Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Scrounging but not firewood today.. changing it up while snow conditions are ideal with the little bit of equipment that I have. :)

This Tacoma never stops impressing me. Cut some spruce and fir today and hauled them with the Tacoma in 16-42 ft lengths. I say 42’ because a few times we decided to haul it as tree length (merchantable diameter only) and they were around 42 ft. Going back tomorrow morning until afternoon for some action again. This time, bigger and better. Right off the road. Same spot.
 

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Today’s lesson for me, it’s been quite some time that I’ve cut with the Husky brand chain. Been using Oregon EXJ exclusively for probably the past year.

The EXJ stays sharp for a very noticeable amount longer than the Husky chain.

I know this has been said before but I’ve never personally experienced the difference and now I know.

Especially noticed it when I went to do a touch up sharpening on the Husky chain today. Seems much softer when filing

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Hhhhmmmm. Something not right. The new husky chain I have is night and day better than the oregon chains I have. Honestly I think I just went through two gallons of fuel on my 550 without changing chains. I have probably a dozen of them and they are all great chains. Buy them in the box or have the dealer do them? Just had a guy buy two chains from a dealer and they were supposed to be stihl but they were oregon.
 
Oh, I'm all set now. I just got this in the mail. Apparently they have been tying to reach me about the warranty on my wheelbarrow! And it's the final notice.
View attachment 820507
I bought a 2012 VW Golf Diesel in 2012. Drove it 85K miles and 4 years. They bought it back in the diesel trouble they got into. Paid $23,000, they bought it back in 2016 for $21,300. I'm still getting calls for the warranty on it.
 
@chipper1 Nice videos! I need to learn more about filing down the rakes/safety humps on my chains. I've been hand filing for years, but I just file the cutters. I use to have the one local shop dress mine, but the chains seemed to dull super quick (You could see a discoloration in the cutting teeth where they used a grinder on them and they got hot, which may have changed the temper or something). Anyhow, since I've been hand filing, my chains seem to stay sharper longer. But, I have never adjusted the rakes, etc. I just buy new chains LOL!

I'll have to try and watch that video when I get some better signal.
If someone overheats them when sharpening they will get blued and it does change the temper, not for the better either. I will watch for a chain that's in rough condition and then do a video filing a few cutters and a few depth gauges and then a video of that chain cutting. Not sure why I've never done a video like that, guess it's like the reason I haven't gotten the chain vise yet lol.
Here's a good video on the principle I use for rakers.

This one shows the husky roller guide which is a great tool, but I wear through them quickly so I prefer the husky raker guide in the above video.
With the roller guide you can completely remove the gullet and the guide will still hold the file against the cutter at the proper height.
Some Aussie filing :).
 
I bought a 2012 VW Golf Diesel in 2012. Drove it 85K miles and 4 years. They bought it back in the diesel trouble they got into. Paid $23,000, they bought it back in 2016 for $21,300. I'm still getting calls for the warranty on it.
They got my mom to sign up 4 or 5 times. She couldn't understand and they would pressure her into it. Once they found she was an easy mark they just kept on it. I hope there is a special place in hell for them. :blob2:
 
View attachment 820551
The only parts of the cutter that really cut are: the top plate edge, the corner (or 'point'), and the upper part of the side plate edge. The gullet does not cut, but helps to carry away the chips.
Sometimes, sharpening guides only position the file to hit those important areas, and the gullets get neglected. This can result in a negative slope to the cutter, instead of the familiar 'C' profile, and the tooth will not cut well, even with sharp edges. Below, is a an extreme example:
View attachment 820554

Periodically cleaning out the gullet, to restore the original profile will improve performance. I do this with a file (any diameter) after sharpening the edges, or with the grinder wheel, again, after grinding the edges.

View attachment 820556

'Buckin' Billy Ray' has really emphasizes 'get the gullet!" in some of his YouTube videos. If you keep up with them as you sharpen, just like keeping up with the depth gauges, it's not a big deal.


Yeah, the EPA really made tune ups difficult!

Philbert
Dang that vanguard looks rough, I think they used a grinder on the depth gauges.
I just got one of those yesterday that's a dolmar chain. It along with a couple other came with a saw I bought, he just taps the raker on his bench grinder, those would be great for a video because they vary so much. His chains he does on a nice Oregon grinder, but he grinds down too far so he looses the hook and the sideplate ends up being straight, but the gullet is clean lol. If he stopped grinding about an 1/8 higher then they would have a nice hook and the pronounced "C" rather than a reversed "J". I remove the gullets on the grinder, but just as when filling the beginning of a new cutter I do it in two steps, the same way I do a square chain. When a chain is new I leave a bit of the gullet to help hold the file up. In the square grinding guide it shows leaving a ledge as it helps hold the file into the corner, much like you say, grind as you file.


That's funny stuff, well sort of, but at least I feel better :happy:.
 
I have to eat bread sparingly, and typically only Dave's Killer bread (or homemade). Regular "cheap" bread makes me feel like crap.
I can’t eat regular bread, makes me feel like crap and some of it increases heart rate and can’t sit still, especially subway bread. And pasta is dangerous, usually explosive exit. But our son has been making real sourdough bread and it don’t bother me at all, so nice! I love bread. Afraid he’s going to start charging us though, lol. Haven’t told him but I would be willing to pay for it, a lot :) :sweet:
 
They won't bump the limiter if they free rev after tuning in the wood?, mine do.
You'd have some terribly fat saws if you tuned them that way after porting, not as bad when stock. I don't bump the limiter too often on the bigger saws, but it's normal to on the smaller ones, maybe I need to back them down a bit, wait, those are the auto tune saws:laughing: .
I don't understand what you mean by flat cutting, and by kickback do you mean the bar or are you talking about the tree kicking back.
Auto tune saws are 4 stroking unless under load. At least mine do. Leaning a saw after hitting limiter, it's fine, I just will not be doing it. Flat cutting your trees can allow a kick back of tree. I prefer open face with hinge wood, back cut above face cut.
 
My tree guy took down 2 trees nearby yesterday. The Blue Spruce (leaning against the garage) across the street, and a Red Maple next door.

I was given the wood from the Red Maple, but gave about 1/3 of it to another neighbor (I'm such a nice guy)! He was grateful and helped me with the rest of it … works for me!

The Spruce first: The tree guy is using a MMWS 362 (wonder where he got that from)!
 

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Here is the Red Maple: FYI, the Crane Operator is 72 and has been doing this for 53 years!

My MOFO 462 was making short work of the Red Maple and did most of the work, that saw is so sweet, but I broke out the Blue Beast (Asian 660) for some of the biggest rounds, and to noodle them, just because I had not run it in quite a while.
 

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Here is the Red Maple: FYI, the Crane Operator is 72 and has been doing this for 53 years!

My MOFO 462 was making short work of the Red Maple and did most of the work, that saw is so sweet, but I broke out the Blue Beast (Asian 660) for some of the biggest rounds, and to noodle them, just because I had not run it in quite a while.

Looks like a workout!
 
My tree guy took down 2 trees nearby yesterday. The Blue Spruce (leaning against the garage) across the street, and a Red Maple next door.

I was given the wood from the Red Maple, but gave about 1/3 of it to another neighbor (I'm such a nice guy)! He was grateful and helped me with the rest of it … works for me!

The Spruce first: The tree guy is using a MMWS 362 (wonder where he got that from)!
When you said "Leaning on the garage", that was a gross understatement!
 
Hhhhmmmm. Something not right. The new husky chain I have is night and day better than the oregon chains I have. Honestly I think I just went through two gallons of fuel on my 550 without changing chains. I have probably a dozen of them and they are all great chains. Buy them in the box or have the dealer do them? Just had a guy buy two chains from a dealer and they were supposed to be stihl but they were oregon.

The husky chain i have is 3 years old


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
First time I’ve got a hold of Cherry. Beautiful wood, fella butchered it when he cut it up though. More chunks than anything. Literally drove in a back alley to scrounge from the pile. A first for me......
View attachment 820778View attachment 820779
That looks like some very hard cherry right there!
Hey pull around back in the alley, that's where the stuff is :cool: :lol:.
 
Here is the Red Maple: FYI, the Crane Operator is 72 and has been doing this for 53 years!

My MOFO 462 was making short work of the Red Maple and did most of the work, that saw is so sweet, but I broke out the Blue Beast (Asian 660) for some of the biggest rounds, and to noodle them, just because I had not run it in quite a while.
And the old skyhook just might be the only crane he's ever operated :happybanana:. I ran one just like it and the skyhook on the truck I drove was a 100'er, big ole noodle, like a fishing pole.
Is that maple as dense as it looks, looks very hard. Was that tree struck by lightening?
 
Auto tune saws are 4 stroking unless under load. At least mine do. Leaning a saw after hitting limiter, it's fine, I just will not be doing it. Flat cutting your trees can allow a kick back of tree. I prefer open face with hinge wood, back cut above face cut.
I still don't understand what you mean flat cutting.
Do you think I'm dropping trees without cutting a notch/hinge/backcut, You need to look closer at the pictures, you're looking at the back cut and a cut made below the back cut referred to as a step cut, everything else is conventional. I don't think if you saw it in action you would have a problem with it, its quite safe. It's very similar to trigger release on a leaner, but also similar to a snap cut.
 

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