Saw techniques and cutting/felling safety

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Good illustrations about undercut depth and placement. Like the idea of building a powerpoint slide show to help illustrate this stuff. I am working on video clips of the various techniques I have learned from Dent and from my experiences over the years with different fallers to help our fallers out with making the job easier and more safer. I have about 2 hrs worth of raw footage that I have to edit down and add some voice over narration to help explain things. I have completed the following so far: Gunning high on a heavy side leaner, falling trees larger than your bar length, Boring backcut. I will aquire more footage throughout the summer to build these video clips and will put some on when I get it done. I would like to get some shots working on a 6ft DBH tree to help illustrate some the techniques in getting these lumpkins down with a minimum of energy expenditure. I have a couple of 6-7ft sugar pine roadside snags that will fit this criteria just need to get the time to do it.

As far as working on the Berdu no. i go down and help out with the class and to help keep my Certifier status current.

I know there was a person killed near Crestline a few yrs back from a falling tree that the faller threw up the hill and the person drove throught that the all clear was given. I believe it was a supervisor but can't remember the whole thing.
Seen a cool shot on you tube of a tree barberchairing on this person cutting slow with a stihl 076. Looks like a instructing session as the faller looked pretty inexperienced using the saw.

Checked out the Tim Ard videos on you tube and it looks pretty interesting to watch different methods for cutting and using a saw.
 
Interesting

Every time I watch a Scandinavian video I discover a different way to carry a chain saw.

The way you guys limb we would not consider at all.

In short, with longer bars, which we must have, the tip would find its way into all sorts of bad places. The bending over is a tough gig also.

Related to the safety theme of this thread: Can anyone see that when dropping trees of this nature, that looking up isn't as important as around 'damaged' trees or snags?

BUT, that for us fire fighting hazard tree types, we'd sure like people doing it even on open stands of green solid timber just to establish the correct abilities and habits.

I'm curious, on the tree being fell, that stump was unnecessarily high. Was that just for the training needs of the video?

Thanks for posting.

By the way. To all you Scandibavians and even Germans here on AS. Thanks for your posting in English. I'm constantly amazed how bright you folks are even after all the languages you've mastered. Or perhaps because of ....
 
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Barber Chair video

Here is the Barber Chair video that I believe Burt is referring to:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9eMk5kCgCI

Back on the safety theme;
1) Could he have any more of his neck and back at a right angle to threats from above? This sets a new standard.
2) Sharp saws are cool.
3) This is explained as a rope pull sponsored 'chair.
 
Found one list in Fallers' & Buckers' Handbook.
All trees will Barberchair, but the folllowing species should be the most suspect: Cottonwood, Balsam, Alder, Pine, Yellow Cedar, Red Cedar, Spruce and Hemlock.
 
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Every time I watch a Scandinavian video I discover a different way to carry a chain saw.

The way you guys limb we would not consider at all.

In short, with longer bars, which we must have, the tip would find its way into all sorts of bad places. The bending over is a tough gig also.

Related to the safety theme of this thread: Can anyone see that when dropping trees of this nature, that looking up isn't as important as around 'damaged' trees or snags?

BUT, that for us fire fighting hazard tree types, we'd sure like people doing it even on open stands of green solid timber just to establish the correct abilities and habits.

I'm curious, on the tree being fell, that stump was unnecessarily high. Was that just for the training needs of the video?

Thanks for posting.

By the way. To all you Scandibavians and even Germans here on AS. Thanks for your posting in English. I'm constantly amazed how bright you folks are even after all the languages you've mastered. Or perhaps because of ....


The high stump I think was a part of the traning video, and the limbing ain't that bad for your back if you do it as they do in the video and "resting" the saw on the tree ,,, ( I cut you in on a lill secret, I got longer bars for the times when I can't fell trees on high stumps, stones and other stuff that will lift the tree up from the ground a bit ,, but don't tell after all I am a Scandinavian and we take some pride in using short bars :p )
 
No sry Blis, do you use explorer or firefox ??

nvm, got it working with ie...


The high stump I think was a part of the traning video, and the limbing ain't that bad for your back if you do it as they do in the video and "resting" the saw on the tree ,,, ( I cut you in on a lill secret, I got longer bars for the times when I can't fell trees on high stumps, stones and other stuff that will lift the tree up from the ground a bit ,, but don't tell after all I am a Scandinavian and we take some pride in using short bars :p )

to say the truth about limbing, its will tire you really quickly if you dont have the proper technique (i was exhausted after one spruce when i still practising limbing) but after you get hang of technique its pretty much like walking along the tree and watch branches fall off...

but few points that caught my attention in video...

sissy-starting the saw :pumpkin2:
e-tech 346xp :deadhorse:
triple-brake 346xp :deadhorse: :deadhorse:
ppe :cheers:
limbing speed, well, my dead grandpa would have limbed faster...
 
Found one list in Fallers' & Buckers' Handbook.
All trees will Barberchair, but the folllowing species should be the most suspect: Cottonwood, Balsam, Alder, Pine, Yellow Cedar, Red Cedar, Spruce and Hemlock.

Pretty well every tree in B.C., I have read that book as well. The only money tree left out is Doug. fir. Cottonwood for damn sure, alder, yeah, the others, not so much, never being concerned about them as much, when making proper cuts to deal with leaners that is.
 
The high stump I think was a part of the traning video, and the limbing ain't that bad for your back if you do it as they do in the video and "resting" the saw on the tree ,,, ( I cut you in on a lill secret, I got longer bars for the times when I can't fell trees on high stumps, stones and other stuff that will lift the tree up from the ground a bit ,, but don't tell after all I am a Scandinavian and we take some pride in using short bars :p )

I'm no production cutter, but when you dump a tree onto a rock, doesn't it often times break? Or maybe your trees are so small that they don't even hit the ground with enough momentum to break. Hehe, only kidding.
 
I'm no production cutter, but when you dump a tree onto a rock, doesn't it often times break? Or maybe your trees are so small that they don't even hit the ground with enough momentum to break. Hehe, only kidding.

Well the trees are small against some of yours for sure :)
and yes you can sometime break a tree felling it over things but I have never experienced it myself, but have broke some trees due to bad aiming, ending up felling the tree into another tree :D
 
breakage

Tim:

Smaller trees, (climate and 15th growth). That drop generally with less force. Somewhat resilient young trees.

I bet their breakage problems aren't near what our loggers have to work around.

For me, I'm just a dumb a___ Forest Service guy who likes to hit rocks. Means less limbing and especially bucking.

By the way. Checks in the mail. Plain brown wrapper from FS Office in Bend.
 
Seismic Bucking

Hey Bill you use that trick too huh. I use alot when I am cutting on burned snags during site prep clear falling jobs to save me bucking. If there are no rocks to hit I will fall some larger trees crossways to the lead I am falling and spread them out at the bucking length I need and start slamming my trees over them as hard as i can ( Deep undercuts) to break them up over the top. Works pretty good if the cross trees are bigger diameter and the falling ones are smaller 20" less. Its known around here as seismic bucking.
 
Yes, everyone stay alert and safe. Danger is sometimes a matter of opinion sometimes not, be safe and figure out what works for you. I know enough "Techniques" to get me through my business safely and effectively but it is good to know what everyone thinks because someone just might learn something like me everyday in this business.


PPE, PPE and PPE. I can't talk enough about it. It stay my hearth nearest, cannot talk enough about what can happend. I've seen so much bad chainsaw can do with they who don't use PPE.

Troll and me never use chainsaw without PPE. But I have a "little" problem. No dealer have so small boots that I need. But the dealer can get some extra-delivery.
Take good care!!!
 
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