Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[wudpirat]

Ditto on the release agent, even then sometimes the're hard to get apart.
I've used Brownells ,Marine-Tex even JB Weld to bed a rifle, they all work.
What you want is that the action returns to the exact same positon after each shot, Action and couple inches of barrel work, free float the rest of the bbl.
When you tigthen down the guard screws, no stressing of the action.
Ever bed a Ruger No,1 ? Bolt actions are cake. Even a M1 Garrand is easy.
Oh, don't forget the release agent or you'll have what the Bench Rest boys call a glue in.

 

[MustangMike]

I've never done a #1, but I read about how to one, and a Garand would challenge me. With the Ruger M-77s I always bed an inch or two of the barrel, and usually run a piece (or two) of duct tape where I want the bedding to stop. Gives it a nice clean stop.

Yea, those actions stick sometimes, got to remove it at just the right time. Almost ruined a stock one time when they would not separate. Then I realized you are supposed to remove the bolts first!

I always wanted to get a #1 custom chambered in 348 Winchester (or 35 Winchester, since I could never find a '95 chambered for it). I do have a Browning remake '95 in 06. My Uncle always hunted with a 95 in 30-40 Krag. The 30-40 is the parent cartridge for a 35 Winchester, but the shoulder is moved forward so it has a larger powder capacity.

Those new Ruger Americans shoot great w/o being bedded. Will out shoot most rifles that cost twice as much.

 

[svk]

I've never done a #1, but I read about how to one, and a Garand would challenge me. With the Ruger M-77s I always bed an inch or two of the barrel, and usually run a piece (or two) of duct tape where I want the bedding to stop. Gives it a nice clean stop.

Yea, those actions stick sometimes, got to remove it at just the right time. Almost ruined a stock one time when they would not separate. Then I realized you are supposed to remove the bolts first!

I always wanted to get a #1 custom chambered in 348 Winchester (or 35 Winchester, since I could never find a '95 chambered for it). I do have a Browning remake '95 in 06. My Uncle always hunted with a 95 in 30-40 Krag. The 30-40 is the parent cartridge for a 35 Winchester, but the shoulder is moved forward so it has a larger powder capacity.

Those new Ruger Americans shoot great w/o being bedded. Will out shoot most rifles that cost twice as much.

I owned a Ruger #3 in 30-40. Despite having a short barrel it was one of the most accurate rifles that I've ever owned. Trigger was set perfectly.

 

[MustangMike]

Short barrel guns are usually more accurate, long barrels give you more velocity, but often "whip" more.

And the 30-40, and the old 32-40 were known to be accurate. They are similar in caliber and case capacity to a 308.

 

[stihly dan]

Short barrel guns are usually more accurate, long barrels give you more velocity, but often "whip" more.

And the 30-40, and the old 32-40 were known to be accurate. They are similar in caliber and case capacity to a 308.

Thanks, learn something everyday. I would have thought the opposite.

 

[MustangMike]

Most people do, but the shorter & stouter the more accurate it usually is.

I think the impression stems back to the black powder days, the long, heavy barrels held steadier offhand, and therefore seemed to be more accurate.

My 26" Octagon barrel Mdl 94 is one of my favorite guns to shoot off hand. It just holds very steady. I used to load it with 100 gr bullets and shoot wood chucks with it. When my eyes were younger, it was deadly on them out past 100 yds.

 

[tla100]

I picked up the Ruger American in 30-06, always wanted a -06, got the bi-pod, scope mounted and my cousins husband wanted to unload a Remington 700 in -06. So now got 2. But the Ruger flexed so bad with the bi-pod on it, touching the barrel easily. Kind of surprised on the reviews I read. That 700 action is sooo much smoother than the Ruger also.

I just got 1 more piece to my AR 9mm. Finally got a magwell adapter from Hahn off gunbroker. Got some UZI mags ordered that will have to be modified and will be ready to roll. Dang Colt mags for that gun are about $40 a pop. Too many blasted gun projects that need to be done. Got a couple PPS-43 builds on hold too.

Got a stock from Boyds for a K31 that needs to be final fitted and bedded too. Ever since this dang firewood bug got started, takes too much time away from gun stuff.

Oh, got a new clutch spring and counter weights for my Polaris 800 that needs to get put on.

 

[MustangMike]

If I were using a bipod on the Ruger I would stiffen the front of the stock (with some bedding epoxy). You are correct that it is flexible up front. But my bolt if very smooth, and I like the 3 lug, and it shoots very well. I'm sure you can say the same for the 700, one of the most accurate actions out there.

Also, my accuracy improved quite a bit with neck sized handloads. The chamber may not be as tight as I would like for shooting factory stuff.

 

[nomad_archer]

I have never been a huge rem fan there rifles don't do much for me and they charge more for a wood stock. I still like wood over synthetic. I just like the way wood stocked guns look. My favorite rifle is a newer savage in 300 win and it is more accurate than I am capable of without being bedded with factory and handloads. I think my next rifle will be a browning xbolt in 7mm-08. The brownings have a slightly shorty LOP than most and fit me a little better than most guns. I haven't been able to find any negative reviews about the guns accuracy so sounds like a winner to me. I am a lefty as well so I am limited on bolt guns and very rarely do I find one on the shelf. Everything is usually special order.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

I think the Ruger American is a great rifle, but I think the action on the Savage Axis is a little smoother, and the rifle just feels better in my hand. My next new rifle will be an Axis.

That being said, I have an older Savage 116 in 7mm mag, and Dad's even older Ruger M77 (pre-MK II) in .270, and the Ruger is the better made and better shooting rifle, hands down. The Savage has a heavy 26" barrel, and should be a tack driver, but I just can't seem to keep it zeroed in. I suspect the cheap Swift scope is partially to blame, and I am planning on replacing it this summer. The Ruger hits where I'm aiming, every time, and has put a lot of venison in the freezer over the years.

 

[nomad_archer]

Unless finances are an issue jump in the the savage 110 or 114 lines. 100% improvement in the smoothness of the action, way way way better trigger and overall a better fit and finish versus the axis. But an axis can be had in the 300-400 range i believe and the 110/114 series rifles are in the 650-750 range. But you get what you pay for.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

Yeah, if/when I get one, it will be in .243 or similar small caliber, and probably will have a muddy girl stock. Oh, and it won't be for my use primarily. My 4 year old has already told me that she wants to hunt deer with me, when she is bigger.

I have a Savage 99 in .243, but I don't want to drag it through the woods and make a mess of it. That is why I am thinking of getting the Axis.

If I was buying off of my wish list, I would probably get something configured to be a scout rifle, either the Ruger Gunsite Scout, or a similar Savage Model 10 variant.

 

[Ambull01]

There must be something up with the makita's? I've Had the hot bar and chain twice, replaced the bar and all was well. Bar looked good no obvious defects. I have never needed to replace a bar on any of my other saws.

I'm still using the stock bar. The only time the bar and chain heated up was with the Husqvarna b&c oil and when I tried to run straight Canola oil. The Husqvarna stuff was too thick and I'm guessing the Canola was too thin.

 

[MustangMike]

Some good news: After one company said the were not interested, and another stated they would not even go to look at just one log, I found another tree guy who went and looked at our Hard Maple log this morning (over 29" at the base and over 24' long).

He stated that it is definitely worth more as a log than as firewood, and he will pick it up the next time he goes to the mill and split it with us.

I'm very pleased about this. Not only did this work out well for this project, but now I know who I can work with in the future!

 

[svk]

Some good news: After one company said the were not interested, and another stated they would not even go to look at just one log, I found another tree guy who went and looked at our Hard Maple log this morning (over 29" at the base and over 24' long).

He stated that it is definitely worth more as a log than as firewood, and he will pick it up the next time he goes to the mill and split it with us.

I'm very pleased about this. Not only did this work out well for this project, but now I know who I can work with in the future!

Just curious what $ value do you expect to get out of that log? Reason why I am asking is I will be taking a nice sized maple or two down for the camp this summer and might go that route if it is worth their while.

 

[nomad_archer]

Yeah, if/when I get one, it will be in .243 or similar small caliber, and probably will have a muddy girl stock. Oh, and it won't be for my use primarily. My 4 year old has already told me that she wants to hunt deer with me, when she is bigger.

I have a Savage 99 in .243, but I don't want to drag it through the woods and make a mess of it. That is why I am thinking of getting the Axis.

If I was buying off of my wish list, I would probably get something configured to be a scout rifle, either the Ruger Gunsite Scout, or a similar Savage Model 10 variant.

Ahhhh. That makes sense. Get the .243 in a youth configuration for her.

 

[MustangMike]

He did not want to give me a "hard" price in advance, he just assured me it was worth more than firewood, and that is all I needed to hear. I trust this guy, I have known him informally for a while, and he is local.

Unless you have real "volume", the trick will be to find someone willing to pick them up and combine them with his logs, and give you a fair deal.

I would check if any of your local guys are willing to work with you. The value will depend on diameter, length, and how clear the wood it. This one had obviously once been a "woods" tree, and had a nice, long straight trunk.

 

[stihly dan]

A cord is 128 cubic ft loosely stacked.what is loosely? Is this loose or tight.

 

[nomad_archer]

A little too loose. Tighten it up a bit.

 

[MustangMike]

Don't know where you got "loosely stacked" from, here is the definition from Wikopedia: I've added the bolding.

"A cord is the amount of wood that, when "ranked and well stowed" (arranged so pieces are aligned, parallel, touching and compact), occupies a volume of 128 cubic feet (3.62 m3).[1] This corresponds to a well stacked woodpile 4 feet (122 cm) high, 8 feet (244 cm) long, and 4 feet (122 cm) deep; or any other arrangement of linear measurements that yields the same volume."