Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[Multifaceted]

I guess I'll have to give it a try. There 5 minutes from home so what's a gallon to see if it makes a difference.

That's very convenient. They're about 30 minutes from me, just south of Fairfield. I'll go and fill up on 87 and 91 once every 2 months. I still add stabilizer.

 

[Hinerman]

Wicked Work saws. Terry Landrum I think is his name.

I have a couple saws from him. Sold a 3rd one. He builds some good ones. That 395 was clipping right along, as well as any i have seen, as far as i could tell at least.

 

[pdqdl]

50:1 TruFuel is $5 / quart here at the store where you save BIG money!
(or $17 for almost a gallon: 110 ounces)

Philbert

Thank you for noting that the cans aren’t a true gallon, I was crucified when I brought that up.

110 oz isn't very close to a gallon. 110/128=.859 = 86% of a gallon.

That's 14% short! $5/ quart (less 14%) becomes $5.81*4=$23.26 per gallon !!

It might be more practical to get a handsaw.

 

[Philbert]

That's 14% short! $5/ quart (less 14%) becomes $5.81*4=$23.26 per gallon !!

Since the 110 oz container is $17, it works out to $19.78 / gallon. Not much of a savings over buying the quarts.

It depends on the fuel and the conditions.

Never had the electrons in my battery saws go bad. Sure, some leak out over time, but they are easily replaced.

Philbert

 

[chipper1]

bank transfer done....Let's hope the courier gods are kind and i may have a (hopefully) super clean husqvarna 365 to play with at the weekend. I have a bit of bigger wood to one side...I hope i need more...i hope i need much much more!

Hope you get your saw soon Niel.
Just remember...(obviously this is the US version lol).

 

[Multifaceted]

At my local saw/equipment shop they specifically advertise the TruFuel as "less than a gallon" because some blowhard came in, bought a square can of the 87 octane and added his oil mix to it for 2 stroke, then came back complaining thst it caused problems because it wasn't a full gallon. Can't see how, I'd imagine too little oil would be far worse in the mix. I hear the reason it is underfilled is because it is vacuumed sealed with headspace to allow for expansion.

TruFuel is costly, but not as much as Motomix - yikes!

 

[chipper1]

I say I run 50:1, but I actually put a 5 gallon bottle of oil mix in the jug and then add 4 1/2 gallons of gas. So, whatever that comes out to?

I'll take the bait Joe.
45:1
.9x5=4.5

 

[chipper1]

It might be more practical to get a handsaw.

You sir are out of the club .

 

[bigfellascott]

Been running my Oleomac 936 (36cc saw) it's a bit of a weapon in the 12-14" hardwood we have to cut around our area, I like it as it's nice and light and the 14" bar seems up to the job no worries at all. My mate ran it for a bit and said it didn't give up anything to his 445 Husky ( I think it surprised him how well it cuts) no surprise to me as it was my go to saw for quite a few years and it's cut up some very large gum trees in its time.

 

[rarefish383]

You sir are out of the club .

If he gets a hand saw like this I'd let him stay. It's the 100CC version.

 

[Deleted member 149229]

If he gets a hand saw like this I'd let him stay. It's the 100CC version.

Ported?

 

[muddstopper]

I want to commit about gas mix, but You'all will think I am crazy.. I only buy regular ethanol gas for everything from my car to my boat to my saws and weedeaters. I keep a 2.5 gal can of gas/mix in the basement storage which is damp most of the time. The can dont even have a lid on the spout. I have never had a problem with water in the gas or gas that wont burn in a engine. The 2.5 gal can will last me all summer in my weedeater and the occasional chainsaw fill up. What ever is left in the can when it comes time to split wood, goes in my wood splitter and I will mix up a new can full for the saws. In my boat. I add stabil to every fillup. I just see no reason to burn hytest gas in my 2cycles, nor do I see any reason to purchase nonethanol gas. I drove high mileage every week for 40 years and I tried every octane fuel available and probably most of the gas additives that are supposed to help fuel economy. I kept actual mileage and fuel use records for many years. I can say with sincerity, regular 87 octaine gas is the best bang for the buck. Yes 95 octane might give you a extra mile or two per gallion, but it will never make up for the difference in cost per fillup. My last new car(2001 ford zx2) is still running with 312,0000 miles on it and has never had a motor issue and only one timing belt. My grandson drives it daily. My current "new" car (2010 fusion) has 150k miles and only thing it gets are oil changes. All they ever see is the regular ethanol gas. In fact every car I have owned in the last 30-40 years had 200k+ miles on them when I got rid of them and none of them had engine problems and none of them got premium gas. Maybe running premium gas will keep my cars from rusting away, but I cant see better engine life than what I get with the regular gas.

 

[chipper1]

If he gets a hand saw like this I'd let him stay. It's the 100CC version.

Very nice Joe.
I've been looking for one like that but with the "helper handle" that is just ahead of the d-handle. Some were movable, but I don't see the hole in the blade on yours to move it to.
I've had quite a few opportunities to buy them, they were just more than I want to spend or sold before I could get to them because they were a bit aways from the house.
I have a spot above the mantle I want to put one that would be perfect for a four footer since we have cathedral ceilings in the family room.
I'll get one some day .

 

[chipper1]

I want to commit about gas mix, but You'all will think I am crazy.. I only buy regular ethanol gas for everything from my car to my boat to my saws and weedeaters. I keep a 2.5 gal can of gas/mix in the basement storage which is damp most of the time. The can dont even have a lid on the spout. I have never had a problem with water in the gas or gas that wont burn in a engine. The 2.5 gal can will last me all summer in my weedeater and the occasional chainsaw fill up. What ever is left in the can when it comes time to split wood, goes in my wood splitter and I will mix up a new can full for the saws. In my boat. I add stabil to every fillup. I just see no reason to burn hytest gas in my 2cycles, nor do I see any reason to purchase nonethanol gas. I drove high mileage every week for 40 years and I tried every octane fuel available and probably most of the gas additives that are supposed to help fuel economy. I kept actual mileage and fuel use records for many years. I can say with sincerity, regular 87 octaine gas is the best bang for the buck. Yes 95 octane might give you a extra mile or two per gallion, but it will never make up for the difference in cost per fillup. My last new car(2001 ford zx2) is still running with 312,0000 miles on it and has never had a motor issue and only one timing belt. My grandson drives it daily. My current "new" car (2010 fusion) has 150k miles and only thing it gets are oil changes. All they ever see is the regular ethanol gas. In fact every car I have owned in the last 30-40 years had 200k+ miles on them when I got rid of them and none of them had engine problems and none of them got premium gas. Maybe running premium gas will keep my cars from rusting away, but I cant see better engine life than what I get with the regular gas.

What's key is that you are using the fuel and not letting it just sit terribly long, also higher milage cars are the ones you want, the insides are usually nice and clean in comparison to the short run/low milage ones since they don't typically even get warmed up enough to "burn" off the condensation in them as well as get to an optimal operating temp neither of which is as much of problem with a saw but running them frequently does help.
So if I run premium my rides won't rust, I'm in.

 

[Multifaceted]

High octane doesn't necessarily give you better performance, all it does is have a higher atomization rate, which means it burns slower. It is designed for engines or vehicles that have a high compression ratio. 2 cycle engines are high performance engines with higher compression ratio than most common gasoline 4 stroke. You can run lower octane fuel, no problem, but you'll get less performance.

I can run high octane in my car with probably no change in performance or mileage, (perhaps more internal carbon fouling) as my car was designed for low octane fuel. My wife can run low octane in her turbocharged vehicle which has a higher compression ratio (10.6:1), and will experience a quite noticable loss in power and fuel economy.

 

[rarefish383]

Very nice Joe.
I've been looking for one like that but with the "helper handle" that is just ahead of the d-handle. Some were movable, but I don't see the hole in the blade on yours to move it to.
I've had quite a few opportunities to buy them, they were just more than I want to spend or sold before I could get to them because they were a bit aways from the house.
I have a spot above the mantle I want to put one that would be perfect for a four footer since we have cathedral ceilings in the family room.
I'll get one some day .

That saw was actually one my dad used before they had small saws for up in trees. Funny, it's not really all that long ago that handsaws were common in limbing out big trees. The helper handle came off another saw. It was just in nice shape, and the wife and kids liked it, so I put it on Dad's saw. I have two more about the same size and at least one has a hole at both ends, Dad's only has the one hole at the far end.

 

[rarefish383]

High octane doesn't necessarily give you better performance, all it does is have a higher atomization rate, which means it burns slower. It is designed for engines or vehicles that have a high compression ratio. 2 cycle engines are high performance engines with higher compression ratio than most common gasoline 4 stroke. Yiu can run lower octane fuel, bo problem, but you'll get less performance.

I can run high octane in my car with probably no change in performance or mileage, (perhaps more internl carbon fouling) as my car was designed for low octane fuel. My wife can run low octane in her turbocharged vehicle which has a higher compression ratio (10.6:1), and will experience a quite noticable loss in power and fuel economy.

When we got our Tahoe, it specifically said NOT to use high test in it. It was made for 87 octane, and running higher rates could cause internal damage due to high carbon build up.

 

[LondonNeil]

Normally you'll see no performance benefit without advancing the timing. Modern cars have knock sensors and advance the timing as far possible.

 

[Multifaceted]

Normally you'll see no performance benefit without advancing the timing. Modern cars have knock sensors and advance the timing as far possible.

Agreed, and furthermore, knock sensors are not found in small 2 stroke engines... At least not to my knowledge. Engine knock and pre ignition are still factors in running low octane fuel in a high compression ratio cylinder.

I don't know about knocking in small engines, but a prolonged pre ignition environmental will definitely hamper the power, and I would imagine cause undue stress on the internal components.

You can get away with it in modern vehicle engines with computer management and sensors, but it's a gamble on small engines IMHO

Edit: yes, I know tons of folks who run low octane in their 2 strokes. I'm not a mechanic, but would rather run the recommended fuel type.

 

[LondonNeil]

Never had the electrons in my battery saws go bad. Sure, some leak out over time, but they are easily replaced.

Philbert

As you will know, batteries need a lot of care in his they are charged, stored and cycled, or their capacity is destroyed early. I'd say thats as bad as bad fuel problems