Saw techniques and cutting/felling safety

[SawWitch]

MEH, cant seem to watch that... any other link to it in another format maybe or something???

Try to get you rep, must wait a while....

 

[SawTroll]

Look over the Norwegian diagram for open face attached to this post.

Forget that it is a different language.

Step back a bit a try not to be so reactionary. Don't beat the piss and vinegar out of me. Breathe deep and relax.

In a forest where almost everything isn't second growth, it's 15th growth.
Where very few snags have your name on them.
Tree heights and diameters are small.
Minimal butt swell.

I don't like that drawing (here) at all.

There usually is no need to have a notch that are more than 45 degrees, and I like the notch to be deeper than in the drawing, unless the tree is a front leaner.

Backcut should be over the flat bottom cut in the notch, but in small wood, not nessessarily as much as the often described min. 2 inches.....

 

[smokechase II]

Where did you come from?

Sawtrol:

Where did you migrate to Norway from? Northern California? The Olympic Peninsula near Forks Washington?

You seem out of place in the land of the open face.

By the way, what got me started on the PowerPoint drawings back in posts 162 and 163 of this thread was something you said.
"I like faces deeper into tree as they put more weight on the falling side of the hinge." Or to that effect. I knew that larger faces have merit by experience. You just simply helped me understand. Embarrassing to admit that but thanks.

We just had another Scandinavian, (can't give out his name), admit to large bars on the sly. What's next? A Dane who keeps his dawgs on his saw?

 

[PA Plumber]

I don't like that drawing (here) at all.

There usually is no need to have a notch that are more than 45 degrees, and I like the notch to be deeper than in the drawing, unless the tree is a front leaner.

Back cut should be over the flat bottom cut in the notch, but in small wood, not necessarily as much as the often described min. 2 inches.....

Uh oh. I have been felling 100 % of my trees very similar to that drawing. Saves a lot of butt wood and I have had no trouble with side/back leaners yet. I haven't tried any extreme leans. I have had to double some 10" wedges a few times, but the trees still go on over.

Also, I saw it mentioned that a deep face helps give the tree more momentum. Is this just for the middle of the fall, or does it help at the beginning also?

 

[Fubar411]

Here is the first program that will be broadcast in Swedish television this fall !
The program will handle the dangers involved using a chainsaw ,,, (yeah right)
It's shows some basic things, thought I post it here ,,,,
(it's in Kermit language)

http://www3.ur.se/i3asx.aspx?filnam...titel=Motors%E5gsskolan+%3A+Motors%E5gsskolan

Do you have any more of these? I really like the show.

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Do you have any more of these? I really like the show.

Not yet but hopefully later this year !!

 

[ShoerFast]

Some trees are just not big enough for a wedge (trees from the 12' - 18' class) or too tall / heavy to use a lever on. or just need a little more persuasion then just wedging.

I know this will just sound to dangerous to some, that's why I'm asking questions.

There is something I hope to try sometime, and that would be to take a piece of overload truck spring and stick it in a smaller tree that may need a little more persuasion. Using the truck spring as a wedge, and a felling lever, with a bottle jack on the ground to lift the exposed portion of the truck spring. (with the jack on the ground )

I get fair luck and seems reasonably safe to use a bottle jack on trees that can be notched to fit one, but the truck spring seems that it would work as a wedge/felling lever and for trees not large enough to notch for a jack.

My first thoughts are that the tree may need a bore cut in the center to keep the saw away from the spring if any more hinge/hold wood needed cut. but should be able to see right away if the top is moving with the jack?

Anyone ever try anything like this?

 

[clearance]

You can wedge over any tree, simple really. Put in the backcut first, stick in the wedge, then make the undercut. Now pound in the wedge.

 

[ShoerFast]

You can wedge over any tree, simple really. Put in the backcut first, stick in the wedge, then make the undercut. Now pound in the wedge.

Thanks, I keep hearing that, but the ones that seem a little more challenge to me are the very tall side-hill trees, heavy mass on the south side , that need to be dropped to the north, just for a say.

 

[tek9tim]

I like your creative solution. But, I'm not sure that you could keep the spring on the jack, (insert lateral lisp and geeky glasses here) especially with a metal to metal interface and the varying geometry as you raise the jack. Also getting a solid spot to set the jack seems somewhat problematic, especially given root protrustions, and the spring needing to be into the tree as far as possible, as wells as aligned in a perpendicular manner to the direction of fall. Just can't have the same flexability of placement that you would need in real world ground situations. Keep thinking outside the box.