Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Is there anyone here with an Echo top handle and a Makita battery chainsaw? Am trying to decide between them. Mainly for small clearance jobs and trimming boards when milling. Too often lately I've had to start the 261 for just a few trimming cuts. Am not a fan of putting 'cold miles' on engines, but might be the occasional day where I'd burn through every battery I have if I was using a Makita chainsaw if on a clearance job and couldn't recharge batteries. Come to think of it, I just had one die on me, so might be time for a few more. Ouch.

I have both , I feel that the Echo would be the better of the 2 unless you really needed stealth .
 
Have a 4t PTO winch on Nemo but it's probably not pulling more than 3t before clutch slips. It's impossible to even move a log with a direct pull. Two blocks gave me 3x mechanical advantage which got the smallest red dragon log to just below the top of the slope but that was it. But the third block=4x3ish t = 12ish t pull got that and the second, bigger log to the landing. But that's maxing out the winch so I'm not sure how I'll go tomorrow when trying to get the last (butt log) up. These aren't massive logs, but the heaviest I've ever skull dragged up a crazy steep slope like this. Really surprised how well the first two went. But even with three blocks, everything feels right on the edge of disintegration.
Careful dancing around that edge @KiwiBro!
On the winch I just installed the winch itself at 8,000 pound capacity on the first wrap of the drum is the weakest link of the recovery gear set up. Next is the cable at between 9 & 10,000 pounds. Next is the winch to truck mount at 12,000 pounds (though that's a little subjective given my welding ability :eek:) There was actually a little thought given to these "planned failure" points.

Winch capacity drops as the layer of cable away from the drum increases. If your pulling from the 1st layer of cable with a 3t winch and you double or triple the pull with snatch blocks the "edge of disingration" (I like that term! :) ) might rise up quickly. Know where it is and be careful.
 
For small limbing, pruning, don't care about throw in the back of the truck just in case saws. I use poulan/craftsman saws. I can pick them up used for not much more than a loop of Stihl Picco. They are light and the ones I have had all run good and started easily with good maintenance. When a log rolls over on one or the chain brake spring goes boing or the adjuster takes a crap, I just go find another one. Not super noisy even with a muffler mod.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk
 
Gonna have to sell the farm to keep it lol.
I've heard it said if you want to make a little money logging you start out with a lot, I think farming is similar :eek:.

Sweet!
it's if ya wanna make money selling a hundred cords of wood start out with 200 cords.:surprised3:
 
told off and threatened?!
Yes. By a council lawyer who on her day off and only after I had dropped the boundary trees that blocked the sun to her property, decided the "ear splitting" noise was too much. Frankly, it was and just my luck to have her as a neighbor on that job.

Maybe an option might be to keep a spare unmolested muffler for any urban jungle expeditions.
 
. . . might be the occasional day where I'd burn through every battery I have if I was using a Makita chainsaw if on a clearance job and couldn't recharge batteries.
Yeah, aside from occasional use, it helps to have several batteries. That is why I always encourage folks to look at the entire battery platform, including other types of tools they might run. That might leave you with a good cache to use when doing chainsaw only tasks.

Philbert
 
Am not a fan of putting 'cold miles' on engines, but might be the occasional day where I'd burn through every battery I have if I was using a Makita chainsaw if on a clearance job and couldn't recharge batteries.
Here ya go, starts easy, not affected by cold miles and very quiet pluc eco friendly and batteries never need charged.
 

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