Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Bit of lean. Stump is about 3' on neighbours side of fence but 90% leans over to our side. Unfortunately the main of those two leaders that stretch out way over our side is coming back up the hill and I need it going down the hill. Not much fun trying to pull it off it's lay when the wood I'm relying on is under so much tension.
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I threw the kitchen sink at it. Before you say anything yes I know stuffed up the soft Dutchman but I realised before I took the picture but found it funny so took the picture anyway. Corrected it (well as much as one can when one stuffs that sort of thing up) afterwards before the backcut.

wrongDutch.jpg

Despite that stuff-up, there was just enough, and i mean JUST enough to get it started and keep it going but interesting how the wood broke before it even thought of pulling forward on the tension side.
fuglyStump.jpg
But it held on long enough to just squeak passed our peach trees which is, especially with my stuff up on the face, quite the miracle. Also didn't break any wires on the fence. Wonders never cease. will clean it all up tomorrow.



*edit* Has anyone got any advice how I could have done this better please? Always keen to learn. If it wasn't our own place, I wouldn't have risked this unless the customer signed something, bc it was on the edge of failing the whole time. ;-)
 
I came across this monster and her family on a recent scrounge. Sure gets the heart pumping when you turn a round over and find this. They're actually pretty harmless.
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Yes, I've had that sort of thing happen.

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Today I rolled a log and disturbed a nest of inchers. Had them mess up my day before, I'm sensitive to their bites. Bullants, meet permethrin dust.

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G'day fellas, I have been suffering pretty severe back pain recently - from carrying the heavy burden of keeping pics up on this thread :laughing: .

I kid, I kid.

Trooped out to the farm again to get after these logs.

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The three with yellowish ends are blue gum, the small one in the middle with the whitish bark and bare at the end is candlebark and the two down the bottom with the fibrous bark (and the rotted middle on the bigger one) are peppermints. The other end of the big peppermint was solid so hopefully there's some good wood in it stihl.

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I cut the smaller peppermint, one of the blue gums, the candlebark and took a few rounds off the other blue gums.

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The 460 got a run today. Had trouble restarting it when warm - before remembering that it is not M-Tronic and you need to flick the switch down one before pulling the cord :buttkick: . Worked better after that.

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After having a (relative) dream run splitting the blue gum rounds last week, I was hopeful that it would continue. Maybe the blue gums at Mitch's are less interlocked and stringy or maybe the Fiskars is the answer, or maybe I'm just getting stronger as I get older :laugh: .

Today burst my bubble.

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Took ages to bash through those rounds. Half dry and hard and a bit stringy so that even once it started to open up I had to chop through every silly strand.

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I found myself hoping that I had a Ranger load from just the blue gum rounds I had already split so I could go home but as they say when you're digging a hole, if you have to measure it, it's not deep enough. So when I was getting disillusioned with splitting, I thought I'll split the candlebark.

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It has pretty salmon coloured heartwood and the gentlest of swings with the Fiskars halved the rounds. A nice way to finish up the load.

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:)
 
If someone overheats them when sharpening they will get blued and it does change the temper, not for the better either. I will watch for a chain that's in rough condition and then do a video filing a few cutters and a few depth gauges and then a video of that chain cutting. Not sure why I've never done a video like that, guess it's like the reason I haven't gotten the chain vise yet lol.
Here's a good video on the principle I use for rakers.

This one shows the husky roller guide which is a great tool, but I wear through them quickly so I prefer the husky raker guide in the above video.
With the roller guide you can completely remove the gullet and the guide will still hold the file against the cutter at the proper height.
Some Aussie filing :).

This is the first time I have ever seen or heard of a "progressive depth guage file guide". You guys do this?
 
So I got banned from YouTube. There will be no more saw videos from jim:wtf:
Bummer James.
Welcome to the club, many of us have had our YouTube accounts "terminated".
Hopefully you can get it back. I just followed the procedure and said thanks when they sent me a message back saying they were reviewing my request. Even though the same computer is most likely doing the review I figured if I put some personal words in there as though I was talking to a person it might help, then two days later I got it back. Unfortunately not everyone has been so lucky :badpc:.
Did you post something about guns or being Christian? You know by now that's not socially acceptable.
It's not, but they have been terminating quite a few accounts for no apparent reason.
There's even a banner ad on there saying that they are doing this.
 
OK. Thats probably oregon chain made for husky then. The new xcut husky chain is fantastic.

I picked up a couple loops of the C83 yesterday at Ebel's. If it's even equal to the EXL I've been running, I'll make the switch because his pricing is tough to beat.
 
Funny never knew that. I worked with a kid who had 10k into his crate engine when he returned from the sand box. PTSD to the point he couldn't function in a normal environment. Had a lot of pride in his ride. Easily rolled all 4 when asked and helluva fast when driven right.

Any way my daughter blew her engine so when it warms up I will become intimately familiar with swapping engines in a Subaru.
 
This is the first time I have ever seen or heard of a "progressive depth guage file guide". You guys do this?
Absolutely.
But just like sharpening a chain you still may need to make adjustments to where the gauge sets things up, since the saw, wood being cut, and cutting styles all play a roll in how a chain should be tuned for you specific conditions.
I have various raker guides I use on smaller stock saws and then more aggressive ones for my larger ported saws, all being 3/8.
I think you have the 550 and the 395?, if both were running a 3/8 chain I would set the rakers lower on the 395 in most conditions, it has way more power and can handle taking a larger chip, it will also be smoother taking a larger chip in very hard wood because it's much heavier. When cutting green wood primarily I will also set my rakers lower using a more aggressive gauge, and I will give the cutters a little more hook. When I run a 20x3/8 bar on my muffler modded 2252(very close in power to your 550) I set the rakers very high using the .025 raker gauge and then take them down another stroke with the file from there, and then I will just the side plate angle from there to allow the cutter to bite a little more without lowering the raker as you can go to far very quickly.
Take the blue pill and just keep using the current depth gauges, or take the red pill and see just how deep the rabbit hole goes, remember, all I'm offering is the truth! :ices_rofl:.
 

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