Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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After Philbert posted that close up, looks like your chain is shot. Was likely installed too tight or run w/o bar lube, the bottom of the chain is worn. It will not cut straight.
I've sharpened many that were a lot worse, I'm talking .040" burr on the bottom of the chain :surprised3:.
Although it's certainly not optimal for the best performance. I'll be downstairs tonight, maybe I can get some pics and then do some videos with them for comparison, that would be pretty fun. Maybe I can even do some square ground semi chisel safety chain lol.
He should send that chain to @Philbert for the challenge, I know he'd make it cut straight and true.
 
Got some noodling to do in the morning so I'll get more photos then. What kind do you want to see? Top view? Closeup?
Yes, and a video of you cutting with it :thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpictures:, and videos help too :rock:.
What saw is this on.
I'm pretty sure I have a brand new 24" bar and chain set up with that same chain.
 
Should have used a sloping back cut so it couldn't fall towards the power line :laughing: .
Nice work :numberone:.
Lol. Friend sent me a picture of a 3’ tamarack he found that someone had tried to cut and was left standing, so far....:oops:, had the sloping back cut:rolleyes:.
Thanks, my son did most of it. He does good, quick learner.

Saw shop about 175 miles north of us in area where I grew up (used to cut trees with the owner) started selling some nice dual port muffler covers, decided to try one on the 462. Well made with removable screen and don’t stick out past the oil tank60AA2B72-8E1F-4896-9AEF-37676860E7F0.jpeg6E9A8C2E-C7D9-4554-AE36-3EB6AFD98C83.jpegD9F3E760-229E-4871-ACF9-5303FA0C19F4.jpeg
Don’t know how much it helped but it’s loud, lol.
 
Lol. Friend sent me a picture of a 3’ tamarack he found that someone had tried to cut and was left standing, so far....:oops:, had the sloping back cut:rolleyes:.
Thanks, my son did most of it. He does good, quick learner.

Saw shop about 175 miles north of us in area where I grew up (used to cut trees with the owner) started selling some nice dual port muffler covers, decided to try one on the 462. Well made with removable screen and don’t stick out past the oil tankView attachment 850757View attachment 850758View attachment 850759
Don’t know how much it helped but it’s loud, lol.
Well you know they work cause I see them all over the place lol.

Looks good, how's it sound/run.
My new one doesn't say 462, it does say WCS though ;).
 
I think I've just been infected with CAD. I found a clean looking Stihl 460 Magnum for under $500. What are your thoughts on this saw? How long of a bar can be put on for milling? I've never bought a used chainsaw before, what things do I look for? My first thought is compression. I think I can get a free rental on a gauge from Auto Zone. The saw has a compression release button. I'm guess pull cord without depressing button.
 
I think I've just been infected with CAD. I found a clean looking Stihl 460 Magnum for under $500. What are your thoughts on this saw? How long of a bar can be put on for milling? I've never bought a used chainsaw before, what things do I look for? My first thought is compression. I think I can get a free rental on a gauge from Auto Zone. The saw has a compression release button. I'm guess pull cord without depressing button.
I'm in love with mine. Never milled but Stihl site says up to 32" bar. I drilled two holes in the muffler and retuned as per MustangMike's instructions and it runs strong.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk
 
Looks like my scrounging days are coming to an end or at least cut way down . My daughter got an administrative job with Save a Tree . They also own a mulch company so a lot of their wood goes there but come fall mulch sales plummet and they pay to have wood dumped. So she offered for them to dump hardwood at my house. Didnt get a picture but the first load was dumped. Oak and locust I'm a happy camper.
 
What compression range do I look for?
You want to make sure you don’t get an automotive gauge with long hose or you may not get an accurate reading. They usually read low.

I think good on most stock saws is 150 psi although a few models are a bit lower from the factory. Under 120 is definitely suspect.

If I’m buying a “ready to cut” used saw I go through the following:

Cosmetic: anything cracked or is it missing any bolts/pieces?
Compression: if you hold the saw up by the pull cord how quickly does it go down?
Piston: always ask for a piston/cylinder shot or look yourself. Too many times Ive bought “runs good” saws that had piston or cylinder damage.
Operating:How does it start/run?
Oiling: verify its oiling.
Air filter: if the air filter on an otherwise acceptable saw looks like it’s been through hell, be extra sure to check compression and cylinder.
Bar adjuster: is the bar adjuster operational? If it’s it’s been tweaked figure another 5-15 bucks to get a new one.
Antivibe mounts: are they all tight? Any slop between rear handle/case or front handle/case?
 
You want to make sure you don’t get an automotive gauge with long hose or you may not get an accurate reading. They usually read low.

I think good on most stock saws is 150 psi although a few models are a bit lower from the factory. Under 120 is definitely suspect.

If I’m buying a “ready to cut” used saw I go through the following:

Cosmetic: anything cracked or is it missing any bolts/pieces?
Compression: if you hold the saw up by the pull cord how quickly does it go down?
Piston: always ask for a piston/cylinder shot or look yourself. Too many times Ive bought “runs good” saws that had piston or cylinder damage.
Operating:How does it start/run?
Oiling: verify its oiling.
Air filter: if the air filter on an otherwise acceptable saw looks like it’s been through hell, be extra sure to check compression and cylinder.
Bar adjuster: is the bar adjuster operational? If it’s it’s been tweaked figure another 5-15 bucks to get a new one.
Antivibe mounts: are they all tight? Any slop between rear handle/case or front handle/case?
To check the cylinder, you have to remove the muffler, right? I think this person is a home owner and wouldn't be able to provide cylinder pics.
 
To check the cylinder, you have to remove the muffler, right?
Yes. You may get pushback from owners who don’t know or people who do know and want to hide it. Usually the former. If they don’t allow then use your best judgement. A good compression test will reveal any major issues.

Some people who don’t know better assume removing the muffler is a major thing akin to pulling the piston.
 
Looks like my scrounging days are coming to an end or at least cut way down . My daughter got an administrative job with Save a Tree . They also own a mulch company so a lot of their wood goes there but come fall mulch sales plummet and they pay to have wood dumped. So she offered for them to dump hardwood at my house. Didnt get a picture but the first load was dumped. Oak and locust I'm a happy camper.
And I thought I had it easy with only a 2 mile drive. Maybe you could have them cut it up to length too?
 
You want to make sure you don’t get an automotive gauge with long hose or you may not get an accurate reading. They usually read low.

I think good on most stock saws is 150 psi although a few models are a bit lower from the factory. Under 120 is definitely suspect.

Did not know that , I've always used the automotive gauge.
I got the 10-20 shed full up so I put the canvas top on the 10-20 car port from harbor freight. I take the top down in the winter and just tarp over next years wood.
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MS 460s are VG saws, I usually don't go over 28" with B+C on them.

Hang the power head by the pull cord and it should fall very slowly with regular compression intervals.

Pull the muffler and make sure the piston and inside cylinder are not scored, run it an make sure it cuts well and idles well.

If it does all that, it is worth the $.

My Red Neck mod is to drill two 1/4" holes (vertically) on the high right side of the muffler cover, then remove the carb limiters and tune it a bit richer (start with one full turn out on the low and 1 + 1/8 out on the Hi), then tune by ear. It will pick up noticeably, and will run cooler and last longer.

I do the same muff mod on a 462. On both saws, remove the cover before drilling and clean before re-installing.

Next performance steps are a timing advance and BGD.
 
To check the cylinder, you have to remove the muffler, right? I think this person is a home owner and wouldn't be able to provide cylinder pics.

You want one pic of the piston up and one of the cylinder with the piston down.

This is what you don't want it to look like:
 

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The real way to check the piston is to remove it and compare the intake and exhaust sides to make sure the intake side is not excessively worn. However, it is not practical to do this before purchasing the saw.

If the intake side of the piston is worn, it likely will not idle smoothly, as the piston skirt seals the intake port. The intake skirt on a piston is usually the first internal part to wear on a chainsaw.
 
The 460s are great bucking saws, and they will last forever. Personal I don't like the way they handle as well as a husky or a dolmar, but I don't limb with a 70cc saw as much as with a 50 so its not as big of a deal. What I really dislike about the earlier stihls is the rubber mounts, way more vibes. Many husky guys dog on them because they have crappy air filtration, which they do, but even so they run forever(did I say that yet :)).
Compression on the 460s I've had was 165- just under 180 in stock form, which is way higher than 3 series huskys, but many of the early huskys had higher compression.
If the saw looks real good and pops on the 2 or 3rd pull and fires up on the next one, just buy it. When you get it home you can pop the cover off and look at the muffler, then you can check the piston at least once a month to make sure its okay whether you run it or not like so many who hang on the forums seem to do :laugh:(I'm not saying that about anyone in this thread, but if it applies...). I honestly believe more people have caused damage pulling mufflers and loosening carbon up by looking at pistons, the good thing is the larger stihls are very easy to do and you can make sure the carbon falls out of the muffler base and the cover. That being said many also get overly concerned about a carbon mark on a piston which doesn't hardly effect anything including the compression. Many guys who build saws will tell you about tossing pistons in the beginning because they had a carbon smear on them and replacing them with new ones, when they didn't even need replaced at all. I've also see guys get down on someone in the trading post for a carbon smear which is funny because I've ran saws like Mike was talking about(being worn on the intake side) that the piston skirt was like the edge of a knife it was so worn(it should be a flat edge on the bottom of the skirt), and you wouldn't know anything about the skirt wear except a little loss in power.
Hope it's in great shape and you get it.
 

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