Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
ok...dumb question time. The NC30 burns great N/S. I have heard of people loading N/S stoves E/W and it burns slower. How do you do that when the doghouse shoots air to the back? Load the bottom layer N/S then E/W on top?

The little S244's I have are wider than deep and look to be designed for mainly E/W loading, but I cant get it to burn very good unless I cut pieces really short (9") and load it N/S. Is there some really easy stupid thing I'm missing to E/W loading?
just rotate your stove 180* for optimum burn time. :omg:
 
I do the E/W thing, air flows down the front glass along the bottom and up. For best results get yourself a good base of coals then load a smaller piece at the back and a big kahona in the front. As the air flow is blocked it will give you maximum burn times but won’t crank out as much heat. The bigger piece at the front will burn faster then the smaller one at the back due to the additional air flow it receives.
To ensure you get the thing burning it does help to as you say put some N/S pieces under the big logs.
 
Got got a few Cords cut and a couple hauled out to start the new year off right. The rounds don’t look big in the photo but the 24 inch bar didn’t quite make it through. Pretty good scrounging day spent with my dad and brother View attachment 622495first load
View attachment 622492
View attachment 622496
View attachment 622493
View attachment 622494
View attachment 622497
Second load above
Still have to go back and haul 2 Cord on the ground

That's great work, mate. I wish I had a trailer like that.
 
Ahhhh, that is useful to know and explains some files I'd found on eBay.

Really? Banco = Sandvik. Didn't know snap on were the same

Sandivik sold Bahco to Snap-on about twenty years ago when they wanted to get out of the hand tool business. Think Komatsu selling Zenoah to Husqvarna and you get the idea. ;)

American companies have been on a rampage in the European tool market over the past couple of decades. Apart from Snap-on, Stanley (which later merged with Black & Decker) has bought FACOM, Pastorino, USAG, Virax, Britool... you name it.
 
To ensure you get the thing burning it does help to as you say put some N/S pieces under the big logs.
I'm not really concerned with burn times in the garage. I need a raging fire in that little stove. I have been puting a small piece E/W on the bottom in the back, then cutting splits on the mitre saw down to 10" and laying them in N/S propped up on the log in the back, then lay a flat long piece in on top of the 4 pieces that are N/S and that seems to do it but that sounds kinda stupid to have to do that.
 
SCORE.

BIG pile of wood on a jobsite. Called the excavation company and they said I have to come in and sign a waiver and the pile is mine! Anybody in the central Ohio area need some wood?!

Don't waste valuable scrounging time here, go get it! :chop:
 
ok...dumb question time. The NC30 burns great N/S. I have heard of people loading N/S stoves E/W and it burns slower. How do you do that when the doghouse shoots air to the back? Load the bottom layer N/S then E/W on top?

The little S244's I have are wider than deep and look to be designed for mainly E/W loading, but I cant get it to burn very good unless I cut pieces really short (9") and load it N/S. Is there some really easy stupid thing I'm missing to E/W loading?
My old Russo insert stuck out on the hearth far enough to put a tea kettle or soup pan on it. It was deep enough that I could put 20" wood N/S and pack it tight. I would get 12 hour burns and had to keep windows cracked. Last year my wife wanted a new Prettier stove. Didn't want half the thing sticking out. A friend had a Jotul and loved it, so she had to have a Jotul. So she got an insert that is flush with the front of the fireplace. It's not deep enough to load N/S and I can only get half a load in it E/W or it all falls on the door. I'm burning all 2-3 year seasoned Oak and have a hard time keeping my 1400 sf house at 65, bed rooms much cooler. But, it's Prettier, Joe.
 
My unsplit pile is coming along nice. I need to triple the size thoughView attachment 622498
I know how much weight I can put on my single axle dump, you got a load on there. I max out at about 2 ton of wood, trailer rate at 5000. A full load of green Oak and I think I'm over max. I have my sideboards made for exactly 1 cord split, Joe.
 
James, I didn't go back and see just what the file "fitting" problem was. If I'm in a Stihl dealers I get Stihl files, if I'm in Ace Hardware I get Oregon. It seems the first time I sharpen any chain the file is a little tight. I kind of have to massage it to get the first stroke or two, from there on out everything is fine, Joe.

Yes to a 'tight' fit on the first filing. Hard to get the right size file in between the top edge of the tooth and the depth gauage. I finally changed my clamp-on file guide to a bit less that the 35* recommended. Still some interference there but no bad. It is only on the first filing the problem shows up.
 
u3ujFZ289pkzlE1cI9KBm40Ky-ODK7z8MqvfZrUtVY6TEFsjb9arAb-YZmvRFZKrWkKRxmIO08l0hpv7y0UxjJztTt8ylTC9Cql0tTYMz0iyLxzlHJ8xI7XUCSVTUf8UY0DWSAWDS0s_1ifw3EgSQaxWE5kNG2gogdnQanNP51WAzSxOEuwJu6koafEtMezT65nfW2SMB-dM_86wX3PsNjT1ZQmxmjqjduugAvpsry64xqazAZM26FyZxSVlfz5MOF5gB5GKdn-q1QkQHm9ul5_bEix82JKI0W5J0_zuiTzLfU5l__JYXNniFUMWoU7Lh1TcUKMwaX2feqvQlG-gJHItQy-gh8Cif1H2ghTzWAO6Q6P5PkWGe4fUhRufuEPXb2Li4TjyiuCo8kjiSJhmtqT1Ca1LcNT9ApO7hQlvcHlekmraIzQLk5k_mC4y42kOMZlgx4Ptdzf9W9iw2fQ2qz2nMPQcGQ210KXdWb1oBCJdht0GDJ0cB75T4JoXfN_C6fQpL_RMeAv8MA9tF4TkE3JZP7gG8fBhzrmHOYvjYEi62I8-f6J7OAlfWNgBVJpdhUjGim4vfxfQ-XFxucXwZUcRDOxSd9dRJVBQdxN3=w1244-h935-no


??

Same, just a minus bar. If posting from Photobucket, lord knows what you will get.
 
SCORE.

BIG pile of wood on a jobsite. Called the excavation company and they said I have to come in and sign a waiver and the pile is mine! Anybody in the central Ohio area need some wood?!
Call it a GTG and help will pop out of the weeds. Just let them know how long it needs to be or it will all be an inch or less :lol:
 
My old Russo insert stuck out on the hearth far enough to put a tea kettle or soup pan on it. It was deep enough that I could put 20" wood N/S and pack it tight. I would get 12 hour burns and had to keep windows cracked. Last year my wife wanted a new Prettier stove. Didn't want half the thing sticking out. A friend had a Jotul and loved it, so she had to have a Jotul. So she got an insert that is flush with the front of the fireplace. It's not deep enough to load N/S and I can only get half a load in it E/W or it all falls on the door. I'm burning all 2-3 year seasoned Oak and have a hard time keeping my 1400 sf house at 65, bed rooms much cooler. But, it's Prettier, Joe.

Call it a GTG and help will pop out of the weeds. Just let them know how long it needs to be or it will all be an inch or less :lol:
if you can get them to use the measuring stick or mingo marker.:laughing:
 
image.jpg Joe, my brother in law has a pretty stove, his living room stays nice and warm but the bedrooms can be quite a bit chillier. Me, I have a ugly stove (55gallon drum kit) stuffed in my basement and this is the thermostat near the bedrooms. The wife thinks it's ugly as sin but it belts out heat. And I'm sure it's in-efficient as all hell but when it's this warm, who's complaining??
 
Back
Top