Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[Kodiak Kid]

Keep splitting with the chainsaw and you'll have half a dozen loads of noodles to take pictures of!

Take those shreading's, or "noodle's" as a lot of you guys like to call them. Then pack, and I mean pack them tight!!! In a five gallon bucket. Then pour about half a gallon of used motor oil on top of it. Put a lid on the bucket. Let sit for 24 hours so the saw waste soaks and wicks up the oil. You now have the best fire starter in the world IMOP! If your firewood is completely cured dry, no kindling should be nessasary. The shavings must be completely and totally dry though to properly soak up the used oil. This is key! Just a thought for the use of your saw waste. An Alaskan Sour Dough showed me that years ago. I've been using the same method for fire starter now for years. I really like it. In my opinion. It's the best fire starter as far as I'm concerned.

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

 

[sean donato]

Run the 400 anymore? Put 4 tanks thru mine Sunday. Mostly noodling a big mulberry.

I got a tank and a half through it, then had to work. This weekend I'll get to run it pretty hard. I did order the 460r oiler for it. It's stingy lol. Hoping it comes in by the weekend. Did well on some white oak and beach I had sitting in the pile. Have a big pile of logs put back to clean up yet, before I bring home everything from my dad's place I saved.

 

[MustangMike]

I like sharp square file chain ... I think the sharper the chain the less kick back I get. A dull chain will "grab" and give you more kick back.

Plus, in clean wood, square file just cuts faster, and you can use the exact same grind for noodling or milling.

When I cut that Black Locust and Hard Maple last week it was the first major time this year I used the saws, and my left hand cramped (like it never had before) on the way home. Guess I was making sure I had a good grip and was keeping the saws safely away!

 

[H-Ranch]

Keep splitting with the chainsaw and you'll have half a dozen loads of noodles to take pictures of!

You ain't kiddin'!

I used 2 big garbage bags and gave away 3 bags of pine noodles for chicken bedding and have 7 more bags waiting for a home. Burned at least 10 wheelbarrow loads of various wood noodles last week and have probably 12 more on the fire pile now. Plus whatever has been raked in, stomped in, mowed over, blown away, and dumped in the woods. There was bark and chips mixed in a few loads. But yeah, LOTS of noodles!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I like sharp square file chain ... I think the sharper the chain the less kick back I get. A dull chain will "grab" and give you more kick back.

Plus, in clean wood, square file just cuts faster, and you can use the exact same grind for noodling or milling.

When I cut that Black Locust and Hard Maple last week it was the first major time this year I used the saws, and my left hand cramped (like it never had before) on the way home. Guess I was making sure I had a good grip and was keeping the saws safely away!

I agree and disagree. The way I see it. There are two kinds of kick back.

One: "Tip kick back."
This as we all know to well. Is due to a bar tip hitting an object from the wrong place on the tips circumstance while the chain is spinning. The more horse power, faster the rpm, and shorter the bar. The more severe the tip gets thrown back at you! A dull chain definitely dose not help prevent tip kick back.

Two: "Top bar rail kick back"
This is more common with bigger saws and longer bars while bucking or limbing with the top rail of the bar. Also know as "back bucking".
The chain is running forward on the top rail. Without the operators proper and strong hand hold on the power head and/or proper chain speed. While back bucking or back limbing. The cutters on the chain can instantly grab hold of the wood. The result being either slowing the chain speed, or stopping the chain completely. While also pushing the power head back at you instantly and exposing more bar out of the wood back at you at the same time! As the bar comes out of the buck it now is being released of the load on the chain cutters less and less because there are fewer and fewer cutters in the wood as the saw is pushing back out at you. This is one of and probably the most common causes of chain saw lacerations across the top of a person's thigh! Even if you let off the throttle! It can be to late because it can happen instantly. This is more likely to happen with the sharper and more aggressive saw chains like Full skip Square grind and such. DO NOT! Get me wrong. It can happen with any size saw running any type of chain. Hope my $0.02 helps!

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

 

[bob kern]

Got a couple areas cleaned up (so more logs can be dumped of course...)
View attachment 992141View attachment 992142View attachment 992143View attachment 992144

Just for you Hr

 

[svk]

Is this saw even worth picking up . Seamed to have compression since it kicked back on the recoil . View attachment 992380
There was also this large chain sharpener I can get if it’s worth it as I’m going back tomorrow for a wood lathe with about 50 different tools View attachment 992381View attachment 992382

Yes, 46cc was the second largest engine they ever put in those things.

 

[svk]

Hi guys. Crazy wind and rain over the last 36 hours here. Amazingly we only had a power blip but a lot of people have lost power at least one time and for several hours at a time. My son is out hauling brush for a neighbor and after dinner I need to go and work on cleaning the garage so I can dig out my lawnmower. With the recent rains and high temps the grass has been growing like crazy.

 

[sean donato]

I agree and disagree. The way I see it. There are two kinds of kick back.

One: "Tip kick back."
This as we all know to well. Is due to a bar tip hitting an object from the wrong place on the tips circumstance while the chain is spinning. The more horse power, faster the rpm, and shorter the bar. The more severe the tip gets thrown back at you! A dull chain definitely dose not help prevent tip kick back.

Two: "Top bar rail kick back"
This is more common with bigger saws and longer bars while bucking or limbing with the top rail of the bar. Also know as "back bucking".
The chain is running forward on the top rail. Without the operators proper and strong hand hold on the power head and/or proper chain speed. While buck bucking or back limbing. The cutters on the chain can instantly grab hold of the wood. The result being either slowing the chain speed, or stopping the chain completely. While also pushing the power head back at you instantly and exposing more bar out of the wood back at you at the same time! As the bar comes out of the buck it now is being released of the load on the chain cutters less and less because there are fewer and fewer cutters in the wood as the saw is pushing back out at you. This is one of and probably the most common causes of chain saw lacerations across the top of a person's thigh! Even if you let off the throttle! It can be to late because it can happen instantly. This is more likely to happen with the sharper and more aggressive saw chains like Full skip Square grind and such. DO NOT! Get me wrong. It can happen with any size saw running any type of chain. Hope my $0.02 helps!

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

We call the latter push back. I can agree a more aggressive chain can push back, but honestly it's more of a technique issue then anything. A well set up round chain will grab and push just as much as a square or full chisel chain. Actually I would think the chain that cuts more efficiently would be less prone to push back.
I'd hazard to say, if we get sloppy it doesn't matter much what style or grind of chain you have on the saw. I got a scar on my calf from an ms180. Didn't look up cutting bamboo off. Branch hung up in the top of it.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

You ain't kiddin'!

I used 2 big garbage bags and gave away 3 bags of pine noodles for chicken bedding and have 7 more bags waiting for a home. Burned at least 10 wheelbarrow loads of various wood noodles last week and have probably 12 more on the fire pile now. Plus whatever has been raked in, stomped in, mowed over, blown away, and dumped in the woods. There was bark and chips mixed in a few loads. But yeah, LOTS of noodles!

We call the latter push back. I can agree a more aggressive chain can push back, but honestly it's more of a technique issue then anything. A well set up round chain will grab and push just as much as a square or full chisel chain. Actually I would think the chain that cuts more efficiently would be less prone to push back.
I'd hazard to say, if we get sloppy it doesn't matter much what style or grind of chain you have on the saw. I got a scar on my calf from an ms180. Didn't look up cutting bamboo off. Branch hung up in the top of it.

Yes, technique, as well as fatigue and experience all play a part when it comes to any type of kick back in my opinion.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

SR

 

[SS396driver]

Yes, 46cc was the second largest engine they ever put in those things.

I’ll grab it tomorrow morning when I pick up the other stuff I bought.

Oh and the tiller works great didn’t even tire me out the least little bit.
I bought the tractor from there last week only problem with it when she hits a bump the engine sputters and backfires . It’s because she doesn’t wheigh enough to keep the switch on the seat engaged . My fat butt in the seat it runs great

I get tired watching here sometimes but I get over

 

[chipper1]

That is the last of the four huge old maples that created a canopy over the two acres on that side of the creek. Lots and lots of firewood. My friend Dion has put up 5 years of firewood for the stove at his Dad's place and I have more wood that I can burn in my campfires for years.

Nice, great firewood for sure.

 

[chipper1]

Headed to the neighbors to help out with 3 black locust . They'll be coming to my place as he gets them limbed and bucked into logs.



Then I did a bunch of running around, and since it cooled down I went out and grabbed a bucked of locust from the other neighbors . I plan on getting quite a bit of wood bucked and split tomorrow, I'd like to get at least one full row worth in the woodshed while it's cooler. Maybe I can have it finished up before this weekend.

 

[Philbert]

I agree and disagree. The way I see it. There are two kinds of kick back.

One: "Tip kick back."
This as we all know to well. Is due to a bar tip hitting an object from the wrong place on the tips circumstance while the chain is spinning. The more horse power, faster the rpm, and shorter the bar. The more severe the tip gets thrown back at you! A dull chain definitely dose not help prevent tip kick back.

Two: "Top bar rail kick back"
This is more common with bigger saws and longer bars while bucking or limbing with the top rail of the bar. Also know as "back bucking".
The chain is running forward on the top rail. Without the operators proper and strong hand hold on the power head and/or proper chain speed. While buck bucking or back limbing. The cutters on the chain can instantly grab hold of the wood. The result being either slowing the chain speed, or stopping the chain completely. While also pushing the power head back at you instantly and exposing more bar out of the wood back at you at the same time! As the bar comes out of the buck it now is being released of the load on the chain cutters less and less because there are fewer and fewer cutters in the wood as the saw is pushing back out at you. This is one of and probably the most common causes of chain saw lacerations across the top of a person's thigh! Even if you let off the throttle! It can be to late because it can happen instantly. This is more likely to happen with the sharper and more aggressive saw chains like Full skip Square grind and such. DO NOT! Get me wrong. It can happen with any size saw running any type of chain. Hope my $0.02 helps!

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

This is what I teach: ‘push-back’, ‘pull-in’, and ‘’kickback’.


Then, we talk about all the potential ‘binds’!

Philbert

 

[chipper1]

I’ll grab it tomorrow morning when I pick up the other stuff I bought.

Oh and the tiller works great didn’t even tire me out the least little bit. View attachment 992446
I bought the tractor from there last week only problem with it when she hits a bump the engine sputters and backfires . It’s because she doesn’t wheigh enough to keep the switch on the seat engaged . My fat butt in the seat it runs great View attachment 992448

I get tired watching here sometimes but I get over

Nice score man, the tiller and mower too .

 

[chipper1]

This is what I teach: ‘pushback’, ‘pull n’, and ‘’kickback’.
View attachment 992468

Then, we talk about all the potential ‘binds’!

Philbert

Good thing it's necessary quite often, I use the top of the bar a lot.
If you watch chain saw fail videos, you see many dramatic examples of these when people are on ladders .

 

[chipper1]

So kinda looks like this is about the only place much happens on this forum, eh?

No, but we certainly keep this one moving.
What you doing over here, nothing going on over in the "other place" .
Hope you're doing well bud .

 

[chipper1]

SR

Howdy Rob.
Didn't see any swap white today, but I had some swamp butt today, and I'm white.
Did you stay in the AC today, or did you get out and go for a swim too . Ready for the second half of the week .

 

[svk]

Well got the riding lawnmower dug out tonight. Still need to fix the solenoid on it as I have needed to jump the posts since the last spring. Otherwise works great. I have to mow my lawn at work tomorrow plus a friends house and then my sons need to get moving on their lawn customers here soon. I was able to scrounge up a couple of used lawnmowers for them to use in their business as well because my last lawnmower died last year.