Sawing in water

[555JM]

Hi,
Another question for the chain saw brain trust.

I'm planning to saw up a few trees that went down in the river behind the house. This happened a few years ago during an ice storm and I left them there figuring they'd attract fish. Instead they attracted silt and my shoreline is silting in. I'd like to cut them up and float them free if possible.

The biggest is about 25" in diameter at the base, looks like basswood. The others are smaller, cherry and maple as I recall. They've been down since 2002, so the parts under water are probably waterlogged.

I figure I can do maybe 60% of what needs to be done without getting the blade in the water....but to finish most of the cuts, I'll have to get it wet.

Anyone here done this before? Got any tips or techniques? What can I expect with the saws....ruined bars, sprockets, chains, anything else? Probably that gooey Poulan bar oil I hate so much would work best.

I'm going to try to get all my out-of-water cuts done before plunging in. Might also use an old Craftsman/Poulan for most of the water cuts to spare my Husky and Dolmar. The C/P runs good but kicks back viciously everytime you try to start it. Might be a good job for a new WoodShark

Thanks.
Bob

P.S. Oh yeah, please be looking for my future thread: "Saw got dropped in the river-How do I fix?":yoyo:

 

[romeo]

When your cutting under water, fill your bar oiler with 10w-30. You will oil out faster and it is not biodegradable like bar oil. As long as you blow it all out with an air compressor when your done you shouldnt have any problem. I cut a bunch of elms once that were fell in a pond the same way.

 

[Four Paws]

I think you have the right idea - use the Crapsman/Pull-on for the water cuts! I'd keep my good saws dry, or at least use a crappy bar and chain! The silt sounds much worse than the water!

 

[Max]

Don't neglect the use of a good hand saw if the situation presents itself.
If you go with the chainsaw, spray everything down with WD40 before submerging it in water. Then clean and blow off with compressed air and re-lube as you deem necessary. Good luck! Watch the slippery stuff.

 

[Lakeside53]

Value the environment - don't use any petroleum oil when cutting in water. Your local laws most likely make this an offense anyhow...

Either use a bio oil, which can be as simple as canola oil for short term use, or, just don't use any oil at all. The water lubricates just fine if part of the bar is in the water. The water doesn't hurt the saw or the bar. Many companies out here do marine work and cut piles on or under the water (Hydraulic chainsaw). No oil is used.

Be very carefully - you can't see what you are cutting under water as the water will fill up with saw "dust" (Sludge) and slit. Wood moves in the water so expect a bar pinch or two... Take the saw from the bar if it gets pinched, then work the problem.

Run a full safety chain... wear you chaps in the water and steel cap boots of you have them. Have someone watch you. It's alway best (if possible) to cut of the trees where attached to the ground just yard them out with a truck or winch, then deal with them on the shore.

After use, put standard bar oil in the saw and run it for a while to get hot - it will dry out. Then spray WD40 as required..

Romeo: 10w-30 isn't biodegradable, and neither is bar oil!

 

[Doctor Dave]

Hi,
Another question for the chain saw brain trust.

I'm planning to saw up a few trees that went down in the river behind the house. This happened a few years ago during an ice storm and I left them there figuring they'd attract fish. Instead they attracted silt and my shoreline is silting in. I'd like to cut them up and float them free if possible.

The biggest is about 25" in diameter at the base, looks like basswood. The others are smaller, cherry and maple as I recall. They've been down since 2002, so the parts under water are probably waterlogged.

I figure I can do maybe 60% of what needs to be done without getting the blade in the water....but to finish most of the cuts, I'll have to get it wet.

Anyone here done this before? Got any tips or techniques? What can I expect with the saws....ruined bars, sprockets, chains, anything else? Probably that gooey Poulan bar oil I hate so much would work best.

I'm going to try to get all my out-of-water cuts done before plunging in. Might also use an old Craftsman/Poulan for most of the water cuts to spare my Husky and Dolmar. The C/P runs good but kicks back viciously everytime you try to start it. Might be a good job for a new WoodShark

Thanks.
Bob

P.S. Oh yeah, please be looking for my future thread: "Saw got dropped in the river-How do I fix?":yoyo:

You might want to reconsider the whole project. While you may not be seeing big fish that you can catch holding under/near the trees, it sounds like it's habitat for young fish, either gamefish fry or food fish for your pike, bass, or trout. There is certainly an increase in aquatic insects that all small fish feast on.

The area probably qualifies as a wetland, and there's probably a regulation or two out there you could be breaking---not that I'm gonna drop a dime on you.

If you cut 'em anyway, I'd consider hand tools and a neighbor's tractor and some chain. I don't know if you have neighbors, or how nosey they are, but a lot of bar oil floating by them might produce a call to DEQ or whatever it's called in NY.

 

[klickitatsacket]

When I was younger my family cut cedar shake bolts for a living. Many times the best wood was preserved because it was in swamps or in creeks. If wet, cedar will actually last longer then if it allowed to get wet then dry over and over. Any how the trick to cutting it in the water was to have a junk bar and run it extrememly loose and NO BAR OIL. Like having a quarter inch of loop hanging. This is a little DANGEROUS if you are not paying attention. However when cutting anything where the water itself is touching your bar and chain; it works. This is a common trick for guys cutting root wads on the waters edge. Just pay extra attention and wear your PPE. Oh yeah, do not use any oil. Why ruin the creek?

 

[Chopwood]

Hey 555- I live in Fulton, just south of Oswego. Where are you out of. If you need some help, let me know, I'm always looking for a new place to fish

 

[Oregon Engineer]

Please use the Bio-oil if you are going to cut the trees. The wear on the bar and chain will be more when cutting underwater.

When you are done, dry out the bar and chain then oil them good before storing them.

You will be surprized how much power it takes to run the chain in the water. I've been involved with companies doing underwater tree harvesting (some bright guy floods an area and then decides to remove the trees). They usually report a 30% reduction in power when "cutting just water".

 

[555JM]

Thanks to all for the informative posts

Lots of good information here. Happy to hear from those that have been there & done that. 30% power loss for running in water? Yikes!

Going to have to wait for the water to go down some. It's usually low in early autumn, but not this year. Looks like nearly a week of rain in the forecast, so it may be awhile before I try this. Hope I don't have to come back and ask about cutting wood embedded in ice.

Fired up the Craftsman/Poulan in anticipation of the event. It's 42cc with an 18" bar and hadn't been run in a year. Put a slat through the handle, stood on it with both feet and pulled it through the kickback with both hands. The darned thing actually did good once I got it running. Didn't even bother with fresh gas. Cut a few blocks off some 22" stuff that was lying in the yard....never missed a beat and only bogged once. Danged saw is too good for the river.
Bob