Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
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Get tons of stuff from Penn State on crop growing but this caught my eye the other day. Maybe I can learn to file a chain. 
https://extension.psu.edu/proper-chainsaw-sharpening-techniques
https://extension.psu.edu/proper-chainsaw-sharpening-techniques
It wouldn’t do it. And yeah blade wouldn’t go high enough. Left stumps high for that reason but still had to push a lot of dirt out from around them to get them out. Also there was a main power line going down the hill next to the tress (and the service line behind them and the house on the other side) so wanted to have more precise control of where they fell.
I'm cleaning off my drive of all the odds and ends. I put a newer chain on and sharpened. The old one was becoming toothless and cut to the right. Someone here mentioned having a saw too that cut to the right on bigger rounds. Thought that was just me. I file every gas refill or sooner if it need it. This chain I had gotten one side shorter than the other and the other side was filed ant a sharper angle. So it's understandable why it cut the way it did.
But the newer chain is even but it's cutting funny. When you start out on a piece of wood and not up against the pawls(?), the chain just glides across the surface like it's not grabbing. Feels like when you put a chain on backwards (not that I've ever done that). When you press down hard it digs in and throws out big chips. If up against the spikes, there's no problem. It cuts fine. Also it won't cut from the underside. Feels like you've hit a rock. And I've sharpened four times. Being newer, don't think I've ever knocked down the depth gauges, but if it's throwing out big chips, isn't it too soon? Not the best shot. Any ideas?
But the newer chain is even but it's cutting funny. When you start out on a piece of wood and not up against the pawls(?), the chain just glides across the surface like it's not grabbing. Feels like when you put a chain on backwards (not that I've ever done that). When you press down hard it digs in and throws out big chips. If up against the spikes, there's no problem. It cuts fine. Also it won't cut from the underside. Feels like you've hit a rock. And I've sharpened four times. Being newer, don't think I've ever knocked down the depth gauges, but if it's throwing out big chips, isn't it too soon? Not the best shot. Any ideas?
Should have used a sloping back cut so it couldn't fall towards the power line
.Nice work
.
If that were my chain I'd start with grinding the huge shark fins(safety bumpers) off it
.Then I would use a progressive raker gauge to set the rakers.
It also looks as though you need to lower your file to increase the hook a bit.
I like to run my chains much tighter than many also, and I tighten it before sharpening a chain on the saw.
It looks as though the bar could use being dressed which involves removing the burr from the sides and truing the surface the chain rides on to 90 degrees in relation to the sides of the bar.
Some pictures of the chain from the top and the other side will help us to diagnose it more accurately, but what I said should keep you busy for a while lol.
Sometimes buying a new chain is quicker, here's some I just snagged up even though I normally run 050, hard to resist for the price.
The parts of the reduced kickback, tie strap bumpers that align with the depth gauges have to be taken down with the depth gauges when sharpening. If they are higher, the chain will cut like the depth gauges are too high: i.e. skipping over the wood without digging in. The bumpers on that chain look inconsistent in the photo. I would also check the heights of each depth gauge ('raker') with a depth gauge measuring tool (any kind) to start. See if that makes a difference.
Philbert
I would try the chain with a different bar first, sounds like your bar is not in good shape.
Thanks everyone, I'm in for a short break. Only have an hour or so left and am trying to get done before the heat really kicks in. Soaked. I'll have more questions later and better photos. That's the only 20" bar (72 DL) that I have.
D
Deleted member 117362
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Don't run your fingers along that bar. It needs attention as said above.
D
Deleted member 117362
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Just a share pic.
Worn bar, or wrong gauge bar, chain tipping over in the groove, is a possible. Tighten the chain, does it then cut?
Hook looks good to me (it's semi chisel chipper, it won't have much hook).
Ps....I know get less about chains then chipper, Philbert, Mustang.... Or just about any of the regular guys here.... I'm probably wrong
Hook looks good to me (it's semi chisel chipper, it won't have much hook).
Ps....I know get less about chains then chipper, Philbert, Mustang.... Or just about any of the regular guys here.... I'm probably wrong
It is semi!, as all the chains are that I have seen with those huge shark fins are
. One of the ways to make a semi chisel chain cut much faster it to add more hook, but you have to watch how much you take the rakers down as it will chatter if you knock them down too much after adding hook.Sometimes those who have fresh eyes can help those who have "trained" eyes.
This is a semi-chisel chain with the safety bumpers cut off, not bad for a little farm ranch saw in black locust.
What's it standing on, a pile of "chips"
.
I'm pretty sure they are all there, they are just difficult to see, that's part of the reason I asked for more pictures.
After Philbert posted that close up, looks like your chain is shot. Was likely installed too tight or run w/o bar lube, the bottom of the chain is worn. It will not cut straight.
D
Deleted member 117362
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Looks like corn chips. Baiting is illegal, I just feed. No Deer hunting for me any longer. Trail cameras have come a long ways, send pictures to your cell phone, can also use them for security.What's it standing on, a pile of "chips"
You been running that 404 chain making corn chips
.Sure, blame it on Philbert . . . .
Working with disaster, non-profit, frugal types for many years, I have cut a lot of wood with chains that are 'shot'; worn bars, worn sprockets; worn everything. Not ideal. And not what the chain or saw manufacturers would recommend. Not necessarily the most efficient way to cut. But still above 'Redneck' improvisations (apologize to any Rednecks who are offended). Also, cut a lot of wood with those dreaded, reduced kickback bumpers.
Bottom line is that you can still cut wood if you pay attention to the basics:
- Get the top and bottom cutting edges sharp;
- Make all cutters the same (angles, lengths, etc.);
- Pay attention to the depth gauges ('rakers').
Some chains will have damage that will have to be removed or repaired. Some bars will need attention. Sprockets need to be replaced eventually. It helps if you know what these things are supposed to look like. That was the whole idea behind my 'Challenge Chain' thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/
BTW @chipper1 , I refer to those STIHL chains, above, as having whale-tail style bumpers; the old Carlton (and some Tri-Link) chains had the shark-fin style bumpers. Completely different aquatic creatures:
Philbert
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