Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

[sachsmann]

Thanks brother I'm going to save those pics. I was sittin' and done, but I had to go outside and snag the crankcase/jug assembly.

A tad harder for a newb like me coz I'm not going to pull the jug if the compression is high enough, yet right off on one pic I noticed that the 12si looked like it had quarter siting on top as mine does.

The I see the fins on the clutch side are almost on a full 90 degreesas is mine.

So, your pics have confirmed that I have a 120si.

A question on the 120 super.

Why does it have 9 fins instead of seven and why larger holes in the fins for addessing the allen head jug bolts?

Was the super part of trying to transition into the larger line before the 120si came out?

Thanks again for the pics mate I will save them for future reference.
-----------------------------------
I need a flywheel puller coz my plan is to leave the jugs on the cases & take everything else off and clean it up good.

Then if I have enough compression & spark I'll slap on some new paint and start replacing fuel/oil lines, rebuilfing carbs and I guess the oil pumps along w/few bolts & parts.

Anywho, until further development that's the plan...

Not sure on the 120's, but my opinon for all it's worth is that as technology 'developed' other ways, sometimes cheaper are utilised. The 116 &120si are the 2nd to last of the 112-120 chassis. Dolmar don't necessarily make all the parts, sometimes manufacturers will outsource certain items and just finish them. Also making changes to particular items that do the same job as to make them easier to identifyas development progresses..and they similar parts no longer swap over. The 120 has a different bore to the 120si and I'd suggest there are differences in the porting also. Try working with auto manufacture's, especially the European stuff...Drives you crazy.:jawdrop:

 

[nicksterdemus]

Thanks for the reply. At times I'm as bad as a kid w/never ending questions.

Two extra fins from basically the same size, same company & same era suggests the hunt for better heat dissipation,

Well, if the 116si & 1220si were second to last then the burnin' question in me feeble mind now is, what was the last of the 112-120 chassis model?

I still have to make up a parts list and see what's available for the super & si, but I snagged a 123 that's supposed to be in great runnin' condition.

Looks good from the pics anyway. Gonna be a tad chunky compared to the 120 super & si, yet as soon as I obtain a larger bar it'll compliment the 460 Ranchero.

I'm taking a road trip to the north/central part of the state in a few hours to pick it up.

I guess now that I've aquired three Sachs-Dolmars that I'm afflicted beyond hope of sane recovery.

Until I snag a 153 anyway...

 

[leeha]

Looks similar to the '82 that I have except for the muffler. So how many are you up to now?

So Steve, What was the first and last year of production
with these 166's. Didn't think they were made as early
as 82. I thought 84 or 85. and ending around 91, 92


Lee

 

[Bursch]

I am new to the sight. I have been doing some research on these Dolmer saws. I am impressed by the comments and the possitive things I have read.I want to buy a new one. I need to get rid of a couple of my old
Mc Culloch 610's first. I hope to own one soon

 

[discounthunter]

Looks good Lee, no decomp valve would give your arm a good workout

wow, no kidding!

 

[leeha]

Looks good Lee, no decomp valve would give your arm a good workout

They actually don't pull over to bad.
But you do have to have a good grip
and be serious.


Lee

 

[sachsmo]

It do help having a good counterweight (B&C), bet trying to crank it PHO would booger up ones wrist!

 

[166]

So Steve, What was the first and last year of production
with these 166's. Didn't think they were made as early
as 82. I thought 84 or 85. and ending around 91, 92

Lee

The one in the picture has 82 marked on the air filter cover. So it looks to be manufactured in 1982. Serial # on this saw is 166/002404. What does your air filter cover say on the bottom?

They actually don't pull over to bad.
But you do have to have a good grip
and be serious.

Lee

Yup

 

[166]

Production years on the 166 should be from 1982-1990.

 

[nicksterdemus]

Snagged the molested 123

It runs, and doesn't look that bad, yet someone lacking skill has had a hand on the old gal.

American stovebolts have stripped the threads on the exhaust flange of an otherwise solid muffler. One side looks as though I might salvage w/tap, but I fear the helicoil is inevitable.

The bar mount studs shoulders are worn and the flange nuts give the appearance of being removed and tightened w/loose cresent wrench or an oversized SAE wrench.

I'm gonna have a closer peek at the IPL as something is askew w/choke handle as it's really tight, yet it works.

Top of the head is stamped, in small type, 5, w/P5E under that & large B towards the center. Eleven fins, 2 ring flat top.

Tillotson carb-S187A418

Looks like the fan shroud & recoil starter were not removed.

On/off works, but the 5 pnt anti-vib rubbers are shot.

I figure that if I run across a 133 w/good jug/piston I could upgrade.

I guess they interchange.

Anywho, I'm going to tear it down further, clean, inspect and replace a few parts before slinging it off in a log.

 

[leeha]

The one in the picture has 82 marked on the air filter cover. So it looks to be manufactured in 1982. Serial # on this saw is 166/002404. What does your air filter cover say on the bottom?



Yup

This saw i just got has the 82 and another
i have has an 82 and one other has an 85.
All my others have the west coast filter.


Lee

 

[cuttinscott]

This saw i just got has the 82 and another
i have has an 82 and one other has an 85.
All my others have the west coast filter.


Lee

Lee any of the Major Mag Parts there will be a date code



Scott

 

[leeha]

Lee any of the Major Mag Parts there will be a date code



Scott

Didn't realize that.
Good to know.

Thanks Lee

 

[nicksterdemus]

Ninth chapter, position #10 on the 123, 133 & 133 super IPL carburateur schematics, 6/87-995 700 057 (D, GB, F, E), is the governor valve.

How exactly does that valve regulate the RPMs?

Also, why does the 143 not have this type governor?

Does it incorporate a centrifugal style governor?
-----------------
BTW, what happened w/PS-401?

Lightweight mag crankcase, 8.2lbs, 2.3hp and besides the small oil hole & an overworking oil pump were there any other issues?

I read where some replaced the oiler w/adjustable model.

Anywho, for around 2 1/2 bills it seems like a nice rig w/o limiters & a muffler mod.

Doesn't have a primer bulb and the choke rotates similiar to the si models.

What does the PS-45 do better than the 401?

 

[67 Mustang]

Ninth chapter, position #10 on the 123, 133 & 133 super IPL carburateur schematics, 6/87-995 700 057 (D, GB, F, E), is the governor valve.

How exactly does that valve regulate the RPMs?

Also, why does the 143 not have this type governor?

Does it incorporate a centrifugal style governor?

Some Tilly HS carbs (and HL, maybe others) incorporate this type of governor. My understanding here is basic but they seem to incorporate a small BB inside that vibrates faster as rpm's increase. The faster it vibrates the more it blocks fuel in carb. They seem to either work or not. Some folks have had success blocking the function of the governor with a disc made of heavy tin oil when it didn't work correctly. There's other posts on here that describe this better. I searched but couldn't find them. Maybe someone else can expound on this. BTW, the 143 IPL that I have shows this governor incorporated on the carb there as well.

 

[leeha]

From what i understand, When the engine reaches
a certain rpm, Which would be max rpm, The engine produces enough vacume to open this valve and cause
the engine to run rich and not over rev or run lean.
Many users have pulled this valve out and installed a small
washer then reinstall the valve to eliminate it.

And the 143 doe's have this valve as well.



Lee

 

[pioneerguy600]

From what i understand, When the engine reaches
a certain rpm, Which would be max rpm, The engine produces enough vacume to open this valve and cause
the engine to run rich and not over rev or run lean.
Many users have pulled this valve out and installed a small
washer then reinstall the valve to eliminate it.

And the 143 doe's have this valve as well.



Lee

+1, and the simpler fix is to just fill the gov jet with JB weld, or solder it shut, reinstall and just run the carb with the adjustment needles set just a tad rich on the H side.

Pioneerguy600

 

[67 Mustang]

I figured someone else would come along who had an understanding of the governor.

 

[lone wolf]

I had one back in 1989 cant remember the model number but it was about the size of my husky 254 and it was light and it would beat the 254. Anyone know what model that would have been?

 

[nicksterdemus]

Thanks again guys. I noticed it while I was writing down, then transferring to my 123 file, mucho nine digit numbers consisting of three sets of three numbers.

Lawdy, I haven't written so much since sometime in the last millennium.

I have writer's cramp, best break out the BenGay.

Feel free to make your own jokes w/set-up.

The German, English, French & Spanish IPL that I'm referencing lists the four models on the right side. Makes it easier to cross reference the same part between models.

Tillotson HS and then below that a newer, I presume, model Tillotson 232 A, both of which are only shown for the 143.

I guessed, apparently incorrectly, that the 143 carb didn't have this governing valve coz it's not listed.

I also see that the 143 has two choke shaft listings, which I figure is for the two models of the carb.

I like the idea of jb weld and set the high speed rich enough to prevent over revving.

I must glean the fertile minds of the pros for the stubble to sustain mien curiosity, provide sound explanations and logical solutions.

As usual youse guys are da best!

W/your help I'm going to get the three saws up and running w/as many new parts as I can lay my hands on.

Oil pump & carb kits are a must & while I have them down to tanks off I want to replace bad rubbers, lines, clean them of all the oil/two cycle smoke residue and slap a little Dolmar orange on the bare metal spots.

Any particular flywheel puller for the 120super/si/123 that you can recommend?

I want to be thorough in cleaning. I guess I'll also either buy a pressure gauge to check the condition of the oil seals or after reaching that point of disassembly take them to my local guy for a peek.

Fat chance of anyone, other than moi, looking at them anytime soon.