in every 2 stroke tool I have and this oil makes more power and rev-ability in every tool thus far. I have an MS-362 that I recently began to run the HP2-C at a 50:1 ratio. Only recently because my saw is not even a year old yet, and to get the extended warranty I had to purchase the Stihl synthetic oil. Well, it took a while for me to use that up! Now it's gone finally, some of which I gave away just to get it gone..... Nothing but Royal Purple now, finally! Here's the difference in a nutshell: More power and more revs (RPM).

For me to tell you all about is useless. It will cost you about $13.00 to prove it to yourself..... Muffler mods or porting, or just switch your breed of oil to gain????? Your call.
t3t4

I be damned. A miracle oil. Sorry Randy, I won't need your services!! :spam: ??

 

[gsrsol84mm]

You go out and buy a nice chainsaw. You research and find the person you think will give you the best port job. You buy a super duper bar made out of something that makes it expensive. You buy an expensive grinder because the chain has to be perfect. Then when it comes to oil, you decide to go with advertising advice that goes against all the testing and experience of operators that have used chainsaws for years in the harshest conditions.

Now that just funny

 

[tolman_paul]

Damage to saws from oil failure is rare? I hear this a lot, think about it if a saw gets to hot or has a lean out condition what always happens? (Piston cylinder scoring) caused from a lack of oil otherwise known as viscosity.

You can run 16:1 if you want, but if you lean out the carb too much the exhaust gasses will get so hot that they will melt the piston. No wonder oil or wonder oil ratio is going to protect you from 1300 deg exhaust gasses because it is not a lube failure, it is metal failure from the metal melting.

 

[fwgsaw]

You can run 16:1 if you want, but if you lean out the carb too much the exhaust gasses will get so hot that they will melt the piston. No wonder oil or wonder oil ratio is going to protect you from 1300 deg exhaust gasses because it is not a lube failure, it is metal failure from the metal melting.

I disagree the reason the piston melts is because it lost viscosity, which caused metal on metal contact, which in turn leads to melting the piston. Yes the exhaust temps add to this problem. Also I don't believe any oil can prevent this but some oils are better than others and can help from it happening so quickly.

 

[Andyshine77]

I disagree the reason the piston melts is because it lost viscosity, which caused metal on metal contact, which in turn leads to melting the piston. Yes the exhaust temps add to this problem. Also I don't believe any oil can prevent this but some oils are better than others and can help from it happening so quickly.

If combustion temps get out of hand, you can melt a hole in the center of the piston, where it's thinnest. This is rare, but it does happen. Lean tuning is normally the cause of pistons melting. Lack of oil, or oil film strength will caus the engine to lockup, or simply stop running long before any real melting occurs IMHO.

 

[tolman_paul]

Two stroke pistons tend to melt on the exhaust edge first as that part of the piston sees the most heat from the exhaust gasses and it doesn't benefit as much from the cooling affect of the fresh air/fuel charge entering from the transfer ports.

If I still have it I'll post a picture of a melted CR-80 piston from my kart racing days. The jetting was perfect and I was running 32:1 redline oil. The problem is the unbeknownst to me the radiator failed and I ran an unknown number of laps with no coolant in a water cooled engine

Suprisingly the engine didn't stick. When I pulled the plug at the end of my session I saw small blobs of aluminum on it. Needless to say an oh crap moment and after pulling the head I discovered the piston was starting to melt. I had aluminum deposits on the exhaust side of the cylinder. Basically the classic lean burn down symptoms which is what happens when an engine overheats from either too lean of a mix or not enough cooling. When I pulled the head I found no water in the cylinder jacket and after some trouble shooting discovered the radiator had failed.

I can assure you that even if you run 16:1 oil if you turn the go fast needle in far enough you'll either stick or melt the piston. Just depends on how long of a WOT run you make and how far you leaned in the needle. Aluminum melts at approximately 1200 F, depending on the alloy. I've run exhaust temp gauges on racing two strokes and the exhaust gas runs right around 1200F when properly jetted. One can easily lean the carb to raise the temp to 1300F. It should be pretty clear what's going to happen if your exhaust gas exceeds the melting point of the piston.

 

[fwgsaw]

Two stroke pistons tend to melt on the exhaust edge first as that part of the piston sees the most heat from the exhaust gasses and it doesn't benefit as much from the cooling affect of the fresh air/fuel charge entering from the transfer ports.

If I still have it I'll post a picture of a melted CR-80 piston from my kart racing days. The jetting was perfect and I was running 32:1 redline oil. The problem is the unbeknownst to me the radiator failed and I ran an unknown number of laps with no coolant in a water cooled engine

Suprisingly the engine didn't stick. When I pulled the plug at the end of my session I saw s
mall blobs of aluminum on it. Needless to say an oh crap moment and after pulling the head I discovered the piston was starting to melt. I had aluminum deposits on the exhaust side of the cylinder. Basically the classic lean burn down symptoms which is what happens when an engine overheats from either too lean of a mix or not enough cooling. When I pulled the head I found no water in the cylinder jacket and after some trouble shooting discovered the radiator had failed.

I can assure you that even if you run 16:1 oil if you turn the go fast needle in far enough you'll either stick or melt the piston. Just depends on how long of a WOT run you make and how far you leaned in the needle. Aluminum melts at approximately 1200 F, depending on the alloy. I've run exhaust temp gauges on racing two strokes and the exhaust gas runs right around 1200F when properly jetted. One can easily lean the carb to raise the temp to 1300F. It should be pretty clear what's going to happen if your exhaust gas exceeds the melting point of the piston.

Just because ur exhaust temps are 1200 degrees doesn't mean the piston is. Fresh air and oil is what keeps a piston cool. I still stand by what I said loss of viscosity causes seized pistons. If a piston actually melts its a detonation problem.